EVO III 16g and big 16: How can I tell the difference?

[1gdsmnubie]

Friend of mine has an EVO III 16g don't remember if it's a big 16 or not and i'm new to dsm's. is there a way to tell the diff? he said $180 can i go wrong wether it's a big 16 or not?

 

[silverbullett]

Used or new?

 

[rich3389]

Make sure it doesnt say "EVOIII GT" on the housing because that is a cheap knock off that you dont want, also check for shaft play. Side to side play is ok as long as its only a little, but make sure it has no in and out play.

 

[1gdsmnubie]

used put it on about 15k ago

 

[1gdsmnubie]

if i remember correctly he paid about 500 for it

 

[FL_TalonTsi]

Hmm even if it is used, $180 is a great price. If it is bad take it to get it rebuilt, should only cost around $200 for a good rebuild and there you will have yourself a basically brand new evo3 16g for $380. Can't beat that.

 

[Talesin]

There's the small 16g, the big 16G, and the Evo III 16G. Three different turbos... the E3-16G is better/more desirable than either of the others.

As noted, make sure it doesn't say 'Evo 3 GT' on the compressor housing. Crappy chinese knockoff, the compressor wheel is made of that cheap powdered metal stuff instead of being properly made.

If it's still on the car, check for shaft play there... the small amount of side-side wiggle SHOULD only be there when the center cartridge isn't primed with oil. Once it's on and full, there should be zero wiggle, or in-out play. But that's for perfect condition. A rebuild should only run you about $150-200 (not including shop fees for de/installation on the car), and is a worthwhile investment whenever you buy a used turbo that you plan to keep for a good long while.

 

[1gdsmnubie]

he said it was a straight bolt on, dont have to worry about blowing anything up, that true?

 

[Talesin]

Just so long as you're running at stock boost levels, yeah, though you might want to replace your oil return line at the same time, and bump up to a 2G exhaust manifold/O2 housing if you have the extra scratch laying around.

If you're above stock boost, bear in mind that the E3-16G flows a whole lot more air than the 14b, and cooler. Meaning denser air, and you're going to run out of injector capacity at a lower psi level. The up side is, you'll also be making a lot more power at the same (or lower) boost level. Colder air = denser air = more power output.

 

[1gdsmnubie]

not gunna be running anything other than stock boost for now, it's gunna b somewhat of a project car due to a suspended license. so time and money is something i'll have a good bit of

 

[1gdsmnubie]

and am i gunna have to worry about IC problems? i'm not mechanically inept just dont understand alot about turbos

 

[1gdsmnubie]

OK windows vista sux and i jsut get that lil blue circle when i click on edit post so i dont have to repky everytime sumthing else pops into my head, but anyway, i see evo3 o2 housings, guessing i need that one or will a 3" be better oir does it really even matter?

 

[bling5tatus]

If you free up your exh system too much (ie. 3 inch) you will begin to have problems with boost creep using that e316g. You will need to either use an external wg, port the internal wg/flapper, or using one of Mr. Peeper's awesome mwga's (modified waste gate actuator)... just something to think about. And no, bolting a bigger turbo on is not necessarily a "bolt on and go" kind of mod. Maybe running the same boost level, but ideally you buy a larger turbo to run more boost. If you're not maxing out the turbo you have now, you might focus your money on upgrading the parts needed to really "push" your turbo.... THEN upgrade to a larger size.

Either way it's up to you, I wanted to throw that out there for you.

 

[1gdsmnubie]

i plan on puttin money into this motor i jsut dont wanna make mistakes and end up having to rebuild everything, head was just done b-4 the car was parked, twice ### the idiot who set the timing was 2 teeth off!

 

[bling5tatus]

All I'm saying is, make sure you have the fuel control modifications necessary to run the amount of boost that you and I both know you will end up wanting to run.... instead of later on finding out, oh hey, I'm too lean to run that boost, now I need to buy more things.... or, oh hey, there goes my motor, but boy it was fast for a minute.

 

[romeen]

Friend of mine has an EVO III 16g don't remember if it's a big 16 or not and i'm new to dsm's. is there a way to tell the diff?

As previously mentioned, Mitsubishi makes 3 versions of the 16G turbo:
1) Small 16G
2) Big 16G
3) EVO III 16G

The two easiest ways to identify an E3 16G is by the numbers on the compressor housing and the shape of the turbine housing.

I.D. # on the E3 16G is 49178-01470 (numbers cast on compressor housing except for the "47" which is stamped).

In this picture you can see the unique shape of the turbo-manifold flange on the EVO III turbine housing on the right compared to the rectangular shape found on the small 16G seen on the left (same for B16G).

 

[subie22]

you may also want to upgrade the maf too. Such as 2g maf, I would imgaine that the 1g maf will run out of steam soon.

 

[Splitpi]

Just do all the free mods, rewire your fuel pump, slap the 16G on, run at stock boosts and enjoy the few extra horse power.

Later, replace the head studs with ARPS, get a new clutch, purchase a larger FMIC, purchase 650cc injectors and a fuel control system, a 255lph fuel pump and FPR, Manual Boost Controller, a boost gauge and enjoy the power.

 

[1gdsmnubie]

Turbo turned out to be a scam, phone number was fake. Still looking for a larger turbo and my intake tube was messed up and beyond any type of good repair. I found an Injen intake and i can get a 2g MAF and i have seen a few people that have used some sort of connector for the 2g MAF to connect to the 1g factory clip, or is that something that would be trying to steal my money too?