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goonie

15+ Year Contributor
251
4
Mar 2, 2004
soutomaior/spain, Europe
Hi there
After a few days playing with the maf translator i still cant get it right.
Can someone explain these numbers to me (i am totaly new at this),
all i know is that the knock is bad :notgood:
This is what the log shows,

rpm 3687 - rpm 4000 - rpm 4500 - rpm 5031 - rpm 5625 - rpm 6091 - rpm 6531

injp 7,67 ms - 14,59 - 18,17 - 19,96 - 19,71 - 18,43 - 17,40

knck 0 - 0 - 24 - 22 - 23 - 33 - 34

02-r 0,46v - 0,80v - 0.82 -- 0,80 - 0,80 - 0,80 - 0,78

tps 38,2% - 87,5 - 99,6 - 99,6 - 99,6 - 99,6 - 99,6

isc 20,3% - 33,5 - 39,8 - 39,8 - 39,8 - 39,8 - 39,8
-
tima 32* - 24* - 10* - 10* - 12* - 10* - 7*
-
02-f 2,96v - 2,96v - 2,96 - 2,96 - 2,96 - 2.96 - 2,96

To me it does not make any sence but i am still learning:coy:
Can some one tell me what numbers to reach for,
and how to adjust the maf translator?(For example how to get rid off the knock ,and how can i get rid off fuel cut above 12 psi?

Currently i am running about 12 psi of boost with e3 b16g
rewired fuel pump ,stock injectors,stock fpr,
3 inch maft and translator.

T.I.A:thumb:

p,s this are the settings on the translator

aux-0 mode off base 2 idle-4(20%) mid-E(-10%) wot-C(-20%)

These are the base settings did not get to fine tuning yet

Oh yeah 1G dsm year 1990 gst
 
For starters, have you done a boost leak test? If not then here is how to build a tester and test the system: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

Next time that you do a log, only log knock, timing, and o2 volts (if you want to do injector duty cycle, go to the main screen and you can change the units to a percentage that is much easier to read).

I think you are hitting fuel cut because of a boost leak somewhere in your system, so until you've done a boost leak test you can't start ruling anything else out.

Here is a helpful link for what the different things you logged mean: http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=params&type=dsm
 
alex99gst said:
For starters, have you done a boost leak test? If not then here is how to build a tester and test the system: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

Next time that you do a log, only log knock, timing, and o2 volts (if you want to do injector duty cycle, go to the main screen and you can change the units to a percentage that is much easier to read).

I think you are hitting fuel cut because of a boost leak somewhere in your system, so until you've done a boost leak test you can't start ruling anything else out.

Here is a helpful link for what the different things you logged mean: http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=params&type=dsm

Hi
Thanks for the response i will do a leak test and check my base timing
On my logger i have two 02 parameters, 02-r and 02-f both read in volts,
wich one do i need?
And about the knock its starting at 4000 rpm, do i have to richened the wot knob on the translator??
thanks,
 
goonie said:
Hi
Thanks for the response i will do a leak test and check my base timing
On my logger i have two 02 parameters, 02-r and 02-f both read in volts,
wich one do i need?
And about the knock its starting at 4000 rpm, do i have to richened the wot knob on the translator??
thanks,


Are you using MMCD for your logger? The 1Gs only have 1 O2 sensor & on MMCD it is logged under O2-R (despite the fact that the sensor is in the front & intuitively you'd think O2-F would be the correct parameter, not that I have 1st hand experience with this :coy: ).

Also, assuming you're using MMCD, make sure in the preferences section you have the correct vehicle selected. There are 2 choices - 1 for DSMs & 1 for the 3000GT. If 3000GT is selected your readings will be way wrong, not that I have 1st hand experience with this, either. :coy: :coy:
 
Yes i am using mmcd but on the preferences i dont see any choice between 1g or 3000gt.
I did a leak test it came out ok i had to adjust my bov because it was set on soft,
Car is running pretty good on 11 psi no fuel cut but still a lot of knock from 4000rpm up to 6500

