The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Post a Question

exhaust manifold to turbo bolts - FFWD or OEM? Stainless studs

Please Support ExtremePSI

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jim97gst

jim97gst

20+ Year Contributor
482
3
Aug 2, 2002
Bethel Park, Pennsylvania
My turbo to manifold gasket blew out, so I need to get in there to replace it. I thought I would replace the 4 bolts at the same time, as I didn't replace them with the turbo install like I probably should have done. I'm trying to decide between OEM and FFWD SS bolts. They are about the same price. Anyone have any experience with the FFWD ones?

http://www.ffwdconnection.com/boltkits.shtml
 
awdtalontsi1992 said:
SS bolts are the best bet. They won't rust. Use two washers on the bolts so there is less chance of them sticking. I put antisieze on mine for added protection.
Click to expand...

I am sorry but that is wrong. SS is a not nearly as strong as the hardened steel you will get with the oem bolts. When taking them out you will likely find that the threads will be junk and start to strip then bind and break. Like Dan I have used the ffwd bolts. I broke one just installing it and I broke 2 more when I had to take them out.
 
jim97gst said:
Thanks for the link. They have good prices on OEM stuff.

Is there any reason to get new washers, or will the old ones do fine?
Click to expand...


The old ones will do fine as long as you have all eight.
Using the two washers per bolt is the key to not breaking them.
And yes jnztuning is your only place to buy oem parts.
They have anything oem thats available at the best prices.
I reccomend calling them to place your order though.
Eric and Josh are very busy so leave a message if they dont answer and they will call you back.
 
I had the ffwd bolts,
he sweared to me up and down they woudln't snap.

to be sure that there were no other variables, i chased the turbine threads as i always do, and used ultra high temp antiseize on the threads.

the damn bolts fused themselves into the turbine.
one of them snapped just from normal heat cycling.
then when i went to reove the other three all 3 broke with very little effort.

OEM is the only way to go.

just be sure to chase the bolt threads with a die every time, and run a tap through the turbine... every time.

If you've put alot of miles on your bolts, it doesn't hurt to replace them from time to time.
cheap insurance against a big hassle.


the key point here is that the arp's don't expand the same as oem hardened ones do. the manifold gets hot, expands, and those bolts don't. SNAP.

OEM FTW
 
OEM from slowboy with high temp antiseize work great for me.
 
This is abit off topic but what about the SS head to mani studs? Im going to swap mine this spring & when you read the vendors info about SS, their supposed to be much better (or so they say) but I already knew the issues with using SS turbo bolts so my thinking was the same thing applies, use OEM for these as well?

To the OP (not that it needs to be said again), OEM turbo/mani bolt with the proper OEM washers is the way to go. I too used the 2600 high temp anti seize when I installed mine 2 years ago. Never had an issue with them coming lose, I torqued them via the instructions in the shop manuel (final torque is in degrees & not ft/lbs), I guess I'll find out this spring how well the antiseize held up.
 
Daren - The ARP SS head to exhaust manifold studs do work well, especially if you are going to be using a 3/8" or thicker flanged manifold and a heavy turbo (like a 40R or 42R).

Personally, if you are just running a small setup, it is not worth the extra money spent on SS stuff. I would just use new OEM studs, nuts and washers.

As well for the turbo to manifold bolts, I would stick with the OEM hardened steel ones with two washers and retorque them after a few heat cycles. I would replace these bolts every time that I removed the turbo, and chase the threads to keep them clean.

The high temp antisieze won't do much...it just melts off.

Permatex does make a copper based high temp gasket maker though. I have had good luck with that sealing. I have used it on my old setup (PTE T4 SC6181S and DNP T4 manifold) with NO metal gasket and it held up great.

Personally, I would just stick with new OEM hardware, properly torqued.
 
twicks69 said:
Daren - The ARP SS head to exhaust manifold studs do work well, especially if you are going to be using a 3/8" or thicker flanged manifold and a heavy turbo (like a 40R or 42R).

Personally, if you are just running a small setup, it is not worth the extra money spent on SS stuff. I would just use new OEM studs, nuts and washers.

As well for the turbo to manifold bolts, I would stick with the OEM hardened steel ones with two washers and retorque them after a few heat cycles. I would replace these bolts every time that I removed the turbo, and chase the threads to keep them clean.

The high temp antisieze won't do much...it just melts off.

Permatex does make a copper based high temp gasket maker though. I have had good luck with that sealing. I have used it on my old setup (PTE T4 SC6181S and DNP T4 manifold) with NO metal gasket and it held up great.

Personally, I would just stick with new OEM hardware, properly torqued.
Click to expand...
Copper antisieze is rated at 2000 degrees. If you get something that hot you have a problem.
 
project_tsi said:
I've ran those ARP bolts, they are nothing but junk. They bind up, and will twist the head right off. OEM FTW.
Click to expand...




I was wondering the same thing as Daren. Just so it's clear to everyone, Dan, are you saying that those bolts in particular are garbage? Or are you denouncing ARP in general?
 
daren_p said:
No, he's talking specifically the SS turbo to mani bolts, not ARP in general. We all know their head studs as well as other fastners work great :thumb:
Click to expand...






Thanks. Just wanted to make it clear to everyone reading through the thread.
 
Just wondering what you guys think of ss exhaust manifold studs. A mechanic friend of mine says that they are not good. Would like to hear some opinions from those who have used them. Thanks. Shawn:talon:
 
Thanks for the link. I searched stainless steel but did not come up with that thread. So I guess I will be ok for the ss studs in the head. I have ordered oem bolts for the manifold to turbo so that shouldn't be an issue. Again, thanks.:thumb:
 
Just to add to this thread I bought some of the ARP SS bolts from extremepsi. Bam broke two off the bat, waste of money. That was with the recommended arp lube btw.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!

Similar threads

kxcntry99
Exhaust Manifold | Use Studs or Bolts?
Replies
19
Views
14K
turbo addict
  • Question
T3 turbo studs or bolts?
Replies
1
Views
741
birdygoesboom
birdygoesboom
snowboard1
Exhaust manifold studs
Replies
1
Views
1K
blackGSX2g
blackGSX2g
Turbo to manifold gasket, use copper or stainless gasket?
Replies
18
Views
23K
aero_sallee
aero_sallee
Paintballaa5
Exhaust Manifold to Head Bolts
Replies
8
Views
1K
Kapok6
Kapok6
Boosted Fabrication
ECM Tuning
ExtremePSI
FIBA Motorsport
Fuel Injector Clinic
Innovation Products
Jacks Transmissions
JNZ Tuning
Kiggly Racing
Morrison Fabrications
Rix Racing
RockAuto
STM Tuned
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top