Gas in the spark plug holes

[TSIshwdwn]

I installed a vent to atmosphere blow off valve without a MAFT was running fine for a couple weeks I thought I got by with it until I drove it hard. now it doesn't wanna start. it cranks but doesn't want turn over. checked the spark plugs all 4 are soaked in gas. no coolant in oil dipstick. I hope it's not the timing I had it done earlier this year I'm assuming everything is still lined up straight.

So I'm wondering aside from the headgasket and timing job is there any other solutions that I should look into? rI'm just thinking about gettting the car running back up again and do a compression test to see what's the damage after because right now there's a puddle of gas in all the cylinders.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Sounds like you may have flooded them, take them out let them dry, or replace them cheap enough and fire it up. Check the coolant temp sensor could be bad too, causing them to flood.

 

[delta448]

Pull the negative battery terminal to reset the fuel trims and check the CTS with a DMM. The fuel trims will probably keep on gradually compounding this issue as long as you keep running a MAS with the BOV unrecirculated.

 

[TSIshwdwn]

So I went and bought new spark plugs today and rented a compression tester. I'll get back with an update to see how it went. How bad do you think the reading is gonna be off with the spark plug well still drowned in gas.

 

[pauleyman]

spark plug well

What is the spark plug well? If the tip of the plug is wet it's in the cylinder. IF the body is wet then gas is what I would call the spark plug well and you have bigger problems. Sounds like you have no spark and the plugs are wet because the fuel isn't igniting. Pull one and check.

 

[TSIshwdwn]

Sorry for not getting back sooner but I finally got the battery working again after it discharged on me a few times. I got a bigger problem though, I did the compression test and it says 110 112 110 112 all the way across. So I think this is where my race build start.

 

[lasthope05]

Sorry for not getting back sooner but I finally got the battery working again after it discharged on me a few times. I got a bigger problem though, I did the compression test and it says 110 112 110 112 all the way across. So I think this is where my race build start.

Put oil in each cylinders and let it sit for a bit and recheck once the oil has had a chance to work down. The gas could of washed the cylinder walls down and skewed your results. The compression will go up at first becuase of the oil but later if you redo the test again and compression is still up your motor should be fine.

 

[BogusSVO]

Put oil in each cylinders and let it sit for a bit and recheck once the oil has had a chance to work down. The gas could of washed the cylinder walls down and skewed your results.

They are dished pistons, all the oil will do is sit in the dish top of the piston.

Need to try to squirt it on the cylinder wall, then spin it over to spread the oil. then run the test.

Better yet, run a leak down test.

 

[Tyeler18]

Sorry for not getting back sooner but I finally got the battery working again after it discharged on me a few times. I got a bigger problem though, I did the compression test and it says 110 112 110 112 all the way across. So I think this is where my race build start.

That's definitely not the cause of your no start. 121 is the service limit, however, the motor isn't "toast" at that. I've personally run them down to 90psi and they still ran strong.

 

[delta448]

If the plugs are soaked in gas, then that's why it doesn't start; not because your compression is 110. The most common reasons for no start with flooding that might apply to your situation would probably be:

• a bad CTS -making the ECU think the engine's extremely cold
• low battery voltage -causing a weak or sluggish starter, weak spark and slow injector response
• maxed out fuel trims -can be caused by a VTA'd BOV used with a stock MAS
• a bad IAT/BARO reading from the MAS
• using bigger injectors without compensation

Do you have a datalogger? Viewing sensor outputs is an easy way to eliminate them from being the problem.

Yes, running rich can wash out the rings and probably has contributed to your poor compression test results, but those results are not enough to keep the engine from firing.

 

[TSIshwdwn]

Hey guys thanks for everyone's input. I'm stumped with the car not starting and stalling after driving it around the block.
I don't know the compression reading prior before the car died, it only got tested after I had the issue. So it's possible that I've ran the car like that already.
I would like to diagnose the car before I tear the head apart. I want to avoid spending.
Now lets say the head gasket is might only have a little damage/leak but still holds up. I've also only looked at the dowel pin and timing marks on cam gear and they're dead on. If I ran rich and turned up the boost what do you think happened with my dsm why is it acting like it's toasted? I'm thinking of changing injectors,mas, boost leak maybe? Is it gonna change a thing? What will.
can I get top best suggestions so I don't get lost in buying parts that's not gonna solve my issue.
Thanks again for the help.

 

[delta448]

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Assuming you have an aftermarket boost gauge:
5 dollar boost leak tester

If you suspect the head gasket, do a leak-down test.

Along with the cams, you need to check the timing mark on the crank.

Your plugs are fouled and wet, clean and dry them and check the gap. Or install new ones, they're cheap.

 

[Tyeler18]

You can do a leak down but I'm 99% sure it'll be a waste of your time. That's a pretty average compression for any higher mileage dsm I've ever bought/worked on and the fact that they're all relatively close makes it highly unlikely that there's an issue.