This is the last log


rpm 3500 knock 0 02-r 0,41v

rpm 4031 knock 0 02-r 0,82v

rpm 4500 knock 16 02-r 0,80v

rpm 5062 knock 19 02-r 0,76v

rpm 5500 knock 27 02-r 0,74v

rpm 6000 knock 33 02-r 0,62v

rpm 6468 knock 30 02-r 0,25v

ftrl-118,7%

ftrm-100%

ftrh92,9%

Any suggestions about the knock? or is this a lifter problem
Can i adjust this with the translator?
thanks ,

First i am gonna reed the link above :thumb:
 
goonie said:
Yes i am using mmcd but on the preferences i dont see any choice between 1g or 3000gt.
I did a leak test it came out ok i had to adjust my bov because it was set on soft,
Car is running pretty good on 11 psi no fuel cut but still a lot of knock from 4000rpm up to 6500

This is the last log


rpm 3500 knock 0 02-r 0,41v

rpm 4031 knock 0 02-r 0,82v

rpm 4500 knock 16 02-r 0,80v

rpm 5062 knock 19 02-r 0,76v

rpm 5500 knock 27 02-r 0,74v

rpm 6000 knock 33 02-r 0,62v

rpm 6468 knock 30 02-r 0,25v

ftrl-118,7%

ftrm-100%

ftrh92,9%

Any suggestions about the knock? or is this a lifter problem
Can i adjust this with the translator?
thanks ,

First i am gonna reed the link above :thumb:


When you open up MMCD you can click on the tab at the top of the screen & 1 of the choices is Options. Under Options is Preferences. Under Preferences is Vehicle. Your choices are DSM or 3/S (3000GT/Stealth). Make sure you're on DSM. ;)

What were the results of your boost leak test? What did you pressurize the system to & how long did it hold?

As for your log, you need to do a 3rd gear pull from roughly 2500 rpm to redline. Log RPM, Knock, Timing, & O2 Voltage. You need to have more samples to evaluate what's going on - 6 or 7 data points is not enough. Post up a complete log & I'm sure all the experienced tuners on here (myself not really included) can help you out. :thumb:
 
Gromit said:
When you open up MMCD you can click on the tab at the top of the screen & 1 of the choices is Options. Under Options is Preferences. Under Preferences is Vehicle. Your choices are DSM or 3/S (3000GT/Stealth). Make sure you're on DSM. ;)

What were the results of your boost leak test? What did you pressurize the system to & how long did it hold?

As for your log, you need to do a 3rd gear pull from roughly 2500 rpm to redline. Log RPM, Knock, Timing, & O2 Voltage. You need to have more samples to evaluate what's going on - 6 or 7 data points is not enough. Post up a complete log & I'm sure all the experienced tuners on here (myself not really included) can help you out. :thumb:

I looked at my logger for the preferences but it only shows a list with custom sensors,
nothing about vehicel type
I am gonna check my timing and do another boost test pressurizing true the bov line
i did not make a pull to red line because of all the knock,first i want to try to reduce the knock before making a pull to redline
thanks,:thumb:
 
goonie said:
I looked at my logger for the preferences but it only shows a list with custom sensors,
nothing about vehicel type
I am gonna check my timing and do another boost test pressurizing true the bov line
i did not make a pull to red line because of all the knock,first i want to try to reduce the knock before making a pull to redline
thanks,:thumb:


What version of MMCD do you have? The latest is v1.8. Under Options at the top you should find a list of choices that include:

Alarms
Preferences
Sensors
About MMCD

If you select Preferences, you'll see a new screen with things like:

COM
Units
EGRT
Vehicle, etc.

When I downloaded the program it default set-up to 3000GT for the vehicle type. Until you are certain yours is set for the correct vehicle, your knock values are probably not correct. If you have an older version, get the latest 1 before doing more logs. ;)

And definitely a good idea to stay out of the upper RPM's where you show all the knock for now. :thumb:
 
Gromit said:
What version of MMCD do you have? The latest is v1.8. Under Options at the top you should find a list of choices that include:

Alarms
Preferences
Sensors
About MMCD

If you select Preferences, you'll see a new screen with things like:

COM
Units
EGRT
Vehicle, etc.

