Posting up how I wired and configured my FuelTech FT550 with the 4 Cylinder A + B universal harness and FT Smart Coils for anyone’s reference. I’m writing this out mostly in the order of the booklet for the harness (https://files.fueltech.net/manuals/4_cylinder_Harness.pdf - starting at page 14), and I’ll include any other relevant information I can that may be helpful.
Just for clarification: I’m intending to make this available for troubleshooting purposes and to potentially be expanded upon. I’m not claiming to know everything about FuelTech, or trying to tell you how to tune your car. Rather, I hope this may help you get closer to having it ready to be tuned by one of the great guys in the community who’ve really got that part down.
As BarnBuiltDreams would say: “There are multiple ways to skin a cat,” and I’m aware that others probably run their cars under different settings and with varying wiring configurations. I know some people prefer to wire an unterminated harness from scratch, but when I first did mine, that option wasn’t on the table. I didn’t understand enough about wiring, and it just wasn’t going to happen at the time. The Universal A + B Harness configuration worked perfectly fine for me, and still does to this day, so I’m hoping this may make it more accessible for others who may be kind of like me and could use a point of reference.
1. TPS Sensor
The TPS connector that comes on the universal harness is plug & play for a K24 motor. It needs to be swapped to be compatible with our cars. In my case, I just chopped it off, stripped each wire, and spliced on our stock 2G TPS sensor connector. One wire remains unused, as it is a 3 pin connector and the stock one is 4 pin. I’d use a TPS pinning diagram to verify which wire that is.
2. Water & Air Temp Sensors
Pretty sure I had to swap the water temp sensor in my car to a sensor FuelTech sells for the connector to be compatible, but I could be misremembering. If it goes right on, great. I was already on speed density, and the Intake Air Temp sensor I had added for that was compatible with IAT connector on the FT harness.
3. Oil, Fuel, & Wastegate Pressure
Swapped my oil pressure sensor to FuelTech’s 0-150 pressure sensor to be compatible. I swapped the gauge face of my FueLab Fuel Pressure Regulator for another 0-150 pressure sensor, but this one from Low Dollar Motorsports. I don’t run a sensor for wastegate pressure.
4. Injectors
My FIC 1650 injectors were plug & play. Very easy swap. The tricky thing with the injectors is correctly scaling and triggering them.
Scaling the Fuel Injectors
So this can be kind of complicated and may involve a bit math depending on which injectors you’re using. This part requires the data sheet that comes with each set. Using FIC’s, I had to convert cc per minute values to lb/h to come up with the correct “Primary total flow” value. Then there’s deadtimes.
I’m pretty sure there are a couple different ways to do this. I input the injector deadtime value at 14v into the “Primary injectors deadtime” field.
Then, under the “Battery voltage compensation” table, I treated that 14v value as “0,” and calculated where the other values needed to be in relation to it.
Triggering the Injectors in Sequential
If you’re trying to run Sequential Injection with the Universal A + B Harness, you NEED to reconfigure your Outputs as such:
Blue output #7: Fuel Injector cyl. #03 - Primary
Blue output #8: Fuel Injector cyl. #04 - Primary
If you don’t do this, only injectors 1 and 2 will spray. When the A & B harnesses are used in conjunction and you configure the map for sequential injection, the FuelTech unit automatically looks to outputs 7 and 8 for fuel injectors 3 and 4. I chased my tail on this for a little while. Also, in Semi-Sequential mode, I had my “Primary outputs” set to “4” instead of “2.”
5. Wideband Connector
I run the Bosch sensor sold by FuelTech, which plugs straight into the WB-O2 connector on the universal harness.
6. Coil Connectors
I mounted the FT Smart Coils to an Ohm Racing valve cover plate. I got my plug wires from them too. Low profile, and looks clean. Hood clearance may be an issue. I had to remove the heat shield on mine so it wouldn’t rub and damage the two left side coils.
