Fluttering noise... its soooooo annoying...... LOTS OF DETAILED PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[SRiz]

Ok i just got a 1997 eclipse GS-T ... got a good deal so it was supped up a bit exuast... greddy BOV... KnN airfilter...bunch of guages ...ok now my problem is with the BOV when I let off the gas it makes that stupid fluttering noise i wanna know how to change it to the stright out PFTTTTTTTTT because I heard the flutter stresses ur turbo. ok well im gonna give u guys a bunch of links to pictures of my engine i also have an oil leak and wanna know if anyone can tell where its coming from , also if anyone can see anyother mods in the pics please let me know im a new DSM owner and wanna know if its overboosted or anything like that......... One last thing in the end i want my BOV to be decently loud if its safe and close to stock as possible.... THANK YOU SOOO MUCH IF YOU HAVE READ THIS FAR heres the links...! pic 1 pic 2 pic3 pic4 pic 5 pic6

 

[SRiz]

is the thing you hook up the wastegate hose to on the bottom of air intake ...its facing down to the left ????

 

[92AWD_VDSM]

The top nipple on the purple part needs to be hooked up to a hose that runs to your intake manifold. The second nipple on the chrome part most leave alone. However greddy states that you can use a boost source I.E. the nipple coming off your turbo comp. housing to allow it to open and close faster.I Have never tried it though... The screw on top of the purple part is the spring adjustment... If your BOV is fluttering you need to loosen it( counterclockwise) and if your BOV is opening at 0 psi you need to tighten it(clockwise) I Hope this has been a help BTW selling a greddy type-s anyone interested???

 

[tighty]

If you hook put a boost source to the bottom lower nipple on the Greddy BOV it will leak like a biatch. I read somewhere that you actually need to seal that area with o-rings before using it and that if you do you can only run like 13 psi of boost.

I originally had it hooked up when I installed mine and it did open quicker, but when I did a leakdown test it was leaking like crazy so I just stopped using it. Just adjust the top one quarter turns until it stops fluttering.

 

[WSU99GSX]

If you hook put a boost source to the bottom lower nipple on the Greddy BOV it will leak like a biatch. I read somewhere that you actually need to seal that area with o-rings before using it and that if you do you can only run like 13 psi of boost.

I originally had it hooked up when I installed mine and it did open quicker, but when I did a leakdown test it was leaking like crazy so I just stopped using it. Just adjust the top one quarter turns until it stops fluttering.

Huh never heard that before.....

 

[WSU99GSX]

Huh never heard that before.....

Tested it last night, and what do you know, you are right! With that lower hose on the thing leaked like a mother....

 

[tighty]

You can thank the 2gNT guys for that one. I think thats where I saw the info about it leakin. Stupid Greddy!.

 

[oldman]

92 Talon TSI AWD, after reading this thread I went out to check to see if the one on daves are was setup correctly and im not sure it it is or not. The thing im not sure about is the lines going to the stock wastegate solenoid.

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Sorry for asking probably newbi like questions, my friend just got this car and I have not done much work on DSM's before, i normaly work on domestics muscle cars.

I didnt want to start changing things simply becouse im not sure if its going to break if I do or not. If anyone knows i would appreciate it though!

Since you have MBC, you can go ahead and disable the wastgate solenoid by removing the tee and plug up the nipple on the air can.

As to the original post, the turbo nipple is not ideal for a boost gauge because it's to far. Check out http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/gauges/boost.html for where to tap for a boost gauge. You're overboosting because your wastgate is closed all the time. You need to run a hose from turbo nipple to wastgate actuator nipple so you will run at actuator stock boost. You can turn it up after you get a MBC.

 

[suicidal2af]

Fluttering of the BOV is not necessarily compressor surge. Aftermarket BOV's have stiffer springs than OEM so they are harder to open. Lower boost levels will have a hard time opening the BOV. The fluttering sound is more than likely just BOV(as most aftermarket ones tend to do) and is not actually causing your compressor to surge.

You seem to be a little confused. The stiffer spring makes it harder to open the valve, which doesn't release pressure. The air surges back towards the compressor, halting its spin.

Moral of the story? Flutter = compressor surge.

 

[Tech9Talon]

Since you have MBC, you can go ahead and disable the wastgate solenoid by removing the tee and plug up the nipple on the air can.

