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99 GSX/LinkV3/billet 20g/fic1120's, built long block.

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stiggity99

10+ Year Contributor
231
4
Mar 31, 2011
York Haven, Pennsylvania
Greetings:
I finally have the car on the road, and I cannot seem to be able to boost passed 20psi in 3rd/4th/5th without the CEL tripping. I'm sure its detecting knock, and pulling timing on me. I'm still using a stock MAF, and have not went down the Speed Density route.. yet. I only run 93 or higher octane fuel. My IDC's are normal, plenty more to pull out of it.

Without me postings a log, what do ya'll think could be the problem. Re-wired walbro400, an6 from filter to rail, to FuelLab FPR. Base fuel pressure is fine. My turbo is from Justin , a td06 sl2 20g, and I love it, but only being able to floor 3rd gear at 19/20psi, stinks.. FP manifold, megan o2 housing, 3" to tailpipe... AEM Wideband, logged in link... sheesh.. One thing, if I get into it in 2nd gear, it will steadily hold 20/21psi all the way to 7400RPM?!?!? no CEL, no bucking, etc... any help is greatly appreciated, and if theirs any area I can clear up, just let me know. thanks..
 
Is there black goo leaking from your knock sensor? Tips at 0 % closed and 100% open? What's your timing look like? There's a good chance you'll need to keep the timing under 14 degree's peak on pump gas..
 
blackawd:
I do have someone who's been tuning it, and if I can get the boost to 19psi, it never trips the CEL, and pulls all the way. But I don't feel like settling for 19psi, on a setup that can handle more.
When I do get into it in 3rd/4th (usually merging on the highway) I only go, not even halfway throttle I see my boost gauge reach 21/22psi and it pulls timing.

90laser:
It's a brand new knock sensor. TPS has been adjusted, and the guy tuning the car, is very knowledgeable. He has knock set more, to fool-proof me, blowing it up. I don't have my laptop till later on today, but i'll get a log with this happening... you know, I havn't looked at my wideband while this is happening.... 21psi on 1120cc injectors, and DSMLink should be lean..
 
blackawd:
I do have someone who's been tuning it, and if I can get the boost to 19psi, it never trips the CEL, and pulls all the way. But I don't feel like settling for 19psi, on a setup that can handle more.
When I do get into it in 3rd/4th (usually merging on the highway) I only go, not even halfway throttle I see my boost gauge reach 21/22psi and it pulls timing.

You should be communicating this to your tuner. You're asking us what we think could be the problem and we're telling you its the tune. You don't have to settle for anything. Tell the tuner what you want and let him/her do it. It sounds like the tune is not yet finalized which is making this thread moot at this point. I would not be driving a modified car on a half completed tune. If the tuner is no good, find another one.
 
Black95:
I have been communicating with my tuner, and he cant be of much assistance working in Russia. He has told me numerous times... "Send me some logs..." but of coarse, your Right. He's going to work on it this weekend. Just got off the telephone. And in the meantime, I'm going to re-gap my plugs. They are NGK BPR8ES gapped to .024, what's your thoughts on a happy-medium gap distance. Thanks for the replies. I was simply asking why I cannot pull more than 20lbs of boost, when I built the car to... _at least_ run ~25lbs. That's all.
 
Would blowout cause the CEL to trip?? I read DSM posts, articles, etc.. All the time. Did I go with the wrong plugs?? Currently BPR8ES gapped to .024. I had the same issue when I had this engine in my 96 TSi.. my tuner recommended trying some 100octane unleaded... So 6000miles on this engine, I put it in my GSX and I'm running into the same issue. Justin said this turbo should run good, and so far so good, but 20psi stinks.. my compression ratio is 9:1, could that cause a boosting issue. I'm believing its ignition related...
 
Take the projected plugs out. Buy a set of BR8ES, projected plugs induce knock..
 
I'll post a log tomorrow when I get my laptop back.
I will get a set of BR8ES Plugs, and gap them to .024
It's getting a conservative street MAF tune this weekend. Idle and cruise trims are dialed in. Injector dead time, and global have been set...... so far.
thanks for the input. Sorry I'm not doing a great job, with input on my end... log tomorrow.. after new plugs..
 
Plugs are gapped, and boost is at 24psi, 85% of the time, I can floor 2/3/4 and the cel doesn't trip. 1 time it did, but it went out right away, and I didn't feel any power loss. Attached is a big log, about 15mins worth of spirited driving. I'm not familiar enough with Link to cut/splice, but if anyone wants to look at the log, I would appreciate it. The car HAS been tuned to roughly, 20psi. And will be finalized, this weekend. thank you all..
 

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Advice get a new tuner as the simple basic things are not even correct. Your TPS needs to be set at .63v not .55v at idle, the DA fuel maps have not been touched still at stock WOT 9.2 instead of around 11, adjusting timing should be done in the DA table not by sliders, CombineFT are out of whack also should aim closer to 0%, uncheck the disable airflow with SD under MISC tab, under the ECU inputs change the MAP input back to undefined not MDP, and your MAF sliders are not adjusted for WOT at all.