The tricky thing about the coils is making sure they’re being triggered correctly. If you’re running your ignition in Wasted Spark, they automatically trigger together. On an FT450, you can only run them in Wasted Spark anyway, but it needs to be configured as “Wasted Spark - double coil.” However when using the universal A + B harnesses on the FT550 and trying to run the ignition as “Sequential - individual coils / COP (coil on plug)”, you NEED to reconfigure your Outputs as such:
Gray output #5: Cylinder #03 ignition
Gray output #6: Cylinder #04 ignition
If you don’t do this, only coils 1 and 2 will fire. This is part of the chasing my own tail I mentioned earlier, as it’s the same problem you’ll stumble into with the fuel injectors.
7. Gearshift Sensor
I disregarded this one. I set up Gear Change Detection in FTManager by inputting the gear ratios (available at http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/transgearratios.html) to calculate what gear I’m in. You can set it up to calculate by RPM drop, or wheel speed if you have a sensor for that.
8. Crank Hall
Trigger Setup and Wiring
I now run the Kiggly 12-1 tooth crank trigger, but I did previously run off just a 1G Green Top CAS with a Yoshifab 24 tooth trigger wheel. I did have sync issues from time to time, and the car just seems to drive way more smoothly on the missing tooth setup now. Nonetheless, I want to show how both were set up on my car.
Our cars use Hall Effect sensors. I ignored the “Crank VR” wires and left them capped off.
The 3 pin “Crank Hall” wires go to a 2G cam angle sensor connector mounted on a billet plate provided by Kiggly facing the 12-1 trigger wheel behind the timing cover. I recommend referring to a diagram for the cam sensor, because the first one I used had different wire colors than the one I’m using now. I mention this because I prefer to solder pigtails rather than terminate connectors, and I just assumed matching the colors would make it work. I was sorely mistaken, and it was a big headache.
When I was using the Yoshifab 24 tooth trigger wheel, I shared the positive and negative wires with those of the cam sensor connector, and the white (signal) wire went to the Crank Signal pin on the 4 pin 1G Greentop CAS.
RPM Signal Settings
On the Kiggly 12-1, I set the Crank Index to 75 degrees to get it to fire up. After using a timing light and calibrating the ignition, I properly set it at 70 degrees flat on my car. It’s important to use a timing light in order to verify that your car’s mechanical timing is in sync with its ignition timing. Sensor edge is “Rising” on my car.
I had my car running at a crank index of 191 degrees on the Yoshifab trigger wheel before swapping to Kiggly. Sensor edge was “Falling.”
9. Cam Hall
If running the Kiggly trigger and a 2Gb CAS housing, it’s wired the same as I described for the Kiggly trigger, as it uses the same sensor. Standard 3 pin connector: power, signal, ground. However, there can be a bit of nuance here.
I have a 2G 7 bolt 4G63, and I originally had the 2Gb non-adjustable CAS on the car. I chopped off the larger tooth as commonly suggested, but I wasn’t using the Kiggly trigger at the time, which is required for that CAS to work.
So I switched to a 1G Green Top CAS, and swapped the 4-1 trigger disk that comes in it for a Yoshifab 24 tooth trigger disk. This allowed me to run the car entirely from the CAS rather than disassembling the timing components to install the Kiggly trigger. That prospect was too overwhelming for me at the time, so the 24 tooth option was my best bet.
After eventually deciding it was necessary and being convinced to go for the Kiggly trigger, I swapped back to the 4-1 tooth disc in the CAS, blocked off the larger tooth hole with aluminum tape, and called it a day.
Cam Sync Signal Settings
To configure the Cam Sync, you need to fire up the car in “Diagnostic - Random Hall,” in which the FuelTech unit randomly selects a tooth to try and start the car with. If running the 12-1 trigger, you can select the option to use the cam sync sensor for synchronization only.
When the car fires up, you know you’re close enough, and you can input this value to the “Cam Sync position angle.” Then switch the sensor type from “Diagnostic - Random Hall” to “Hall / VR with pull-up.”
My sensor edge is “Falling,” with a Window filter detection angle of 370 degrees.
10. 2 Step
I routed the 2 step wire to one of my clutch switch wires, and the other clutch switch wire I grounded to the unibody. Difficult picture to get, but not as hard as you may think to do if you haven’t before.
11. MAP
I ran a vacuum hose from my intake manifold through the firewall to the back of my ECU to utilize its built in 10 bar MAP sensor. It’s arguably the most efficient way to utilize this system. Don’t feel like disassembling, but here’s my dash.
