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Evie

It's my daily headache. I love it tho!

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Mostly Stock car. I've done some handling work. I got Ecmlink v3 and the typical gauges. Oil pressure and water temp are next in gauges. Other than that I plan on throwing a FP manifold and a E3-16G eventually. Still on stock fuel system. upping to bigger injectors, a wally 255 and a afpr before I get a bigger turbo. I might get a 14b and all the fixins from a buddy for cheap.
 
I thought the car blew a head gasket.... Just cracked the exhaust manifold right above the water pipe. I pulled the head, inspected the head gasket, and realized the issue. Knowing the motor was original and not knowing the health of the rest of it, I went through with pulling it and dropping in a new rebuilt long block I had.

Dropped the new block in, started up first crank, and the stub shaft for the oil pump balance shaft backed itself out and dropped into the pan. Less than 3 miles away from home.
 
It's been quite a while since I last updated this. The car has been through quite a bit though. After the stub shaft incident, I ordered a new BSE kit and realized the guy I bought the motor from didn't install the balance shaft bearings to block the oil holes. So the car was driving around with less than 10psi of oil pressure no matter the RPM. I pulled the motor out to inspect the damage. The stub shaft smacked the crank counterweight a few times and left quite a decent mark in it. The few miles the car drove with no stub shaft killed the oil pump and killed every bearing in the motor including the cam bearings.

Fast forward a few months and I acquired a built shortblock from Performance Partout. John over there was quick and responsive to get it shipped to me. Once it was out I made sure the bottom end was actually built, made sure the balance shaft delete was done correctly, cleaned it, installed new gaskets everywhere and sent it. About 2-300 miles after it went it, the motor started to eat timing belts. It would take chunks out of the outside portion of the belt, almost like the taller oil pan bolt was installed where it can eat the belt. Yet, the damage wasn't on the inner part of the belt by the front case, it was more so by the motor mount side of it. I posted all about it on here, asking questions seeing if anyone could help. No one knew exactly what was wrong. Anyway, the motor was leaking from a botched oil pan installation, it needed a new clutch, and I was going to figure out the belt issue. Once I pulled the oil pan off, and saw the glitter I knew there was definitely something else wrong. I took the oil pump apart and it was dead, I started pulling rod caps off, then the girdle, and each bearing got worse and worse. I decided to call it quits for a while, and start to learn.
 
Sounds like motors and you have some oretty bad luck LOL, don't give up! Ma performance sells built shortblocks with a warranty, that way you have some sort of guarantee!
Definitely not giving up. Currently throwing a stock bottom end I got from a running car. Throwing an hx35 on it and sending it till she blows. I'm going to be building my own shortblock here soon with wisecos and howard rods.
 
Man, that's quite a string of unfortunate events. Makes it difficult to trust anyone else's work.
It really does. I don't trust anyone's work but my own at this point. Took too many L's with other peoples builds. Needed to take it into my own hands. These cars are getting harder and harder to find with decent bodies and decent builds. I plan to make this one of the good ones.
 
Got the new motor in the car everything completely connected and ready to start. Only to find out I forgot to put the starter plate in between the motor and trans. Wow do I feel dumb. Starter just grinds against the flywheel, and makes a really fun time trying to start it. So now I get to separate the trans from the motor just enough to get the plate in and align the starter properly.

I did end up pushing through and finding out if the car would actually start or not. After I figured out the starter plate was missing, I went to test for fuel leaks, and found my pump wasn't getting power. Since I just installed a Walbro 450, I figured there could have been a number of issues. Turned out to be the ground for the fuel pump rewire kit was sus and needed redone. Once that was fixed, it was back to fuel leak testing. No leaks were found, I set fuel pressure with link priming the pump, and it was perfect.

It took a few cranks but it eventually fired up and idled for a second before dying on its own. I started it again and gave it a little throttle which kept it running. After a few taps of the throttle, it eventually started to idle on its own, but was idle surging while doing it. I was able to capture a log, hoping to get it looked at soon.
 
This has turned out to give me way more issues than I expected. As what happens when you're trying to rush things. Had to move the car or get it towed. I threw a maf sensor on it, and did my best to limp it home. 10 miles. I can't get the damn things to stay running long enough to finish it. I ended up fouling the spark plugs, so I got a new set tonight. Threw them in, and it tries to start, but won't stay running for more than a second or two. I've been trying to get it to run enough to set the damn timing with the 1G cas I installed, that's seeming like a huge pain in the ass at this point haha.

I feel as if speed density is really being this big of a pain in the ass, but it didn't run any better with a maf sensor, so I'm confused.
 
I'm just going to use this as a vent area for the car haha. If you guys or anyone else has some info that would help I'd love it. I'm always looking for opportunities to learn. I don't understand what the hell is going on. It has plenty of fuel. I know that. The damn thing ran at 9-10:1 AFR the whole time. I did an oil change, cause it had a lot of fuel in it. hoping I didn't wash out the oil enough to f*** up bearings or rings. It has spark, I had to get new plugs since it fouled them due to it being rich AS f***! I am mostly sure I have the injector settings correct in link. I know it has air as well. It's hard to not have air. I think this 1G Cas is really whats throwing me off. Since I have link, I should be able to just click the "non 95-96 cam sensor" button in link and it should be good, but threads on here talk about swapping injector wires.
 
Wow oh wow has it been a wild few years. I believe the last time I left this thread off I was planning on throwing a stock bottom end in with some cams, springs, and a HX35 in until the motor decided it had enough. Well fast forward a year and a half, up to a 6262 and the bottom end still held through! I had some fuel issues with my pump, and the wiring for the pump cutting fuel at 17psi. Which I was not happy with. On top of that my EBC stopped working on me. I chased wires for weeks, swapped a new EBC into the car, got my ECU checked over and I could never find out why it stopped working. After the car kept fuel cutting I decided to do the only logical next step! Pull the motor and trans, delete everything not needed in the engine bay, sand the bay down to bare metal, skin the bay of seam sealer, weld all the non needed holes in the bay shut and body fill parts that were uneven in the bay, primer, seam seal, and paint the engine bay BRIGHT PINK!

That sounds reasonable right?

Wrong.

Lets also move the harness to where the Pass airbag lived, delete all unnecessary wiring from the harness and extend the harness to each side of the bay. Delete all unnecessary wires from the engine harness and tuck the harness to a more "Race style" flying lead harness. While were at it, lets convert to a Haltech 1500 and wire in the ECU so we don't need an adapter. Then you finally end up with a build you can kinda call unique haha!

WHILE WE'RE IN THERE

Lets also decide to build the motor! Callies I beam rods, Wiseco HD pistons, Main studs for the crank, L19s and an Athena Cut ring headgasket. Throw some GSC S2s eventually in it with some kiggly springs and call it fully built! This 6262 is going to make some jam and juice here shortly!

I don't know where to stop with this build haha! Next is the drivetrain, subframe bushings, and rear brembo brakes to match the CTSV calipers up front. Maybe paint or wrap the car. I don't know. All I know is I became a glutton for power and am hunting for a fun power number.
 
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