As to the original post, the turbo nipple is not ideal for a boost gauge because it's to far. Check out http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/gauges/boost.html for where to tap for a boost gauge. You're overboosting because your wastgate is closed all the time. You need to run a hose from turbo nipple to wastgate actuator nipple so you will run at actuator stock boost. You can turn it up after you get a MBC.

I have a similar problem. My greddy RS is causing fluttering. First it did that and didn't seems to vent @ all, I adjusted the spring to "harder" now @ low boost it flutters and high boost it lets off "pshhh". I also have the boost controller running on the same line as the B.O.V. (as in this link http://www.taboospeedshop.com/emissions1.htm I the only line a changed was the intake to bov to boostcontroller to wg) I don't know if this would cause I problem, but i didn't know where to get positive pressure from the turbine housing. The t25 had a nipple, was I supposed to take it off and put it on the evo III 16g, somewhere? It was my first turbo install.

 

[yup talon]

i dont wanna steal your thread or anything but im having the same problem. ive loosened my spring adjustment almost to the point of the screw coming out. it still flutters though. i replaced all my i\c piping at the same time im thinking maybe a boost leak? I want to hook up the lower nipple if it helps, so should i run it to the outlet on my t25 comp. housing? also my idle started getting weird after i run it for a little while, and ive never seen my exhaust manifold get that red hot before. again sorry if it seems like im ripping into your thread, but im havin the same probs it sounds like

 

[Vandy4g63]

with the greddy BOV the flutter isn't compressor surge, the BOV is designed to do that. It happens when the amount of boost isn't high enough to warrant a full fledged "pshhht", very much like the SSQV. This probably happens to you when you're at partial throttle accelerating then shift, right? I bet it never happens at 15psi...

if it does, you sir, have a boost leak, or your BOV isn't set correctly.

Compressor surge is VERY obvious, it sounds ilke a "DUNK DUNK DUNK DUNK", not a flutter.


http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?...opic_id=6224&mesg_id=6224&listing_type=search


P.S. the flutter sounds cool in my opinion

 

[Tech9Talon]

with the greddy BOV the flutter isn't compressor surge, the BOV is designed to do that. It happens when the amount of boost isn't high enough to warrant a full fledged "pshhht", very much like the SSQV. This probably happens to you when you're at partial throttle accelerating then shift, right? I bet it never happens at 15psi...

if it does, you sir, have a boost leak, or your BOV isn't set correctly.

Compressor surge is VERY obvious, it sounds ilke a "DUNK DUNK DUNK DUNK", not a flutter.


http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?...opic_id=6224&mesg_id=6224&listing_type=search


P.S. the flutter sounds cool in my opinion

It does happen Around 10 but at 15 I'm fine. Also today my boost jumped to 20 on methen I hit fuel cut, I may have a vaccume problem. If I rev the car when im uenr the hood that sound sounds like it comes from the air filter area.

 

[saw wave analog]

holy jesus christ there are about 3 facts and 50 piles of crap in this thread.

fluttering is air slamming back into the turbo because the blowoff valve isnt opening enough, or fast enough, or at all. it can sound like a light fluttering or a loud ass clattering depending on boostlevel, amount of pressure remaining in the ic piping when the tb closes etc.. its not going to sound exactly the same on 2 different cars, but its bad any way you cut it. not only is it going to shorten the life of the turbo, but its going to make the turbo a lot less responsive between shifts. the top nipple on the type s connects directly to the intake manifold vac source, i used that same line to provide pressure to my boost controller with no problems. the bottom line needs to be connected to the pressure source on the compressor housing on your t25. pull your intake pipe and feel around on the turbo, its in between the inlet and outlet ports. run a vac line from there to the lower nipple on the type s.. its there for a reason, and will most 100% definatley not cause a leak, its going to make it hold *better* and it will eliminate your surging. set the spring somewhere around halfway, until you arent getting anymore surge. that spring is not to adjust the sound its to adjust the valves spring tension to work the best with your setup. get it as tight as you can without surging.

you can run it without the lower nipple hooked up

you can also drive your car on 3 cylinders...



if you dont know what you are talking about, i beg you, dont pull things out of your ass..

 

[Tech9Talon]

How bout a type RS which only has 1 vac nipple?

I went out tonight and kept adjusting the spring on the Tyoe RS. It still surges, even If I set it to the softest setting. If I set it soft it seemed to let off around 5psi, w/ more boost? I'm guess becuase it's not venting enough? If I adjsuted it to harder, it will blow off around 10+ and surge below this. I'm tempted to put the Turbo XS valve back on.