12. Power & Relays
The Universal Harness comes with 40 amp relays that have integrated fuses. These make it super easy to safely supply power to your essentials, and can be easily tucked away or mounted to a custom fuse & relay board. The coils, injectors, wideband, and ECU itself are all sufficiently configured as it is shipped from FuelTech. Even if you’re using a PDM (like me) to power some of your accessories, I would leave alone the ones that are already preconfigured to work. You’d just be making more work for yourself, and I ended up backtracking myself after having to replace my “A” part of the harness following an electrical short likely due to me trying to supply power to everything from the PDM.
13. Extra Outputs
Anyway, the universal harness comes with a connector you can manually pin to extend wires to your remaining needed accessories. Depending on what it is, it is likely you’ll need to connect a relay in between.
Starter
For the starter, I used Blue Output #5, and extended that wire to an input on my PDM (an ECUMaster PMU16). I ran another wire from one of the PDM’s outputs straight to the starter’s connecting wire, and configured it to activate when it sees the signal from the FT550.
Fuel Pump
I used Blue output #06, also going to an input on the PDM that triggers an output that runs to my Walbro in tank. Now I also have a relay between the PDM and the fuel pump since I switched from a Wally 255 to a Wally 525.
Fans
I used Blue output #03, going to: (you guessed it), the PDM! Which triggers two separate outputs to kick on the SPAL fans. As mentioned, this can be done using just standard relays instead.
Mac Valve
I used Blue output #4, configured as “Generic Duty Cycle.” The Mac valve also needs a 12v source to its other wire. If memory serves, it doesn’t matter which wire is 12v and which one is signal. They are interchangeable.
Properly configure Gear Change Detection, and you’ll unlock the ability to use Boost by Gear as well.
14. Extra Inputs
You have plenty of options for inputs, but here are what I chose to do with mine.
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
I wired my stock 3 pin VSS, and initially did it wrong. I used the fuel pressure sensor’s pins, chopping off its connector to repurpose the pins for vehicle speed. Problem is: the fuel pressure sensor’s pin uses a 5v power source, and the VSS needs 12v. Just an anecdote so you can avoid my mistake.
As mentioned before, I’m now running a fuel pressure sensor, and I decided to do something different for the wheel speed sensor. I pinned one of the extra input wires, and ran it back through the firewall of my car, along with the spare 12v wire and ground wire that are on that part of the loom. I spliced them respectively to a VSS connector, and plugged it right in. That’s it. Hard to snap a picture of, but it’s located on top of the transmission near where it meets the engine.
On the Inputs page, I identified that wire as “Wheel speed front right.”
On the “Front wheel speed” page, I selected five teeth for the sensor, and input my tire specs.
Then you can add that gauge to your dashboard, and it should work.
Fuel Level
Okay, to this day I don’t fully understand how this is SUPPOSED to work, and it’s on my list to figure out. Nonetheless, I just went for it when I first set it up, and it’s been relatively accurate for the past year.
I pinned one of the extra input wires, and ran it directly to the fuel level gauge’s wire behind the dash. I was really low on gas when I set it up, so on the respective table I set zero to the voltage it was reading at the time. Then when I filled up, I input that voltage, and interpolated values for in between.
I only really refer to this gauge when the car is actually on, since the voltage to everything flows different when the car is off. I only share this input because I figure I might as well. I’m open to any suggestions as to how to improve its accuracy.
15. Charging the Alternator
I myself switched over to a self-exciting alternator after failing to figure this out, but I’ve been told that you get the alternator to charge by wiring the “S” pin to 12v, and the “L” pin to 12v except with an incandescent bulb in between. It has to be incandescent in order to work.
16. IAC Valve (Bonus)
I currently run without an Idle Actuator, but I did at one point run a Honda IAC valve that seemed to work fine. It takes two wires: one yellow output (no relay needed), and the other just needs to be grounded. I plugged the top ports, ran a vacuum hose from the barbed fitting on the left side to the intake manifold, and vented the barbed fitting on the right to atmosphere.
