The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Exhaust manifold gasket leak?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tay97gst

10+ Year Contributor
476
34
Dec 20, 2011
Plaistow, New Hampshire
Just trying to confirm my suspicion. I have a couple videos trying to pinpoint exactly whats happening. I went looking for an exhaust leak because i can smell fumes when driving with the windows open FYI.

Does this sound like gasket leak "ticking"? Its hard to hear but it sounds like two marbles hitting each other at like 4bps.
View My Video

This video shows a lot of gunk around the exhaust manifold, not positive its from the gasket but maybe someone will tell me what its from.
View My Video

This video shows smoke coming from the manifold while seafoaming.
Video - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

Feel free to correct me if im wrong :)
 
The gunk is oil leaking from your valve cover. It does appear that the gasket is leaking in the middle, the gasket looks to have a little carbon on it.
 
The gunk is oil leaking from your valve cover. It does appear that the gasket is leaking in the middle, the gasket looks to have a little carbon on it.

Interesting, should i be able to see the oil like running from the valve cover? Ive never noticed any oil watching it idle but just saw all that gunk so knew it had to be coming from somewhere. So replace the valve cover gasket as well?
 
It usually just seeps out so you won't see it leaking. I would get some purple power cleaner and clean it up first than change the gasket.
 
But as far as the exhaust manifold leaking? Do you agree?

After watching the seafoam video it definitely appears that it is leaking from somewhere. I would start with the manifold to head and manifold to turbo gaskets, than from there if it is still leaking replace the o2 housing and downpipe gaskets.
 
After watching the seafoam video it definitely appears that it is leaking from somewhere. I would start with the manifold to head and manifold to turbo gaskets, than from there if it is still leaking replace the o2 housing and downpipe gaskets.

Ok so to go about changing the gaskets.. should i unbolt the turbo from the manifold first, then unbolt the manifold from the head? Also, do i have to remove any lines from the turbo when i unbolt it from the manifold or should it be ok to leave the lines attached to the turbo?
 
Ok so to go about changing the gaskets.. should i unbolt the turbo from the manifold first, then unbolt the manifold from the head? Also, do i have to remove any lines from the turbo when i unbolt it from the manifold or should it be ok to leave the lines attached to the turbo?

Just leave the turbo in place and unbolt the manifold from the head and turbine housing. You will have to pry it away from the head to slide the manifold from the stud on the o2 housing.
 
Just leave the turbo in place and unbolt the manifold from the head and turbine housing. You will have to pry it away from the head to slide the manifold from the stud on the o2 housing.

Oh ok. I was under the impression that the turbo was suspended by being bolted to the manifold, so that if i took the manifold off the head the turbo would just come with it. That makes it a bit easier i guess :thumb:
Do you know which gasket the turbo needs, 6cm or 7cm? Still on the stock t25.
 
Oh ok. I was under the impression that the turbo was suspended by being bolted to the manifold, so that if i took the manifold off the head the turbo would just come with it. That makes it a bit easier i guess :thumb:
Do you know which gasket the turbo needs, 6cm or 7cm? Still on the stock t25.

You'll need a 6cm gasket.
 
Last edited:
The turbo will stay in place because of the drain line and coolant lines. There is no need to unbolt the turbo just to replace the manifold gaskets. If you go to rockauto.com and get the fel-pro ES72787 it includes all gaskets for the turbo for like 25 bucks. You will also need part number EG107 which is a dnj mls exhaust gasket and is like 9 bucks.
 
I would try to keep the turbo hanging on things i learned that when i broke my oil return line get something to support it if you are leaving it on the line.
 
Alright gentlemen, ordered all the gaskets and will probably put them on next weekend. Probably slap on a new coat of paint on the VC while im at it ;) I'll let you know how it goes/ beg for help if i need it! :dsm:
 
I'm just gonna bring this up one more time before i go to take off the manifold. Are there any tricks to get the bolts off without breaking them? I know im gonna use a lot of pb blaster the day before but im really scared they're just gonna be so rusty that they either break or don't budge. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
 
And as far as the tool to use, just a standard socket right? An impact driver is a no no?

Yeah, just stick with the hand tools and be easy. If any of them start to bind up as they are coming out, stop and go back the other way. Continue to go back and forth until they come all the way out without using too much force.
 
Sometimes when you go to take the bolt off the stud comes with it if you remove the bottom middle stud be sure to put RTV sealer on it before reinstalling it that bolt shares a passage with an oil gallery.

IT doesn't thread into the oil galley, it threads into the oil drain in the head. There is no pressure there.
 
Bryan I don't mean to be a stickler but have you actually had good luck with that head/manifold gasket? I'm in the neighborhood for the whole set and leaning toward 4layer OEM
 
Bryan I don't mean to be a stickler but have you actually had good luck with that head/manifold gasket? I'm in the neighborhood for the whole set and leaning toward 4layer OEM

IF you are running a stock manifold that isn't warped than it will work fine. I've currently got one on my 96 and it is holding up well.

You still need some sort of thread sealant on that one stud, or it will leak.

I've been installing them for years with no sealant. You just need to tighten the stud into the head nice and tight. It will seal perfectly fine.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top