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gears off enough to bend valves?? **pic**

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you prob should'nt of screwed with it......i'm thinking what has happened is this: since you have a motor made up of several different years of parts, the timing cover with the marks on it was off of the wrong year, they changed these from like the 90-91 models to 92 and up...it might even be like 90 then 91 and up is different...anyway it will make your crank timing seem off if you mix and match these covers when it's actually on.....i have a bulletin around here somewhere about this exact thing, prob have damage now if you did'nt before...........just a thought...... :dsm:
 
well the thing is i changed the tensioner so i pulled the cover off and timed the crank with the timing mark on the actual block/oil cover so it should be right...i hope :D ive double checked my marks like 8 times trying to figure out whats wrong :)
 
ok.... i just found the bulletin and the prob is with the plate behind the crank (the metal one) the notch for timing in them is in different places, one part number puts the timing notch at 2 o'clock and the other puts the mark at 11 o'clock.....sounds pretty close to what you might have going on...the part number is md131241 for the 89-92 and md188501 for the 92.5 and up so you might want to see if you can see andy pn on the plate ???......again just a thought :dsm:
 
BISHILVR said:
ok.... i just found the bulletin and the prob is with the plate behind the crank (the metal one) the notch for timing in them is in different places, one part number puts the timing notch at 2 o'clock and the other puts the mark at 11 o'clock.....sounds pretty close to what you might have going on...the part number is md131241 for the 89-92 and md188501 for the 92.5 and up so you might want to see if you can see andy pn on the plate ???......again just a thought :dsm:
wow thanks for the heads up :thumb: ...ill definatly look into that this week
 
here's another idea....set the crank KEYWAY at the 9:00 position that will be tdc no matter what year the engine is from...then see if the NOTCH matches up to tdc on the timing cover............ :dsm:
 
i think to save myself some stress, im just going to stick a hanger in the plug hole so when its tdc ill check my cams again to see if they line up...if so im gonna guess my cas went bad for no reason, is there a way to check it?
 
I concur about using the coat hanger method so you can cross check your lower Timing Cover marks when you do - You need some idea of what's going on down there to be able to set Base Timing - Check that the CAS shaft is oriented correctly, I start with it in the middle of the adjustment area & set Base immediately when it fires off.

Good Thread! Good info about Lower Timing Covers!
 
ok so i did it, all timing marks are perfect and im 100% positive its at tdc. base timing is set but it still runs rough...im starting to think it not to serious though because at first when i start it up it idles fine, other than the bad isc crap... but then ill take it down the street and as soon as it starts getting a little airflow it dogs out and misses. THEN at idle it starts to run rough and i noticed it ran smoothe for 2 seconds and then went back to rough...its almost like something is loose but ive checked everything possible...i tried zeroing out my maft and my low trim was something like 138 OMG
 
BUCK said:
Sounds like a Boost Leak now - So I take it you have manually verified the TDC marks are correct on your Lower Timing Cover?
yeah i know it sounded like it to me too..but i check up to 15psi and its not leaking anywhere. And yeah i manually checked the marks with the height of the hanger...im stumped :confused:
 
What is the compression reading now that the valves are closed when they should be ?
 
ok guys, what are the chances i have bent valves? remember it ran good till i set it to tdc again...ive gone over everything i can possibly think of...i even changed the plugs and fuel filter today....and put my stock MAS on and nothing has worked...i checked my coil and everything....im pissed off right now because i just found our the local track is all done, freshly repaved and they are having free racing this weekend...all i want to do is run this bastard to see what it will do....i do have another head but its been sitting for about a year and a half...will the cam bearings be shot and need replaced? i dont know if it would be worth my time to swap heads this week and have it not help....gimme some advice PLEASE :cry:
 
BUCK said:
I say bent valves - swap the Head, I'd be more worried about the Lifters & Valve Stem Seals in the other Head than the Cam bearings...
think this would even be worth my time to do? id hate to swap heads and ruin something else :p
 
Dude with these Compression Numbers it's no waste of time...
DevilSperm said:
LOL well....... i used the gauge that always reads a little lower and #1 was like 50 and #4 was like 110

think this would even be worth my time to do? id hate to swap heads and ruin something else :p
 
I'm having low compression #'s too :thumbdown . ( see my post " I think I burnt some valves" ) I was misfiring on cyl. #3 . I've removed my head and it looks ok. I did a leak down test before and no air came out of my oil cap or dipstick (rings are OK) so I'm swapping heads. Have you done a leak down test?
 
i got my head off and the pistons look fine, untouched....and the valves look good too....tomorrow ill stick the other head on and see what happens...ill be super pissed if it still runs like ass :thumb: LOL
 
ill let this thread die now, i swapped heads and that did nothing...i got my friend to let me borrow his CAS and sure as shit thats what the problem was, so now my car is up and running again....til later today when he steals the cas back... wheres the best place to get a new one? i checked partznet.com but i couldnt find it on there
 
yeppers...i got mine to work though so its all good, dumb mistake when i swapped heads, looks like i bent valves after all... powertrain control, i didnt look there :D
 
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