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every gear is neutral???? help

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Project Draven

15+ Year Contributor
293
1
Mar 6, 2004
Mount Pleasant, Pennsylvania
well i finally got my ignition problem solved....thanks to everyones info on here but now i have a new problem.....i tried to catch my car in gear because my starter isn't starting my car it is just grinding.......so i went to pop it in gear and i get nothing i felt like i just coasted the whole way down.......every gear.....i had a similar problem with my talon dl it turned out that the clutch disc ripped itself apart (hub separated) so i am hopeing that is the problem.....even though i got two spare trannys i am not sure if they are any good?? (gotta love the freebies.... a whole six bolt motor with turbo and two trannys).....anyone know what this possibly could be.............


any help would be greatly appreciated once again
thanks in advance

brandon
 
your post is very confusing... let me re-state that, its a cluster.... have you checked your shifter cables? you could have also broken a shift fork inside the tranny
 
You get no feeling when you shift? Sounds like the clutch is going to me. It would probably be in your best interest to pull the tranny and have a look-see.
 
the clutch pedal feels like it has some pressure just it acts like the clutch isn't even there and that no matter what gear i put it in is neutral
 
And you said it's grinding or no? I got confused on that part. Check your slave cylinder and fluid.
 
no grinds no sounds except when i have the clutch pedal fully in i hear what i think is the throwout bearing
 
wouldn't that leave the car in gear all the time?

Correct.

To me it sounds like it could be a clutch. If your clutch seperates, the clutch won't be able to provide resistance anymore and will slip all the time, making the car feel like it's in neutral.

The problem could be a broken shift fork, but I highly doubt that. If you look in the transmission, there are three shift forks on three seperate shift rails. If one was broken, you should lose 2 gears, not all gears. Edit: you might not be able to shift gears if one breaks, it could bind up inside the transmission and prevent the rails from moving, but this isn't your case.

I think it's possible that the differential could have exploded (not likely), then your car would be free wheeling, and feel like it was in neutral.


Then again these are just possibilities, I really suggest you remove the transmission and look at that clutch. I think that's where the problem will lie.
 
Correct.

To me it sounds like it could be a clutch. If your clutch seperates, the clutch won't be able to provide resistance anymore and will slip all the time, making the car feel like it's in neutral.

The problem could be a broken shift fork, but I highly doubt that. If you look in the transmission, there are three shift forks on three seperate shift rails. If one was broken, you should lose 2 gears, not all gears. Edit: you might not be able to shift gears if one breaks, it could bind up inside the transmission and prevent the rails from moving, but this isn't your case.

I think it's possible that the differential could have exploded (not likely), then your car would be free wheeling, and feel like it was in neutral.


Then again these are just possibilities, I really suggest you remove the transmission and look at that clutch. I think that's where the problem will lie.

I agree, but also check out the master and slave cyls since they are also related, not enough pressure means not engaging/disengaging clutch. But definitely sounds like something to do with the clutch or the cyls.
 
I agree, but also check out the master and slave cyls since they are also related, not enough pressure means not engaging/disengaging clutch. But definitely sounds like something to do with the clutch or the cyls.

I'm going to have to say that the cylinders wouldn't cause this, at least not directly. Though the cylinders could be leaking, all that would do is allow the clutch to not fully disengage when it's being pressed. This would in turn be like pushing a, fully working, clutch half-way down and shifting. It would cause greater wear on the transmission synchros and eventually burn the clutch out (due to constantly being slipped). Though it would not have anything to do with the amount of pressure exerted by the clutch, nor it's holding ability.

I speak from experience here, a failing master cylinder took out the clutch in my Stealth. Came to the realization after I got it back from the shop and the pedal dropped to the floor on the way home.

You do make a good point though, while your checking the clutch, it's a good idea to check the whole system and be assured that everything is working together.
 
well i am in the process of taking my tranny out but i am stuck because my transfer case isn't coming off i've been prying it and it just pulls itself back.......i felt around on the top of the x fer case and i don't feel anymore bolts? and i also wanan point out that the one bolt by the drain plug appears to be leaking right inbetween the hole for the xfer case and the transmission but its only leaking when i put the car in the air (front end jacked up) ((((i noticed this before i began to remove it))) but bottom line i can't get the transfer case off....and yes i have the downpipe off too
 
well i pulled out my tranny........and i found most of my answers when i did......turns out that leak i thought was from my transfer case was coming from my axle seal........and the clutch disc separated from the hub.....and i also found out that the tranny wasn't on right which is what killed the clutch.......and the reason why my starter was grinding......now the main question i would like to know is how in the world did the front part of the block break off where the tranny bolts to...??????
 
well i got the new clutch kit to put in but once i get this thing all together i need to know what i can do to mount the tranny on the front (welding is not an potion because the piece of the block is missing) i was thinking of drilling a hole in the front engine mount and running a bolt and nut setup....does anyone think this will be strong enough???
 
I just had the same problem, seriously, not even a week ago :(

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258427

The front "ear" that broke off the block used to contain a dowel pin to locate the transmission onto the block. When this is missing, it allows the transmission case to misalign. this destroys clutches, bell housings, axles, etc. I went through 2 trans before figuring this out. :(

You can possibly weld the tab back on, but I haven't tried. I'm scrapping the block and going to swap the internals/heads onto my AWD project car. (This happened on my FWD).

I found those dowel pins. http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=19919&cat=958&page=1

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=19687&cat=971&page=1
(Two different ones, not really sure how it works, though it looks like one might sit in the other.)

If you do weld it back on, please post your results up here and let us know for future reference.
 
well the reason was because there was no bolt in the back or front where each alignment pin is at so i think thats why the clutch and starter were giving me problems......i got all but the bolt in the front in now because its missing......i plan on doing a rebuilt motor swap here in the near future...........does anyone think this will last till i get my second motor complete???
 
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