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Evo 3 16G, and a warbro 255 but what else am i going to need to reach my goals?

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2GEcpliseluvr

15+ Year Contributor
83
4
Jan 18, 2006
Grover Beach, California
I have a 7 bolt gst, the goal im trying to reach for my car, is around 20 psi or as close to that as i can come on daily driven, suporting mods i have are upper and lower innercooler piping, greddy type s reciculating bov, magnacore wires, NGK iridium IXs, hks sponge, 3" down pipe,3" cat delete, 3 " cat back, Turbo XS MBC, i have a boost gauge, i also removed the boost silinoid restricter so im already at 12 psi, i wana go with a Evo 3 16G, and a warbrol 255 but what else am i going to need to reach my goals?
 
So you would notice a difference once you step on the gas under high boost but as far as everything else goes it will be un-affected by the increase pressure. But once you step on the gas the increased pressure will push out more gas under boost.. That would be the general idea correct?
 
ou would not notice any difference. The stock fuel pressure regulator is designed to increase the ammount of fuel in the rail by the ammount of boost.

The more boost, the more fuel.

It's a stock feature on turbo cars, you obviously need more fuel under boost then vaccume.... so the factory has come up with a linear rising rate FPR to cope with added air.

Hope that helped :thumb:
 
ou would not notice any difference. The stock fuel pressure regulator is designed to increase the ammount of fuel in the rail by the ammount of boost.

The more boost, the more fuel.

It's a stock feature on turbo cars, you obviously need more fuel under boost then vaccume.... so the factory has come up with a linear rising rate FPR to cope with added air.

Hope that helped :thumb:

I understand that. But if you have a 190 for example I will make more power with the 190 at 15 psi than i would with the stock pump.

Or there won't be any difference because its the same amount of air and once you turn up the boost the stock pump wouldn't be able to handle that and thats where the benifit of having a stronger pump comes in. and it would be able to flow more fuel to keep up with the increase of air.

The reason I'm slighlty confused is because this guy back in austin said he bought a fuel pump for is 240 with the SR20 swap and he was running the stock turbo but he said that he could feel the difference with the new pump.

The way it sounds to me that you are explaining it is that there will be no difference becuase you are using the same amount of air so the car is going to pump the same amount of fuel.

right now I don't have a wide band but my a/f gauge doesn't ever read rich when im just driving around. But on the stock 2g head and intake manifold it would. Also now when ever i floor it the gauge does read rich but the light is not in the same place it was before. Its closer to the yellow side.. There are lights on in rich and stoic. before its was just soild rich...

Back to point if i had the 190 the gauge would read rich because its just pumping more fuel because it can compensate for the increase of boost.

so at the same psi the 190 will pump more fuel than the stock pump is what im getting at.
 
so at the same psi the 190 will pump more fuel than the stock pump is what im getting at.
It will not is what we are getting at, unless something is wrong. How much fuel your ECU put into the engine has nothing to with your pump, it has everything to do with how much air your MAF has metered. Your friend back in Austin doesn't know what he is talking about.
 
It doesn't work like that GSXeclipse97.... A fuel pump is a safety feature, not a power adder. It allows you to safely turn up boost while still having enough fuel flow to supply your engine with the pressure needed to keep up with the added air.

A fuel pump in itself does not make power... neither do injectors.... or a logger... or a fuel pressure regulator... etc. etc. They allow you to safely turn up the boost (which makes power).

Your friend is nuts.
 
"there won't be any difference because its the same amount of air and once you turn up the boost the stock pump wouldn't be able to handle that and thats where the benifit of having a stronger pump comes in. and it would be able to flow more fuel to keep up with the increase of air."


You said so yourself. :thumb:

That's the reason for upgrading pumps. :cool:
 
Nah, that's what these forums are for. You'd look like an ass if you tryed arguing with us for days about how fuel pumps added horsepower ROFL .

You gotta start off somewhere, better to start off the right way by asking questions. :thumb:

At least you were corrected online instead of in front a group of your buddies. ;)
 
ou would not notice any difference. The stock fuel pressure regulator is designed to increase the ammount of fuel in the rail by the ammount of boost.

The more boost, the more fuel.

It's a stock feature on turbo cars, you obviously need more fuel under boost then vaccume.... so the factory has come up with a linear rising rate FPR to cope with added air.

Hope that helped :thumb:
Just to be nitpicky:p , the fuel pressure regulator does not give you more fuel unless its a rising rate fpr (Totally different animal; not neccesary for our platform). If it does deliver more fuel on boost, then it is malfunctioning or overrunning.

Injector pulswidth-- or the time the injector is open during the intake stroke-- determines the amount of fuel delivered into the cylinders. The fuel pressure regulator is simply there to keep the fuel pressure at the injector oriface at the same relative pressure. if there is 20 psi in the head runners then the fuel pressure has to go up 20 more psi than base to maintain the consistancy needed to calculate the correct pulsewidth. In otherwords the fpr is only there to keep the injectors flowing exactly the same cc/min. The open time (which is controled by the ECU) determines the amount of fuel injected.
 
Just to be nitpicky:p , the fuel pressure regulator does not give you more fuel unless its a rising rate fpr (Totally different animal; not neccesary for our platform). If it does deliver more fuel on boost, then it is malfunctioning or overrunning.

