Fabbing 1g widebody front fenders?

[Thomas91169]

IMO i wouldve gotten a set of fenders from the junkyard and modified them using actual steel. im hoping this is the route you will be going, and that youre just doing the clay stuff to get a feel of the look you want.

 

[eclipsh]

I've got a face on shot my home computer. I'll see about getting it posted up.

The full fender replacement just turned into way too big a job and I decided it would likely be cost prohibitive. I was guestimating $500 a pair. I'm only one guy after all.

I'm not planning on sheetmetal fenders. I don't have the tools to make them. I am planning this design around being able to sell a set of add on flares relatively cheap since Chris and others repeatedly suggest that is what the market needs. The goal is to make these inexpensive enough that the average DSMer can swing a set including rear flares for about $400-500.

 

[eclipsh]

Here are some more shots. The left/right comparison doesn't help much because I've already flared out my stock fenders about an inch and these only stick out 1 1/4" right now. I think I need to flare them out another 3/4".

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Here you can see my awful Bondo work. It won't matter with the way I'm building the molds, I just need to get the shape right.

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Here is the same shot with the background removed. It gives you a better idea of how the curve comes out from the fender. The angles aren't quite as extreme as the photo chop makes them look but you get the idea.

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[mavisky]

Not horrible, but probably not the solution I'll be using.

 

[eclipsh]

Not horrible, but probably not the solution I'll be using.

Fair enough. Any particular direction you'd like to see it go? Something you really dislike about it?

I'm thinking I will probably bring the curve of the front side forward a ways. It means I'll have to notch the flare around the side marker for my 1ga lights. I think it will smooth the transition more and look a lot better.

What do people think of the back half of the fender, the curve along the door and the 90* angle at the edge?

 

[Elvenhome21]

IMO, its a good start. After seeing that you did it with styro foam thats what I would use to make a mold for a complete fiberglass fender.

My dislikes:

It ends to aburuptly at the door. I don't know if a taper would look good or a piece on the door to at least blend in the height difference.

If I was making the fender for my cars application I would start the beginning taper of the flare at the signal light. So it looks like its part of the fender and not just a add on.

 

[Joesmoke]

Im glad someone is working on it. Its going in the right direction

I like the RX-8 esque rear of the fenders. I had that idea as well.

In its current state, if the bulge was a little less, it would be easier to transition toward the front and into the bumper area.

Please continue....

 

[mavisky]

With our cars essentially being designed as doorstops with wheels I prefer a crisper more "cut" line that clearly defines where the factory ends, and the aftermarket begins.

That's why I'll probably be using riveted on flares. I prefer the look of the form over function design of those kind of flares. Flares like yours that are smooth and rounded would suit the 2g's far better in my opinion.

 

[Ludachris]

I wish someone would just buy some S13 flares and use those as a starting point to fab up a mold that will fit our cars perfectly. Something that will take into consideration the lines where the bumper cover meets the fender and the side moldings on the fender. It would be so easy to do for someone who knows what they're doing. And once you have a mold all the hard work is done. You can turn around and sell them for $200/set to the DSM crowd and most would be happy with them.

That's the route I'll probably go. If nobody does it maybe I'll try creating a mold next season if time permits.