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getting rid of check engine for o2

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coupe_nasty

10+ Year Contributor
266
16
Oct 15, 2011
Easton, Maryland
So i wanna run a new exhaust setup but dont wanna have o2 sensor problems. I currently have a 3inch dp, stock cat, and 2.5inch exhaust. Just got the car and its currently throwing a code for both sensors.

I would like to run full 3 inch thermal exhaust and remove the cat. Is there any way to do this and have no o2 sensor problems?

Do i NEED a ported o2 sensor housing or something? Also where i live has no emissions so that is a plus for removing things. Just dont wanna waste my money on stuff i dont need.
 
everything seems to point to getting this esmlink stuff LOL. must be worth the money. i have no tuning on the car yet, as i just bought it like 2 weeks ago. I know nothing about tuning. i guess i will need to send them my ecu or something to get it socket'd as i dont think that it currently is.
 
I would. They check out your ecus condition when they do. I love mine! I think its the best thing I have bought for my car so far.
You don't have any O2 indication? A wideband? If not look into getting a wideband as well.
 
AEM or LC1. Now that I said that, everyone is going to start arguing over which to use. Just do your research and pick one.
 
No you need to replace it with a working o2 sensor or with ecmlink and wideband you can do a simulated narrowband. But a cel for the front o2 is probably not caused by a modified exhaust / downpipe its probably a bad sensor and should be replaced. The rear o2 cel can be caused by modifying your exhaust system but it will just throw a cel and not affect how the engine runs like the front one will.
 
If you get ecmlink then you can replace the front o2 with the wideband, and turn on narrowband simulation. But if you really want a wideband and don't want to have to buy the stock o2 also the lc1 and aem have narrowband output you just have to do 1 extra wire and set the wb up for it. For instince I have the aem in my front o2 because I didn't want to buy a stock o2 and I just had to turn the dial to p4 and wire it to the ecu and it works fine plus I'll have my link next week and I can use it to narrowband simulate if I want to change the dial back to p0.
 
my cat is actually removed, and my check engine light is now on...would this link thing fix the CEL?

ECMLink is not compatible with 420a powered DSM's so no.

AEM or LC1. Now that I said that, everyone is going to start arguing over which to use. Just do your research and pick one.

Or they'll just say to use the MTX-1. LOL
 
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