Injector pulswidth-- or the time the injector is open during the intake stroke-- determines the amount of fuel delivered into the cylinders. The fuel pressure regulator is simply there to keep the fuel pressure at the injector oriface at the same relative pressure. if there is 20 psi in the head runners then the fuel pressure has to go up 20 more psi than base to maintain the consistancy needed to calculate the correct pulsewidth. In otherwords the fpr is only there to keep the injectors flowing exactly the same cc/min. The open time (which is controled by the ECU) determines the amount of fuel injected.

Ah crap! What the heck am I thinking? I knew that!!!! :coy:

.... I've been dealing with my (several) Honda friends issues trying to boost for too long now. I was thinking of an FMU. (or fuel pressure riser). :toobad:


I appoligize for that mis-information. I'm only an idiot on Tuesdays (even though it happenned on friday :shhh: )


Thank you for pointing that out DSM-onster! :thumb:
 
Injector pulswidth-- or the time the injector is open during the intake stroke--
Just to be nippicky :D, injectors do not just open during the intake stoke.

http://www.vfaq.com/TMO/Tuning-Tips.htm
Now, for the question of injector duty cycle. Well, the logger spits out how long the injectors are being opened in ms. What we need is the time available to the injector.

One might think the max amount of fuel an injector can squirt into the cylinder would be limited to the time that the intake valve is open. But that is a very short time relative to the entire four-stroke time that is really available. The injector can squirt fuel onto the back of the injector while it is closed and let it pile up there. This is actually done almost all the time at RPMs over 5000 (maybe lower, too) and is the reason why the intake valves get all crudded up over time with an accumulation of carbon. This is also why you should check and clean your intake valves occasionally.
 
The injector can squirt fuel onto the back of the injector while it is closed and let it pile up there.

The fuel piles on the back of the intake valve, not on the injector ;)
 
dsm-onster said:
Injector pulswidth-- or the time the injector is open during the intake stroke--
Just to be nippicky :D, injectors do not just open during the intake stoke.

http://www.vfaq.com/TMO/Tuning-Tips.htm

LOL I misspelled pulsewidth too. But thanx. Now we all know exactly what he!! is happening.

96gsdsm, we're all asses becasue we love our DSMs:thumb: :dsm: :talon: :laser: . It's a prerequisite. We're pissy because they're broken and we fix our own junk so we know just enough to get ourselves in trouble.
 
How many miles are on the 7bolt? If your in the neighborhood of 100k your motor should be find, and i really wouldnt worry about it. Hell, not much you can do about it untill it happens anyways, so i wouldnt worry about it. My 7bolt held together just fine, running a act2600, and i have 0 signes of CW.
You always hear of CW, because those of us who didnt have it, dont talk about it.

As far as the setup goes, everything people have told you is pretty accurate. You say you only want 20psi on a 16g. But what about tomorrow when you want bigger. My suggestion, is buy once. Yes, a 190 rewire is perfect, and no fpr. What happens when you want bigger. Now you have to get a 255 and the fpr. Just buy it now. Same with INJ, bigger is always better. You can control your fuel with DSMLink. I ran 780s on my e16g, total over kill, but i was only running 70%INJ Duty Cycle, so i wasnt killing them.
My personal opinion is you dont want to have just enough to support what you have. I believe in overkilling all my supporting mods, for the safty of the motor.
 
How many miles are on the 7bolt? If your in the neighborhood of 100k your motor should be find, and i really wouldnt worry about it. Hell, not much you can do about it untill it happens anyways, so i wouldnt worry about it. My 7bolt held together just fine, running a act2600, and i have 0 signes of CW.
You always hear of CW, because those of us who didnt have it, dont talk about it.

As far as the setup goes, everything people have told you is pretty accurate. You say you only want 20psi on a 16g. But what about tomorrow when you want bigger. My suggestion, is buy once. Yes, a 190 rewire is perfect, and no fpr. What happens when you want bigger. Now you have to get a 255 and the fpr. Just buy it now. Same with INJ, bigger is always better. You can control your fuel with DSMLink. I ran 780s on my e16g, total over kill, but i was only running 70%INJ Duty Cycle, so i wasnt killing them.
My personal opinion is you dont want to have just enough to support what you have. I believe in overkilling all my supporting mods, for the safty of the motor.

Most crankwalk cases I've seen happen between 80 and 100k miles, but that's okay.... crankwalk is over rated. :beatentodeath:


My 96 GSX had 220k on the clock and still ran like it had a brand new motor..... everything origional.... down to the turbo. :cool:

As far as overkill goes... you can pretty much max out an evo 3 with a 190 re-wired and some 650cc injectors. I'd like to see 400+whp out of my set-up once I'm fully dialed in.
 
As far as overkill goes... you can pretty much max out an evo 3 with a 190 re-wired and some 650cc injectors. I'd like to see 400+whp out of my set-up once I'm fully dialed in.

Wont max that baby out without some race gas or meth. From what all the local guys tell me 400HP outta the E3 is pretty tough/maxxing the shit outta it. Not trying to say you are wrong, its just that my goals with the E3 were the same, and then everyone shot me down WTF
 
its can be done its just easier with a bigger turbo. just like 300whp on a 14b it can be done but thats alot of work when you could just get a bigger turbo and hit it with no problems. just why go through the trouble when there is an easier way to do it
 
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