And I think that’s pretty much it. Again, there are many ways to do all this, and probably better and cleaner jobs done than I’ve shown here, but my setup does work and currently supports my compound turbo 2G build. Hope it helps. Merry DSM’ing.
Just for clarification: I’m intending to make this available for troubleshooting purposes and to potentially be expanded upon. I’m not claiming to know everything about FuelTech, or trying to tell you how to tune your car. Rather, I hope this may help you get closer to having it ready to be tuned by one of the great guys in the community who’ve really got that part down.
As BarnBuiltDreams would say: “There are multiple ways to skin a cat,” and I’m aware that others probably run their cars under different settings and with varying wiring configurations. I know some people prefer to wire an unterminated harness from scratch, but when I first did mine, that option wasn’t on the table. I didn’t understand enough about wiring, and it just wasn’t going to happen at the time. The Universal A + B Harness configuration worked perfectly fine for me, and still does to this day, so I’m hoping this may make it more accessible for others who may be kind of like me and could use a point of reference.
1. TPS Sensor
The TPS connector that comes on the universal harness is plug & play for a K24 motor. It needs to be swapped to be compatible with our cars. In my case, I just chopped it off, stripped each wire, and spliced on our stock 2G TPS sensor connector. One wire remains unused, as it is a 3 pin connector and the stock one is 4 pin. I’d use a TPS pinning diagram to verify which wire that is.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
2. Water & Air Temp Sensors
Pretty sure I had to swap the water temp sensor in my car to a sensor FuelTech sells for the connector to be compatible, but I could be misremembering. If it goes right on, great. I was already on speed density, and the Intake Air Temp sensor I had added for that was compatible with IAT connector on the FT harness.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
3. Oil, Fuel, & Wastegate Pressure
Swapped my oil pressure sensor to FuelTech’s 0-150 pressure sensor to be compatible. I swapped the gauge face of my FueLab Fuel Pressure Regulator for another 0-150 pressure sensor, but this one from Low Dollar Motorsports. I don’t run a sensor for wastegate pressure.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
4. Injectors
My FIC 1650 injectors were plug & play. Very easy swap. The tricky thing with the injectors is correctly scaling and triggering them.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Scaling the Fuel Injectors
So this can be kind of complicated and may involve a bit math depending on which injectors you’re using. This part requires the data sheet that comes with each set. Using FIC’s, I had to convert cc per minute values to lb/h to come up with the correct “Primary total flow” value. Then there’s deadtimes.
I’m pretty sure there are a couple different ways to do this. I input the injector deadtime value at 14v into the “Primary injectors deadtime” field.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Then, under the “Battery voltage compensation” table, I treated that 14v value as “0,” and calculated where the other values needed to be in relation to it.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Triggering the Injectors in Sequential
If you’re trying to run Sequential Injection with the Universal A + B Harness, you NEED to reconfigure your Outputs as such:
Blue output #7: Fuel Injector cyl. #03 - Primary
Blue output #8: Fuel Injector cyl. #04 - Primary
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
If you don’t do this, only injectors 1 and 2 will spray. When the A & B harnesses are used in conjunction and you configure the map for sequential injection, the FuelTech unit automatically looks to outputs 7 and 8 for fuel injectors 3 and 4. I chased my tail on this for a little while. Also, in Semi-Sequential mode, I had my “Primary outputs” set to “4” instead of “2.”
5. Wideband Connector
I run the Bosch sensor sold by FuelTech, which plugs straight into the WB-O2 connector on the universal harness.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
6. Coil Connectors
I mounted the FT Smart Coils to an Ohm Racing valve cover plate. I got my plug wires from them too. Low profile, and looks clean. Hood clearance may be an issue. I had to remove the heat shield on mine so it wouldn’t rub and damage the two left side coils.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
The tricky thing about the coils is making sure they’re being triggered correctly. If you’re running your ignition in Wasted Spark, they automatically trigger together. On an FT450, you can only run them in Wasted Spark anyway, but it needs to be configured as “Wasted Spark - double coil.” However when using the universal A + B harnesses on the FT550 and trying to run the ignition as “Sequential - individual coils / COP (coil on plug)”, you NEED to reconfigure your Outputs as such:
Gray output #5: Cylinder #03 ignition
Gray output #6: Cylinder #04 ignition
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
If you don’t do this, only coils 1 and 2 will fire. This is part of the chasing my own tail I mentioned earlier, as it’s the same problem you’ll stumble into with the fuel injectors.
