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99 gst spyder

15+ Year Contributor
522
1
Jul 12, 2007
st. paul, Minnesota
Okay, I'v picked up a free 92 eclipse gsx with a 6bolt motor complete. I opened up everything except internal part and found out the there is some 272 hks camshaft, stock head, mangnus intake manifold, built block with je pistons and eagle rods. A lot of carbon build up on top of piston. Visually, everyone looks okay.

Should I reuse the block and built the head with some springs, retainers, valve stems and seals. What do you guys recommend on parts for the head? What extra work should I change inside the block to make sure everything is still in good condition? Like bearings, main studs, rings, ect......and how do I come about it.

The car was not running but was able to crank. I have another 1g talon I want to swap this motor into that has a complete stock motor.

Thanks a lot.
 
Check if the injectors are clogged, or try ohming out the coil, and the ICM. Simple things always get in the way of our cars wanting to start :/
 
If your unsure of the condition just check all your measurements. Maybe throw new rings and bearings in it and roll on out. If the car was free then you can afford to toss a little extra preventative maintenance into it. Dont forget to replace or atleast inspect the oil pump thouroghly while you have things apart.
 
Thanks to all. Probably taking it apart and taking it to a machine shop to have it all done. Once it's maching and everything, new bearings, rings and main studs. This will be along with building my head too.

Probably new oil pump assembly. I'll try and change if not all but most of any gasket I can get to. I "was" looking at the cometic gasket set. Wondering if those are any good.

Do new rings need to be degree when putting on?

I was shopping around, doesn't JE pistons come .020 size? Not factory size right? Stmtuned only has them in .020, and .040 size I believe.

Any one know the cost of these head and block machine work, and what should need to be done?
 
Machining will cost you around $150~$300. As far as the je pistons is concerned yes you can get them in standard size. And what do you mean by degree the piston rings? They go on a certain way if that is what you are asking.
 
Carbon build up on top of the pistons will cause knock, you should either clean them up or have the whole block checked, might as well spend some money and bring it to a machine shop since it was free and be on the safer side.
 
Machining will cost you around $150~$300. As far as the je pistons is concerned yes you can get them in standard size. And what do you mean by degree the piston rings? They go on a certain way if that is what you are asking.

$150-$300 just for getting the block machine or the head too? Can anyone tell me what's included in the machine work?

Yes I meant do the rings have a correct way of putting them in and how or if there is a site somewhere that actually shows how to install it.

If I had the cylinder wall bored to .020, I'd have to get new .020 pistons but can I use the rod I have now with new .020 pistons?
 
Usually when a block is getting machined, they line honed on the mains, cylinder walls get honed or bored then honed, and the deck gets resurfaced. They also can bead blast the block, hot tank it, pressure test the coolant passages, replace the freeze plugs. There are numerous things that a machinist does on an engine assembly. $150-300 is highly likely just for the block.

When replacing piston rings, they need to be placed in the cylinder and the ring gap measured. They need to be filed until the ring end gap is within spec. They go on in specific order and direction.
 
Machining will cost you around $150~$300. As far as the je pistons is concerned yes you can get them in standard size. And what do you mean by degree the piston rings? They go on a certain way if that is what you are asking.

As to what supremedsm said that there are factory size (85mm) je piston. I just don't seem to find any place that sells ring set for 85mm factory bore, assuming my je pistons are 85mm for the 85mm factory block. Unless the block was bore to .020 with .020 pistons that i don't know about.

Anyone have any idea where I can get 85mm ring set? correct me if i'm mistaken.
 
The head can be quite expensive, it depends what is all needed done to it. The basic machine work for the head is deck it, dip it in acid to clean it, and check the valves. IF the valve's are bad and valves seals it can get quite expensive. Around $200 to $400 for the head with labor.
$40- Dipped in acid
$40- Decked
$8-$13 for each valve bent or needed to be replaced
$30- for three angle job but included if all valves, guides, and valve seals are replaced
$ valve seals
$ guides
 
The head can be quite expensive, it depends what is all needed done to it. The basic machine work for the head is deck it, dip it in acid to clean it, and check the valves. IF the valve's are bad and valves seals it can get quite expensive. Around $200 to $400 for the head with labor.
$40- Dipped in acid
$40- Decked
$8-$13 for each valve bent or needed to be replaced
$30- for three angle job but included if all valves, guides, and valve seals are replaced
$ valve seals
$ guides

lets say that the valves are still good with putting new seals in. Can I just have them deck, and dip it?

Will stock head w/272s be able to hold the built (je/eagle) block to 500whp.

Anything on any vendors making 85mm rings for the je pistons?

thanks
 
If you're worried, grab your torque wrench and do a quick check on the bearing clearances with plastigauge. I wouldn't just assume the engine needs machine work and tear it down without proving a need for it. Every time you deck the head, mill the block, line hone the mains, bore the cylinders... etc, you're losing material availale for the next rebuild regardless of the also wasted money.

I'm assuming you must have had some reason to believe there was a problem before you pulled the head, what exactly was that reason?
 
If you're worried, grab your torque wrench and do a quick check on the bearing clearances with plastigauge. I wouldn't just assume the engine needs machine work and tear it down without proving a need for it. Every time you deck the head, mill the block, line hone the mains, bore the cylinders... etc, you're losing material availale for the next rebuild regardless of the also wasted money.

I'm assuming you must have had some reason to believe there was a problem before you pulled the head, what exactly was that reason?

Well, the previous owner which I know said that it misfire alot when it's drivable and said it could be a bad coil pack, then the car came to where it wouldn't start. It would crank with new battery but with his old battery, it wouldn't even crank.

All that plus the piston had alot of carbon build up on top. When i rotate the crank with the motor out, seems like oil was leaking throught the piston between the piston and the cylinder wall. Maybe it needs new rings.

I guess the only way i can find out is bring it to a machine shop and have it checked out.
 
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