Getting an Auto into the 13s

[SteveR6]

Ok, what the hell do I need to do to my car to get it into the 13s. I currently have hard upper and lower IC pipes w/ a 1G BOV, no boost leaks btw, 14B, running 15 pounds of boost, Apex downpipe, no cat, N1 exhaust. My best time so far has been a 15 flat which I feel is pretty slow.

 

[SteveR6]

Looks like I'm buying a datalogger, off to the classifieds I go!

 

[SteveR6]

Any thoughts on how much of an ET decrease a shift kit will give? I'm thinking it would be good for a couple tenths being as my car shifts SLOW. I also thought of something else that may be causing some problems but in my mind it wouldn't be causing a major loss of power. My valve cover is cracked in a couple places and leaks a bit of oil, plus it's broke around where the PCV valve screws in which I currently have JB welded in place. Do you think this would affect it any?

 

[janks85]

Also to steveR6 what boost are you launching at cause your saying you are hitting 15 flats with mods. But I just brought my auto GST and last night i hit 15.4 at 14psi bone stock except for a cold air and a boost controller and i launched at 10psi. A shift kit is also a good idea it does show a big difference the only problem ive seen with shift kits are they are ruff in traffic situations. they pull hard when switching gears even at slow speeds. Some people dont like the feel BUT they do show a significant difference in shifts along with getting a manual valve body. IPT has a manual Valve Body with translab shift kit for i believe around 350 or so

chris

 

[SteveR6]

You're running 14 I'm running 15, I'd say with my basic mods you're 15.4 to my 15 sounds about right. I'm still playing with the launch, unfortunately Quaker City is having a gamblers race this weekend so I think we're going to friendship park which is a crappy 1/8 mile local track but it will do for what I need it for this weekend. We went there last weekend and I launched under full boost which created a good 4 seconds or so of tire spin, then I launched under 10-12 somewhere and the same thing but the duration was shoterned to like 2 seconds . I'm going to pay more attention this time (we only got two runs) and get this launch locked down and see if my times go down signinfigantly. What do you guys think my car "should" "in theory" be running??

 

[vaboys2ndgen]

im AWD and completely stock i ran 9.683 in 1/8..

 

[chanley talon]

IS this car fwd ? Just wondering?

 

[vaboys2ndgen]

GST .. yes fwd

 

[SteveR6]

Turns out my buddy has a valve cover and I alredy have new gaskets so that will be going on this weekend as well. Ordered the datalogger but I doubt it gets here by Friday. I'm thinking if I can get control of the wheelspin at the track Friday I should break into the high 14s. I'm spinning ALOT when I watch the video so we'll see. I just hate leaving under low boost because of the lag, it makes it feel like you're going to run so much slower of a time.

 

[Smokin80]

dont judge your launches by wheelspin, judge them by 60 foot times. I would think with a good launch on a fwd you should be able to get at least a 2.2 60 foot. on good tires a 2.0 should be doable. I know that a little wheel spin will likely yield the best 60 foot. Just on the edge of bogging.

smokin

 

[vaboys2ndgen]

could always save up for some slicks for the front that would help out ALOT

2.0 60' fwd is pretty good

 

[SteveR6]

Ok, this is the 1/8 I ran last weekend.
60 foot - 2.433
330 - 6.409
1/8 - 9.73
MPH - 73.85

 

[SteveR6]

Now at Quaker which is a 1/4 mile 2 weekends ago I ran
60 - 2.233
330 - 6.327
1/8 - 9.676
MPH - 73.52
1000 - 12.491
1/4 - 15.037
MPH - 91.37

 

[Smokin80]

Now at Quaker which is a 1/4 mile 2 weekends ago I ran
60 - 2.233
330 - 6.327
1/8 - 9.676
MPH - 73.52
1000 - 12.491
1/4 - 15.037
MPH - 91.37

2.2 60 foot is def not bad for a fwd. On drag radials my buddys honda runs 2.05's and that helped him a lot. The rest will come with more POWER!!

Good luck
Garrett

 

[SteveR6]

Before I order the SAFC II do you guys really think it's going to make that much of a difference? Or should I be spending that 200-300 dollars elsewhere???

 

[Dorifto]

From personal experience, I'd spend a few bucks making sure the car's fresh and maintained. Sounds like you've got that taken care of though, so on to the next step.

Are you needing fuel correction with your setup? I can't figure off-hand any specific settings, but if you do opt for the SAFC, definitely spend some time either tuning with a wideband, or some dyno runs. It's well worth the expense, this I can tell you from experience.

15.03 @ 91 is pretty good, but I keep wanting to say there's some left in your car, and wheelspin might be the culprit. It probably goes without saying you're feathering the throttle and not ham-fisting the car around. Tires might be the best place to spend your $200-$300, if only for the front.

My $0.02.

--Dave-O

 

[SteveR6]

I was kind of thinking that as well, I have goodyear RS-As on there now and they're not the best for traction. And yes I'm trying to ease into it as best I can, but being as I just started going to the track I'm sure there's some ET improvement to be had by me getting better in touch with the car. But back to the SAFC, I just ordered a datalogger, are you telling me I can't tune with the logger and SAFC properly?? If that's the case I'm going to be pretty pissed about the logger purchase.

 

[Smokin80]

I was kind of thinking that as well, I have goodyear RS-As on there now and they're not the best for traction. And yes I'm trying to ease into it as best I can, but being as I just started going to the track I'm sure there's some ET improvement to be had by me getting better in touch with the car. But back to the SAFC, I just ordered a datalogger, are you telling me I can't tune with the logger and SAFC properly?? If that's the case I'm going to be pretty pissed about the logger purchase.

The logger is not going to give you wideband o2 data. It will give you timing and knock and front o2 voltage and probably some other stuff too. You can tune to an extent with a logger but without wideband data all you have to go by is knock and timing...To a VERY small extent you can use the front 02. I hate to break it to ya but getting a wideband is a big part of tuning(200 to 300 dollars i would say) This is the reason i just got dsmlink in the beginning. It was 560 bucks and that gives you logging, tuning(way better than safc tuning), wideband logging(need the sensor still)...AND all the other featurs such as nlts(you are auto so useless for you), rev limit changes, maf compensation, tps, dtc's, and tons of other little things. All that for only a couple hundred more than safc and a logger. Not to mention you can make bigger injectors idle and drive like stock in about 4 seconds worth of tuning. Cant do that with an safc. The 560bucks is no small investment(plus you need an eprom ecu) but in the long run it is the best money i have spent yet. I went from 13.9 to a 13.3 in the quarter by changing nothing but dsmlink. Tuning got me a full half second in the quarter.

 

[Smokin80]

i guess it all come down to the old saying

YOU GOTTA PAY TO PLAY

You can only have 2 of the 3...Cheap, Fast, Reliable

 

[jimmyjfnf]

Had a 97 GST Auto a couple years ago and was running high 13's with a best of 13.5 in the 1/4 mile. I had injen intake, big16g turbo, homemake upper i/c piping, 550cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, 2.5 downpipe to complete 3" exhaust, no CAT, SAFC, running racegas with 17lbs of boost. I had my stock side mount, just cleaned it and put in new ngk plugs and wires. I still have my time slip around here somewhere if you want my info. BTW, I powerbraked at the line until I had my boost at about 5-6lbs and then let'er go.

Hope this helps.

 

[SteveR6]

Well I already ordered the logger, so I'm just going to order the SAFC II. I should be able to get a pretty decent tune with the logger and SAFC correct? I know it's not wideband but it's better than letting the ecu do it, and I'll be bale to get the knock out right?