7. Gearshift Sensor
I disregarded this one. I set up Gear Change Detection in FTManager by inputting the gear ratios (available at http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/transgearratios.html) to calculate what gear I’m in. You can set it up to calculate by RPM drop, or wheel speed if you have a sensor for that.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
8. Crank Hall
Trigger Setup and Wiring
I now run the Kiggly 12-1 tooth crank trigger, but I did previously run off just a 1G Green Top CAS with a Yoshifab 24 tooth trigger wheel. I did have sync issues from time to time, and the car just seems to drive way more smoothly on the missing tooth setup now. Nonetheless, I want to show how both were set up on my car.
Our cars use Hall Effect sensors. I ignored the “Crank VR” wires and left them capped off.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
The 3 pin “Crank Hall” wires go to a 2G cam angle sensor connector mounted on a billet plate provided by Kiggly facing the 12-1 trigger wheel behind the timing cover. I recommend referring to a diagram for the cam sensor, because the first one I used had different wire colors than the one I’m using now. I mention this because I prefer to solder pigtails rather than terminate connectors, and I just assumed matching the colors would make it work. I was sorely mistaken, and it was a big headache.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
When I was using the Yoshifab 24 tooth trigger wheel, I shared the positive and negative wires with those of the cam sensor connector, and the white (signal) wire went to the Crank Signal pin on the 4 pin 1G Greentop CAS.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
RPM Signal Settings
On the Kiggly 12-1, I set the Crank Index to 75 degrees to get it to fire up. After using a timing light and calibrating the ignition, I properly set it at 70 degrees flat on my car. It’s important to use a timing light in order to verify that your car’s mechanical timing is in sync with its ignition timing. Sensor edge is “Rising” on my car.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I had my car running at a crank index of 191 degrees on the Yoshifab trigger wheel before swapping to Kiggly. Sensor edge was “Falling.”
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
9. Cam Hall
If running the Kiggly trigger and a 2Gb CAS housing, it’s wired the same as I described for the Kiggly trigger, as it uses the same sensor. Standard 3 pin connector: power, signal, ground. However, there can be a bit of nuance here.
I have a 2G 7 bolt 4G63, and I originally had the 2Gb non-adjustable CAS on the car. I chopped off the larger tooth as commonly suggested, but I wasn’t using the Kiggly trigger at the time, which is required for that CAS to work.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
So I switched to a 1G Green Top CAS, and swapped the 4-1 trigger disk that comes in it for a Yoshifab 24 tooth trigger disk. This allowed me to run the car entirely from the CAS rather than disassembling the timing components to install the Kiggly trigger. That prospect was too overwhelming for me at the time, so the 24 tooth option was my best bet.
After eventually deciding it was necessary and being convinced to go for the Kiggly trigger, I swapped back to the 4-1 tooth disc in the CAS, blocked off the larger tooth hole with aluminum tape, and called it a day.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Cam Sync Signal Settings
To configure the Cam Sync, you need to fire up the car in “Diagnostic - Random Hall,” in which the FuelTech unit randomly selects a tooth to try and start the car with. If running the 12-1 trigger, you can select the option to use the cam sync sensor for synchronization only.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
When the car fires up, you know you’re close enough, and you can input this value to the “Cam Sync position angle.” Then switch the sensor type from “Diagnostic - Random Hall” to “Hall / VR with pull-up.”
My sensor edge is “Falling,” with a Window filter detection angle of 370 degrees.
10. 2 Step
I routed the 2 step wire to one of my clutch switch wires, and the other clutch switch wire I grounded to the unibody. Difficult picture to get, but not as hard as you may think to do if you haven’t before.