Change some your settings and post an idle log at operating temp of 186 or above.
 
Type1:
My tuner has made every single change to my car. Is he worth paying money too? I keep wondering why I can't boost much. If your saying my MAF sliders aren't adjusted for WOT, could that be the reason I'm running into a brick wall? I don't really know anybody else who could tune it, besides myself. Here is the idle log you requested. I could only adjust my tps voltage to .73 instead of .55 I unchecked disable airflow. Only think operating temperature was 160, but I can get another log. I don't know anything about tuning, except from what Chris has showed me, and only 20% of that absorbed. Thank You.
 

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Sorry, my ignorance. You just told me about wide open MAF slider's aren't adjusted. From those logs, is there anything that I could do to make it run better??? I'm not quite sure how to get my tps voltage to .63 as I simple turned the key on, connected, started a capture, and r/clicked in the capture data, and went to tps adjustment. Even then, there wasn't any kind of input box to alter raw voltage. I'm a 100% beginner when it comes to tuning, altho I built the entire car.
 
Follow this guide to adjust the tps. http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3tpsadj
Keep adding or subtracting from the tps offset until it goes to .63 after you have done the base tps adjusting.

No, I would not pay for the tune because like I said the simple basic things are not correct. Do you have the FIC data sheet from them for injbattadj values? I know that your on maf and not SD that's why I had you uncheck those boxes.

There are a lot of knowledgeable members on here that could help you tune your car and you can learn as you go.

But to start we need the basics done and work on those injectors for an idle and then cruise and finally WOT.
 
Sorry, my ignorance. You just told me about wide open MAF slider's aren't adjusted. From those logs, is there anything that I could do to make it run better??? I'm not quite sure how to get my tps voltage to .63 as I simple turned the key on, connected, started a capture, and r/clicked in the capture data, and went to tps adjustment. Even then, there wasn't any kind of input box to alter raw voltage. I'm a 100% beginner when it comes to tuning, altho I built the entire car.

Add mafcomp to your logs and you will see the hz. Your maf comp hz slides are only adjusted to 600hz and are probably not correct either because the injectors are not dialed in.

Watch these videos.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos.php
 
Type1:
I managed to get the tps offset adjusted, and got the tps voltage to .65 and saved it. I do not have the paperwork that came with my injectors, but they only have 4000 miles on them, and my tuner (Chris) worked on dialing them in for awhile. I do NOT have any boost leaks, and my wideband usually hovers between 14.3 and 15.3 at cruise. Sometimes at idle it will sit there and "lope" but the wideband goes off the scale in the lean zone. :( but then a second or two and it perks back up to 14.3 to 15.3 I apologize for losing the paperwork from FIC. they are the 1120cc drop-ins. I Always run 93octane fuel.

I appreciate the help, and would Love to get it running right, before I blow it up out of ignorance.
 
Those are some _cool_ video's. I'll have to get more familiar with the interface, and start putting what I just learned, into my ECU.
I followed along rather well, but I still don't want to mess anything up. I am PayPal ready, incase you want to help me tune it.
So if I start it, and work on fuel trims, and airflow/rev being .25 (not sure what it would be for a .040, 9:1, 272cams) that being the constant, I can add/subtract dead time, to get combined fuel trim
to 1.2 1.5... while still keeping airflow/rev, _where it should be_?? thanks again..
 
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I completely agree with GST with PSI as our advice is free as long as your willing to learn. I would also recommend one of the freelancers remote tunes as well as there is good reviews about them.

I've had fic 1120 and will try to find the paper for an estimate on the injbattadj. That way you can use the dead times for fine tuning.
 
GST w/ PSI:
I'm sorry for offering money for help getting my car running right. That was totally distasteful. It won't happen again.

Type1:
If you find the data sheet for the FIC 1120's, do I just plug in global % and dead time? What is injbattadj??? I believe the 1120's are dialed in at 1050's.. not sure.
 
GST w/ PSI:
I'm sorry for offering money for help getting my car running right. That was totally distasteful. It won't happen again.

No worries. I've also been in situations where I was ready to shell out whatever money it took for somebody to just fix whatever issue I was having. We've probably all been frustrated to that point.

The reason I said to quit offering up money to random members is to protect you. There are plenty of people here who could probably tune your car, but, there are probably 10 times that many who don't have a clue, but would be probably be willing to take your money. Before you know it, you've got some guy in Russia that claims he's a tuner who's taking your hard earned money but doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground when it comes to tuning. And here we are...

The tuners in the freelancer section are established members, who are paying to advertise their services here. That means you can review their feedback, and select the one who best suits you without having to worry about whether or not they can even spell ECMlink. If you're wanting to pay for a tune, I'd recommend you spend your money wisely, and select someone who specializes in remote tuning DSMs; like someone from the freelancer section.

Alternatively, there's tons of free help available. Go here, answer the questions, restate your issue and post a log: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wa...r-receive-no-replies-from-the-wisemen.443297/

With some patience and learning, you'll probably get your tune worked out for free.
 
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