When I downloaded the program it default set-up to 3000GT for the vehicle type. Until you are certain yours is set for the correct vehicle, your knock values are probably not correct. If you have an older version, get the latest 1 before doing more logs. ;)

And definitely a good idea to stay out of the upper RPM's where you show all the knock for now. :thumb:

Yeah i think i got an old one it came with the logger i bought
The version is v.1.4c
Do you know where i can download the newer version?

I did lean out the wot knob on the translator 1 step and the knock reduced with 10 counts
the knockcount is 20 at 6500 rpm now
It seems that the knock is apearing when my timing drops below 20*
But for the moment my starter is wrecked so have to fix that first before i go on
Thanks for the input and i will keep you posted:thumb:
 
goonie said:
Yeah i think i got an old one it came with the logger i bought
The version is v.1.4c
Do you know where i can download the newer version?

I did lean out the wot knob on the translator 1 step and the knock reduced with 10 counts
the knockcount is 20 at 6500 rpm now
It seems that the knock is apearing when my timing drops below 20*
But for the moment my starter is wrecked so have to fix that first before i go on
Thanks for the input and i will keep you posted:thumb:

It detects knock, then pulls timing, not the other way around. :thumb:
 
Well....... after a proper leaktest, a bunch of leaks, and timing adjust,and the new mmcd software(thank you rookie1:thumb: ).
I did another run ,and from what i think it looks a lot better.
Can you guys tell me what you think,and maybe what to change on my settings.

rpm injd knck o2-r tps tima injp mafs

4750 78,9 2 0,78 99,2 18 19,9ms 1599hz

5093 84.3 1 0.78 99.6 18 19.9 1599

5281 85.1 0 0.80 99.6 19 19.4 1599

5500 92.1 0 0.78 99.6 21 20.2 1599

6000 90.6 0 0.78 99.6 22 18.1 1599

6468 90.6 0 0.80 99.6 20 16.8 1599

6750 96.0 0 0.80 99.6 18 17.1 1599

7000 92.1 0 0.82 99.6 17 15.8 1599

It seems that 99.6 is the max i can get from my tps i have to check my throtle cable
Fuel trims are;
ftrl-82.8%
ftrm-100%
ftrh-100%
Let me know what you guys think.
thanks.
 
That log looks so much better :cool: . If you notice your injectors are very close to maxing out and I wouldn't push them any past redline. You are fine for now but when you want to turn up the boost some more you will definately need some injectors that flow a little more. You did have a tiny bit of knock up in the mid range but I wouldn't worry about that. Things look a whole lot better than the last log and it doesn't look like anything needs to be adjusted. I can't see anything really wrong with that log, so if the car feels better then good deal. :thumb:
 
goonie said:
Well....... after a proper leaktest, a bunch of leaks, and timing adjust,and the new mmcd software(thank you rookie1:thumb: ).
I did another run ,and from what i think it looks a lot better.
Can you guys tell me what you think,and maybe what to change on my settings.

rpm injd knck o2-r tps tima injp mafs

4750 78,9 2 0,78 99,2 18 19,9ms 1599hz

5093 84.3 1 0.78 99.6 18 19.9 1599

5281 85.1 0 0.80 99.6 19 19.4 1599

5500 92.1 0 0.78 99.6 21 20.2 1599

6000 90.6 0 0.78 99.6 22 18.1 1599

6468 90.6 0 0.80 99.6 20 16.8 1599

6750 96.0 0 0.80 99.6 18 17.1 1599

7000 92.1 0 0.82 99.6 17 15.8 1599

It seems that 99.6 is the max i can get from my tps i have to check my throtle cable
Fuel trims are;
ftrl-82.8%
ftrm-100%
ftrh-100%
Let me know what you guys think.
thanks.


99.6& on the TPS is fine. As long as your throttle plate closes fully the ECU considers it to be wide open anywhere above 90%, I believe. No need to try & squeak out that extra 0.4%. Since you've verified that it does, indeed, reach WOT there's no need to log TPS on future runs. You'll get more samples per second without it. :thumb:

Your FTRL seems to indicate you're running quite rich at idle & low rpm cruise.

As Alex99gst pointed out, your duty cycles are getting kind of high - most folks shoot for 85% or less. The larger injectors should take care of that for you. Make sure you get an AFPR to go with that larger fuel pump, if you don't already have 1. ;)
 
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