Front Speakers Just Stop

[Taylor3180]

I have an Alpine CDA-9857 cd player. As I was going down the road with the volume not turned up high at all, when all of a sudden the only speakers that are pounding are my subs. So I turn off the deck and turn the deck back on and my rears come back and start working but my front two no longer do. What can possible be the problem?

 

[grnchevyz]

Couple questions....only the subs are powered by an amp or are the door speakers as well? How long has this been running fine until it crapped out?

Now for some troubleshooting. The easiest thing to do is this, get a AA battery, 2 8" wire leads and some electrical tape. Strip 1/2" of one end of both wires, place one on the + and one on the - side of the battery and secure with the tape. Now, remove the radio, unplug it and bare a little off of the gray/gray-black and white/white-black wires coming from the plug. Touch the + side of the battery to the gray and the - side to the gray-black. You should hear static coming from the PASSENGER side front speaker as you tap the - wire on the gray-black wire. The same goes for the white/white-black wires but they will static up the DRIVER side front speaker. If you do NOT hear any static they you have either a broken connection OR blown speakers. If you hear static, then your head unit has a defective output.

Now here's the kicker, if you have a factory amplifier, found under the passenger front seat, do the procedure above BUT at the amplifier instead than the radio itself. The speaker wires will be in 4 twisted pairs. Test them all to ensure proper connectivity. If you hear static while testing at the amplifier, and no sound when the radio is on, change the amplifier as it has most likely blown output circuitry.

Hope this helps and dont be shy to ask more.

 

[Taylor3180]

I do have the factory amp under the seat. But I thought when you put an aftermarket head unit in that it did not go through that amp anymore as my front tweeters don't work since I have had the head unit installed.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

I do have the factory amp under the seat. But I thought when you put an aftermarket head unit in that it did not go through that amp anymore as my front tweeters don't work since I have had the head unit installed.

you are absolutely correct. only the subs are being powered by the amp right? the rest of the speakers are powered by the deck? if so continue to follow what grnchevyz mentions in his 2nd paragraph.

 

[grnchevyz]

I do have the factory amp under the seat. But I thought when you put an aftermarket head unit in that it did not go through that amp anymore as my front tweeters don't work since I have had the head unit installed.

To remedy your problem for the tweeters you can buy a crossover cheap cheap at any audio shop and run wires to the front (white and gray wire pairs) and you'll get tweeters again. To test the speakers you MUST do it from the amplifier. The wire colors are as follows:

Rear Left: Gray/Blue (-) Yellow/Blue (+)
Rear Right: Gray/Red (-) Yellow/Red (+)

Door Left: Black/Blue(-) White/Blue (+)
Door Right: Black/Red (-) White/Red (+)

Tweeters color are the same as Rear Speakers but NOT the same wires.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

once the deck is changed, the amp under the seat is no longer in play unless he got a MITAH adapter. and it doesnt look like he did or else the dash speakers/tweeters would be working.

the proprietary din cable that connects to the factory amp and stock deck can be compared to the rca cables that connect from aftermarket deck to input of aftermarket amp. with the stock deck replaced, the din cable is no longer in play, thus the stock amp no longer in play, thus not getting any input signal for it to xover the sound from the door speakers and the dash speakers, obviously thats why it no longer works.

the 2g audio is wired in parallel i believe, for those who don't have the infinity option. remove the harness from the stock amp and everything will still work if you have your aftermarket deck installed.

the factory din cable is only a 4channel output, someone posted the schematics on it a while back. it does not have 5, if you get the mitah cable which adapts to this proprietary connection you will see just that. the factory amp has the xover built in to send to the tweets/dash speakers. so its like a component system. you can run the mitah cable reverse too just upgrading the stock amp but keeping the stock deck, but who would want to do that..

heh i forget how much i love 2g car audio, it makes it so easy to wire thanks to how its wired. i dont know all the technicalities on it, but the schematics flows through my head fairly easily, so many different combinations depending on the setup one has to play with.

good luck

 

[grnchevyz]

yeah forgot about the parallel wiring....so tired Removed incorrect info from above post...rest remains though.

 

[mmmmbst]

Wait, I have an afermarket cd player and i removed my factory amp. So, to get my tweeters working again just rewire them with a crossover?

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Yes, thats why i like to recommend components first thing on 2gs instead of coaxial/2/3/4 way speakers. Actually after dealing with both, I prefer components all the time for any upgrade

 

[shaggyslaser]

I work at Best Buy in the install bay and there is a wiring harness available to integrate the Infinity amp to an aftermarket head unit, you need at least 2 sets of pre-outs though. The package actually comes with 2 harness, one that will integrate the amp, and one for a car without the Infinity system.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

yea its known here as the MITAH adapter, i've mentioned it numerous of times to people who have these kind of issues.

there are 2 packages ive seen iwth hte MITAH adapter.. it comes with the proprietary din cable conversion to connect to a new aftermarket deck, and a harness that connects your aftermarket deck to stock wiring harness. they actually go hand in hand. the older packages came with the harness that connects to your deck to stock car wiring had even the speaker connections.. the newer ones are just a few wires, just the power/ground/memory/antenna i believe. this is the case because it is assumed you are using the stock amp with the new deck and don't need all the other speaker connections.. as mention for those who did not have the stock amp.

you actually dont NEED to sets of preouts on your deck, the important is having ones for the front, which the sound field is most important for, and for the stock amp because thats the one it has the xovers built in for the dash speakers. just power the rear speakers by the deck..

but my suggestion, just have the deck power it all and get components or xovers, the stock amp cannot compare to even deck power. it just sounds more complete when you use the stock amp because you get your dash speakers back and the sound field becomes much better, but get xovers or components and wire it up properly so its all deck power and compare it to stock amp and your ears will tell you whats better..

 

[grnchevyz]

Here is that radio diagram for those with an amplified system. This should make it clearer

 

[Bubbs Malone]

Another option is to purchase speakers for the doors that come with crossovers for the dash tweeters. I'm using Infinity tweeters purchased at the auto wreckers (my N/T came with no tweeters) with Fusion Reactor Component 6-1/2" door speakers. The crossovers have a +/- 10 db switch on them to tweak the tweeters.

 

[08talon08]

Factory amp is bad bypass it better sound no more problems take out your pasanger seat and underneath will be your factory amp run speaker wire from headunit to these wires pretty sure on wire colors but tone them just to be safe

Yellow w/ Blue is Positive for the Left Front
Gray w/ Blue is Negative for the Left Front

Yellow w/ Red is Positive for the Right Front
Gray w/ Red is Negative for the Right Front


White w/ Blue is Positive for the Left Rear
Black w/ Blue is Negative for the Left Rear

White w/ Red is Positive for the Right Rear
Black w/ Red is Negative for the Right Rear

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Stuff mentioned has been in the tech section already for quite sometime for easy reference

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...removing-2g-inifinity-amp-w-diagram-pics.html