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funky boost leak test results

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TurboStutr

15+ Year Contributor
135
2
May 16, 2004
Gibsonton, Florida
I've been doing a boost leak test on my car and can't seem to figure out what's going on. First it was leaking from the little breather filter that I have on the valve cover. Then I plugged that up and then it was leaking from the oil dipstick. I recently replaced the PVC valve with another OEM one from the dealer so I don't think that is the problem. And I just got a Greddy oil catch can to replace the breather, because it's getting clogged up with oil(but I haven't installed it yet). Any ideas on what could be going on and some possible fixes? I know I'm getting excessive crankcase pressure, I just don't know how.
 
wow i've been out for a while, my computer picked up a nasty virus and had to be reformatted, not fun. but anyways, i put a new PCV valve in and it still smokes at idle and that big cloud still comes out when i pull away from a stop, it doesnt smoke at all any other time.

i did a dry compression test and the results are(from left to right when looking at the engine):
155
158
150
152

everything seems to be in check, would i still need to do a wet test??

and i have to get another fitting for the boost leak tests cause i one i have now wont stay put. i'll be back with those results later.
 
this is my first time dealing with more than bolt-ons, so sorry if my questions seem newbie-ish...but the good compression means the rings are ok and i dont have to worry about them, right? and since i have the new PCV, all thats left is checking/replacing the valve seals? i've got a Haynes and i read that i can do this without pulling the head off, but it still seems like quite a job. i'm gonna need to borrow a valvespring compressor from a friend i'll get to it.
 
That would be correct but to replace valve seals with the head in the car, you will need a special tool called "miller's tool", do a search on it. Also, replacing them with the head attached will not give you the opportunity to inspec the valve guides which can also be the source of the crankcase leak as well as the valve seals.
 
oldman said:
That would be correct but to replace valve seals with the head in the car, you will need a special tool called "miller's tool", do a search on it. Also, replacing them with the head attached will not give you the opportunity to inspec the valve guides which can also be the source of the crankcase leak as well as the valve seals.
sheesh, i'm gonna get every other possibility out of the way before i tackle this job...if i can narrow it down to the seals/guides, i might as well pull the head and get it freshened up while it gets checked out, to eliminate any sneaky problems that might come up. thanks for bearing with me and helping me out oldman
 
I don't want take away from the point of this thread but it has got me curious about doing a boost leak test. I attempted one last week and wasn't able to hold more than 10-12 psi and it sounded like air was travelling through the exhaust manifold into the turbo and out. I didn't know about checking the tailpipe so I will do that.
Turning the engine 30 degress from TDC is also something I should do?
 
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