Fiav bypass, ridiculously low idle

[300hpbound]

So I did the fiav bypass according to the write up on vfaq. I sealed everything up on the freeze plug and sealed a new tb gasket when I reinstalled the throttle body. I am now dealing with an excessively low idle. I got the vfaq to adjust the biss and it doesn't seem to matter which way I turn the screw it drops even lower either way. At night, I can watch my lights become brighter as I step on the gas because my idle is so low at a stop in drive (it's an auto trans). I basically can't turn my idle up and it's way too low the way it sits now. Any suggestions?

 

[okm12346]

You adjust the BISS with the IAC plug pulled out and to rise the idle you need to turn counter clock wise. Maybe you BISS screw is messed up - I remember getting a new screw from a TB rebuild kit and it was plastic. I few months later it started giving me problems

 

[95AWD6Bolt]

What is the point of bypassing it?

 

[okm12346]

If your FIAV took a dump and you dont want to spend the money fixing it and it keeps the TB cooler since there's no coolant running through it anymore

 

[300hpbound]

What is the point of bypassing it?

The fiav is for cold starts and stuff. When it's cold it allows more air around the throttle plate. Unfortunately it's a spring/wax combo that is supposed to close when it's warm and it adjusts to a warm, low idle, it eventually wears out. It's also a huge source for idle surge, so by bypassing it, even tho it may b the first start up of the day it'll go straight into a warm idle rpm and warm up anyway. I have no more idle surge by doing this. Please someone else chime in if I didn't explain that correctly or have something else to add.

The iac and the isc are the same thing correct? Like I said it doesn't seem to matter which way I screw the biss it goes lower in idle. I know the tps is within spec; and I know they can go bad, but the isc is only three years old, bought brand new from Mitsubishi when it was replaced