ECMlink First ECMlink log critique/advice

[m1nd64m3]

I have finally fixed my fuel and boost leak issues and the car seems to be running pretty good, pulls pretty hard for only 8lbs of boost. I want to make sure everything else is in line before I start upping boost and further changing the tune. I've read over the guides and watched any ECMlink videos I could find on youtube but I'd like to see what you guys think since I'm new to tuning so I'm sure I'm missing something.

The car set up is:
97 talon tsi awd
5 speed
93 octane
43psi base fuel pressure
big 16g
VRSF front mount
255lph fuel pump
AEM AFPR
Fuelab fuel filter
FIC 850cc injectors
rewired fuel pump
ECMlink V3
LC-2 wideband, simulating narrowband through ECMlink
3 inch exhaust
new NGK plugs and wires

Right now it does bog down a little bit on light throttle and the dead time seems abnormally high at 595. Let me know what you guys think of the attached log.

Thanks!

 

[doubleclutch]

First, this:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/want-help-from-ecmlink-experts-read-this-or-receive-no-replies-from-the-wisemen.443297/

Next,
your ISC should be 30, your Airperrev should be 24-25 (it's not too bad). Your idle is high for some reason (set at 750 but is at 1050) (Boost/vaccum leak?). your TPS should be adjusted manually. You will need to get better AFR target tables because yours are the stock ones and way too rich.

Get those things in order and get a WOT log so we can see the WBfactor.

 

[m1nd64m3]

I fixed the idle either later in that log or the next one, I don't have my laptop with me at the moment so I can't check. Before the log I adjusted the TPS manually so TPS voltage was 0.63V, then during the tuning process it changed to 0.65V, not sure why it does this, but every time I pull the TPS sensor off or adjust it, it will always change ~.05 volts in the first drive even though it's on tight. The change caused it to read 1% throttle at idle, so the idle switch was not activating. I ran the TPS adjust and raised the idle to 850 and it is fine now, ISC was between 28-32 after this.

I will go back and run another boost leak test to be absolutely sure there are no leaks. Exhaust is good, no leaks at all. Wideband (LC-2) was re-calibrated last week, the readings look correct from the wideband, although I suspect the sensor may be on it's way out because when I was ending the log it crapped out and the light on the controller went red, I turned the car off and on and it was fine after that. The sensor is mounted about a foot downstream of the turbo.

I will have to check the base timing, although this is a stock 2g (97-99) motor, so it's not adjustable. Has anyone found the timing to be off on these? If so, how would one adjust this?

I was having fuel issues, so I went through the entire system. Replaced the fuel pump o-ring with the ribbed Toyota o-ring, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the fuel filter to rail with a stainless steel line, injectors are sealed in the head and fuel rail just fine. I removed the FPR to inspect the diaphragm and that is fine, I also swapped the restrictor fitting on the return side with the less restrictive fitting too. I Also put a new fuel pressure gauge on to verify that the fuel pressure was correct because I thought that maybe I had a bad fuel pressure gauge and that was why I needed to add so much dead time to get it to run right. All the fuel components are brand new.

Doubleclutch, I like the color combo of the dark red with gold wheels!

 

[doubleclutch]

I meant more along the lines of adjusting your direct access tables. See attached.

Also check this out:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-big-book-of-random-tuning-tips.511262/#post-153655832

 

[ATEAV8]

Build yourself a nice timing/fuel table for starters. Setup injectors correctly, there is no need to simulate the front o2 it does a great job alone unless of course you dont have 1. Uncheck locked baro and iat if youre on MAF. Shoot me a message if you have any questions