 

[saw wave analog]

if your vac source is good then maybe you have a bad bov? if its on the same line as your mbc is maybe try giving it a dedicated line.. maybe the bleed on your controller is affecting it somehow? i had mine on the same line though with no issue

when i first got it it did surge a bit no matter how i set it, after a couple days of use though it seemed to settle in and it never really gave me any problems afterwards. it seems that adjustable bov's just like being assholes sometimes. ive never really head of any issues with a crushed 1g like i do with the aftermarket ones

 

[Tech9Talon]

where cna I run a dedicated line from? I do not have a pressure outlet on my turbine house to run the WG off that, I'm not sure if I forgot to install it, I tried to put the one on from my t25 but it wont fit? If I could run the boost controller off the turbine houseing pressure then I could run the BOV off the intake pressure. Thanks for the help.

 

[Vandy4g63]

holy jesus christ there are about 3 facts and 50 piles of crap in this thread.


if you dont know what you are talking about, i beg you, dont pull things out of your ass..

I agree with you about talking out of your ass, but trust me, the flutter is NOT compressor surge on that BOV. This has been discussed Umpteenbillion times on 2gnt.

And on a side note, the TypeS's do leak, but if you set it correctly then RTV the screw it helps alot.

 

[WSU99GSX]

Don't claim that hooking up the bottom nipple is the concrete matter of fact way, do a search on it, there are so many posts..as a matter of fact, I am not even going to beat that dead horse, just don't sound like an ass by trying to tell us that the only right way is to hook up the lower nipple, hell Greddy even says not to hook it up. Greddy the company that make the BOV...any way stop trying to pass your opinion as fact.

holy jesus christ there are about 3 facts and 50 piles of crap in this thread.

fluttering is air slamming back into the turbo because the blowoff valve isnt opening enough, or fast enough, or at all. it can sound like a light fluttering or a loud ass clattering depending on boostlevel, amount of pressure remaining in the ic piping when the tb closes etc.. its not going to sound exactly the same on 2 different cars, but its bad any way you cut it. not only is it going to shorten the life of the turbo, but its going to make the turbo a lot less responsive between shifts. the top nipple on the type s connects directly to the intake manifold vac source, i used that same line to provide pressure to my boost controller with no problems. the bottom line needs to be connected to the pressure source on the compressor housing on your t25. pull your intake pipe and feel around on the turbo, its in between the inlet and outlet ports. run a vac line from there to the lower nipple on the type s.. its there for a reason, and will most 100% definatley not cause a leak, its going to make it hold *better* and it will eliminate your surging. set the spring somewhere around halfway, until you arent getting anymore surge. that spring is not to adjust the sound its to adjust the valves spring tension to work the best with your setup. get it as tight as you can without surging.

you can run it without the lower nipple hooked up

you can also drive your car on 3 cylinders...



if you dont know what you are talking about, i beg you, dont pull things out of your ass..

 

[DSMatMSU]

i love threads with differing opinions... :thumbdown :laugh:

but anyway, my lwr nipple is just plugged off with a little cap... i may try running a vac hose over to the compresssor elbow... i mean it takes two seconds, and i guess its worth seeing what happens....

 

[GalantGst]

the flutter that you hear is the air trying to be forced back into the compressor wheel, that is why it is bad for the turbo.

exactly

its called compressor surge.

u can break and or bend the fins on the compressor like this.

 

[Burnett03]

sorry to bring this back from the dead but i just ordered a greddy type RS. The spring is adjusted all the way out and it flutters no matter what boost. Vacum line is hooked up but still flutters. Whats my option to make it not flutter?

 

[madaba]

i'm having the same issues as well with the rs. did you get yours figured out or is it normal with this bov? it's pretty annoying, it does off boost just shifting normally.

 

[Nanan]

The bottom nipple on the Type-S is a vacuum drain for the bov and should be left alone. Hooking stuff into it will force the bov to stay open if it does or force it to stay shut which is more likely.

 

[Burnett03]

i'm having the same issues as well with the rs. did you get yours figured out or is it normal with this bov? it's pretty annoying, it does off boost just shifting normally.

mine flutters no matter what. i even took the bigger spring inside of it out. still does it

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

so does mine still and I was wondering where to hook up the lower nipple from the BOV since I dont have a nipple on the comphouse of my B16g..? So..where wouild be the place to hook it up if there is no nipple on the turbo,to try and see if it helps?