11. MAP
I ran a vacuum hose from my intake manifold through the firewall to the back of my ECU to utilize its built in 10 bar MAP sensor. It’s arguably the most efficient way to utilize this system. Don’t feel like disassembling, but here’s my dash.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
12. Power & Relays
The Universal Harness comes with 40 amp relays that have integrated fuses. These make it super easy to safely supply power to your essentials, and can be easily tucked away or mounted to a custom fuse & relay board. The coils, injectors, wideband, and ECU itself are all sufficiently configured as it is shipped from FuelTech. Even if you’re using a PDM (like me) to power some of your accessories, I would leave alone the ones that are already preconfigured to work. You’d just be making more work for yourself, and I ended up backtracking myself after having to replace my “A” part of the harness following an electrical short likely due to me trying to supply power to everything from the PDM.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
13. Extra Outputs
Anyway, the universal harness comes with a connector you can manually pin to extend wires to your remaining needed accessories. Depending on what it is, it is likely you’ll need to connect a relay in between.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Starter
For the starter, I used Blue Output #5, and extended that wire to an input on my PDM (an ECUMaster PMU16). I ran another wire from one of the PDM’s outputs straight to the starter’s connecting wire, and configured it to activate when it sees the signal from the FT550.
Fuel Pump
I used Blue output #06, also going to an input on the PDM that triggers an output that runs to my Walbro in tank. Now I also have a relay between the PDM and the fuel pump since I switched from a Wally 255 to a Wally 525.
Fans
I used Blue output #03, going to: (you guessed it), the PDM! Which triggers two separate outputs to kick on the SPAL fans. As mentioned, this can be done using just standard relays instead.
Mac Valve
I used Blue output #4, configured as “Generic Duty Cycle.” The Mac valve also needs a 12v source to its other wire. If memory serves, it doesn’t matter which wire is 12v and which one is signal. They are interchangeable.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Properly configure Gear Change Detection, and you’ll unlock the ability to use Boost by Gear as well.
14. Extra Inputs
You have plenty of options for inputs, but here are what I chose to do with mine.
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
I wired my stock 3 pin VSS, and initially did it wrong. I used the fuel pressure sensor’s pins, chopping off its connector to repurpose the pins for vehicle speed. Problem is: the fuel pressure sensor’s pin uses a 5v power source, and the VSS needs 12v. Just an anecdote so you can avoid my mistake.
As mentioned before, I’m now running a fuel pressure sensor, and I decided to do something different for the wheel speed sensor. I pinned one of the extra input wires, and ran it back through the firewall of my car, along with the spare 12v wire and ground wire that are on that part of the loom. I spliced them respectively to a VSS connector, and plugged it right in. That’s it. Hard to snap a picture of, but it’s located on top of the transmission near where it meets the engine.
On the Inputs page, I identified that wire as “Wheel speed front right.”
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
On the “Front wheel speed” page, I selected five teeth for the sensor, and input my tire specs.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Then you can add that gauge to your dashboard, and it should work.
Fuel Level
Okay, to this day I don’t fully understand how this is SUPPOSED to work, and it’s on my list to figure out. Nonetheless, I just went for it when I first set it up, and it’s been relatively accurate for the past year.
I pinned one of the extra input wires, and ran it directly to the fuel level gauge’s wire behind the dash. I was really low on gas when I set it up, so on the respective table I set zero to the voltage it was reading at the time. Then when I filled up, I input that voltage, and interpolated values for in between.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I only really refer to this gauge when the car is actually on, since the voltage to everything flows different when the car is off. I only share this input because I figure I might as well. I’m open to any suggestions as to how to improve its accuracy.
15. Charging the Alternator
I myself switched over to a self-exciting alternator after failing to figure this out, but I’ve been told that you get the alternator to charge by wiring the “S” pin to 12v, and the “L” pin to 12v except with an incandescent bulb in between. It has to be incandescent in order to work.
16. IAC Valve (Bonus)
I currently run without an Idle Actuator, but I did at one point run a Honda IAC valve that seemed to work fine. It takes two wires: one yellow output (no relay needed), and the other just needs to be grounded. I plugged the top ports, ran a vacuum hose from the barbed fitting on the left side to the intake manifold, and vented the barbed fitting on the right to atmosphere.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
And I think that’s pretty much it. Again, there are many ways to do all this, and probably better and cleaner jobs done than I’ve shown here, but my setup does work and currently supports my compound turbo 2G build. Hope it helps. Merry DSM’ing.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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