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Front right camber problem?

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goldeninja20

10+ Year Contributor
589
3
Dec 5, 2010
Norton, Massachusetts
Well first off, i do not have any sort of camber adjustment. My front right tire clearly has more camber than that of the front left side (negative camber). I am not the only one who has noticed. I recently changed the upper control arm on that side because it was squeaky. I put the car on a lift and the lower control arm has no play. The wheel has no play at all. Is it possible i purchased the wrong upper control arm? I cannot remember if it was like that with the previous upper control arm. Is there another upper control arm that will bolt up and not be the correct one? I really need opinions here before my tire gets too worn out since they are brand new. I also forgot to add i am getting crazy wheel hop, even though i have a solid front motor mount, I dont know if this may be the issue.
 
If your strut mounts are sound, then check for bent strut or knuckle. I don't know if another U/C/A will bolt in but a shorter arm would create negative camber. Also, SPC make camber kits for the front, 73600 IIRC.
 
If your strut mounts are sound, then check for bent strut or knuckle. I don't know if another U/C/A will bolt in but a shorter arm would create negative camber. Also, SPC make camber kits for the front, 73600 IIRC.

There is absolutely no rust on the strut towers and it doesnt look like there has ever been repairs. I was thinking the Upper control arm may be shorter, but i dont see why it would be, it is the correct one. I cannot see anything that is bent.
 
You more than likely won't be able to "see" a bent knuckle, strut would typically be more apparent. A good alignment shop should be able to tell you if the strut/knuckle are bent. What are the actual spec readings you're getting?
 
You more than likely won't be able to "see" a bent knuckle, strut would typically be more apparent. A good alignment shop should be able to tell you if the strut/knuckle are bent. What are the actual spec readings you're getting?

I actually havent brought it to the alignment shop yet. I wanted to get everything sorted out and replace what needed replacement. I am thinking i will just bring it there and see what they say. Why would a bent strut affect camber? I thought only the lower and upper control arm would?
 
You more than likely won't be able to "see" a bent knuckle, strut would typically be more apparent. A good alignment shop should be able to tell you if the strut/knuckle are bent. What are the actual spec readings you're getting?

Is there any way to check to see if it is my knuckle? My strut appears to be fine. There still is absolutely no play, Nothing that i can see is bent. Would an alignment shop charge me (more than charge of an alignment) to check it out, if i just bring it in and tell them i want an alignment. Is there any things i can do to see if things are bent and if so, what is bent?
 
Is there any way to check to see if it is my knuckle? My strut appears to be fine. There still is absolutely no play, Nothing that i can see is bent. Would an alignment shop charge me (more than charge of an alignment) to check it out, if i just bring it in and tell them i want an alignment. Is there any things i can do to see if things are bent and if so, what is bent?

I charge $30 for a check and apply that to any repairs. (not including alignment) This is fairly standard practice in my area, couldn't say for other places but I can't imagine it would be much for a check. I would recommend staying away from the "chain store" alignment shops; a large percentage of them know very little about the chassis, they just read numbers on a screen and make them green.

Depending on how far the knuckle is bent (if it is) you may be able to make side to side measurements and detect it with a tape. Put the front up on stands to unload the suspension and take a series of measurements from centerline on the knuckle to about 15* on either side of center. Measure inwards towards the wheel well and match the reference points on either side, any major differences (1/2" or more) and you have a strong probable. It's not exact, just quick and dirty to give you a better idea. Overall it's better to go to an experienced undercar shop and have them take the measurements and make the determination.
 
I charge $30 for a check and apply that to any repairs. (not including alignment) This is fairly standard practice in my area, couldn't say for other places but I can't imagine it would be much for a check. I would recommend staying away from the "chain store" alignment shops; a large percentage of them know very little about the chassis, they just read numbers on a screen and make them green.

Depending on how far the knuckle is bent (if it is) you may be able to make side to side measurements and detect it with a tape. Put the front up on stands to unload the suspension and take a series of measurements from centerline on the knuckle to about 15* on either side of center. Measure inwards towards the wheel well and match the reference points on either side, any major differences (1/2" or more) and you have a strong probable. It's not exact, just quick and dirty to give you a better idea. Overall it's better to go to an experienced undercar shop and have them take the measurements and make the determination.

I will go talk to a local place who does alignments and see what they can do. My question is how would i bend a knuckle. Hitting a bump hard? I was just worried that a local shop will yank me on an alignment and not warn me about the camber issue.

I just checked to make sure my upper control arm was tight, and i noticed That where the bolt sit looks unaligned.

http://s1235.photobucket.com/user/x...g.html?&_suid=1363981483858008848347044584764
 
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Typically it would take a pretty good impact to bend a knuckle, I wouldn't expect a pot-hole or something along those lines to do it. Running into or over curbs with a little speed can do it for sure. (saw it earlier this week) Since you are already aware of the camber issue, I would discuss it up front with the shop, explain that you have excessive camber in one wheel and would like to know why and what it will take to fix it. If they want to align the vehicle, make sure the work is warranted and that they can provide a spec sheet with an explanation.
 
Typically it would take a pretty good impact to bend a knuckle, I wouldn't expect a pot-hole or something along those lines to do it. Running into or over curbs with a little speed can do it for sure. (saw it earlier this week) Since you are already aware of the camber issue, I would discuss it up front with the shop, explain that you have excessive camber in one wheel and would like to know why and what it will take to fix it. If they want to align the vehicle, make sure the work is warranted and that they can provide a spec sheet with an explanation.

I havent hit anything nearly that hard, and there are no major potholes around me. It may have been a previous owner. My plan is to discuss it with them up front and see what they can do for me. Because i really dont want to pay for them to repair it, unless it of course is the chassis and then i really dont have a choice. In your opinion do you think i would just be better off replacing the whole knuckle with the price i will be paying for them to check it out? i could probably get one at the junkyard.
 
I havent hit anything nearly that hard, and there are no major potholes around me. It may have been a previous owner. My plan is to discuss it with them up front and see what they can do for me. Because i really dont want to pay for them to repair it, unless it of course is the chassis and then i really dont have a choice. In your opinion do you think i would just be better off replacing the whole knuckle with the price i will be paying for them to check it out? i could probably get one at the junkyard.

You don't know that it is a knuckle. What if you grab a junker, throw it on and have the same problem. Then you have to pay a shop to look at it anyway and you're out twice the cash. IMHO, if you are not able to make the determination yourself, the get someone who can. Maybe a simple cam kit will fix your issue. The shotgun approach hardly ever hits on the first shot.
 
Spoke with a very friendly guy at Norton Automotive today. He said they would charge for an alignment and give me results, and then depending on how far it is off, we can work from there. But he said that i could fix the problem and that i could bring it back and get it realigned. I think i will be getting new struts anyway, because i think wheel hop is caused by a bad strut too.
 
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