After searching around for info and a bit of trial and error I have successfully done the ELHS mod on a 2g FWD. I have seen articles about this on 1gs but all the 2g threads lead to it cant be done or its too much work.
If you already have your trans out its not much more work, and it will help cut down on torque steer. When i did this i put in a kaaz lsd from an awd so it was a two-fold mod for me.
Disclaimer:
I have done this mod and put about 120 miles on the car with this mod. I have not launched or boosted the car yet as i was still breaking it in / shaking down and issues. I assume no responsibility for what you do with
the info I am about to provide you with. Now that that is out of the way, on to the info.
Parts Needed:
AWD half shaft from a 5 speed. *
AWD front axles from a 2g 5 speed. *
AWD front differential
Old FWD ring gear from your transmission.
Bolts for intermediate shaft.
Axle seals from 91 hyundai sonata v6 manual. Pioneer part number 759042
To Disasemble the transmission follow the VFAQ provided by Tim Beecher found here.
BMT LSD Insert
You will also use this to put it all Back together.
Once you have the trans apart and the diff out, remove the 8 bolts that hold the spedometer gear onto the stock fwd diff.
If the awd diff has its spedometer gear on it remove it at this time as well.
Now Place the FWD spedometer gear on the AWD diff and tighten the 8 bolts back down to spec of 89 ft/lbs.
Do them in a crossing pattern as if you would tightening lug nuts on a wheel, and dont tighten them all the way to spec the first time. Get them all hand / ratchet tight then tighten with torque wrench.
Now the FWD diff uses a taper style bearing where the AWD diff uses straight caged bearings. In order to fit the Awd diff in the FWD case you need to remove the FWD taper races from both sides of the case.
The outer diameter of the AWD diff straight cage bearings is the same as the outside of the taper race so no modifications are needed to fit the bearings.
Now you will have to put it all back together. This step requires some patience. On a FWD trans there is PRELOAD on the diff due to having taper bearings, with the straight cage bearings of the AWD you need to have the proper amount of ENDPLAY.
In order to set the endplay you will need to use some solder that maesures .120 in diameter or close to it. Follow instructions in picture below.
Make sure you are placing the solder on the drive gear side of the diff as that is also the side the shims need to go on.
Now factory spec for the endpaly is between .0020" - .0067"
While I was taking on this project I made some phone calls to John at TRE and he advised me that the endplay with performance in mind should be between .0013" - .0020"
So Measure the crused area of solder and use that to figure out what size shim(s) you need.
Here are the Mitsubishi part numbers for required shim sizes:
Once you have the proper endplay set put the transmission back together as per Tim Beecher's Vfaq.
BMT LSD Insert
Now install your axle seals. The axle seals are from a 1991 Hyundai Sonata with a v6 and manual transmission. Transmission Code km177.
I used pioneer seals from O'Reillys Auto Parts, part number 759042.
Now you can put the trans back in the car. Once in the car it is time to put in the axles. Now it is important that the intermediated shaft is from a 5 speed car as the automatic
intermediate shaft is about an inch longer. Also make note as to what year your intermediate shaft is from as the mount is different.
Here is a good thread explaing the differences in the shafts and brackets.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/298124-halfshaft-bracket-year-differences-ac-mount.html
And Here is info on the bolts needed
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...ntermediate-shaft-question.html#post152212587
Or if you are like me and have a big bucket of bolts dig through that till you find ones that work.
Once the intermediate shaft is in now we can put in the axles. As far as axles go it doesnt matter if they are from an automatic or a manual, as long as they are from a 2g AWD. I tried a set of 1g AWD axles and they didnt work as they werent the proper length.
Also as some advice, the AWD axles are smaller in diameter than the fwd axles so in theory they will not hold as much torque. It is recommended going to an aftermarket axle if you are / plan on making more than 400 ft/lbs of torque.
If you already have your trans out its not much more work, and it will help cut down on torque steer. When i did this i put in a kaaz lsd from an awd so it was a two-fold mod for me.
Disclaimer:
I have done this mod and put about 120 miles on the car with this mod. I have not launched or boosted the car yet as i was still breaking it in / shaking down and issues. I assume no responsibility for what you do with
the info I am about to provide you with. Now that that is out of the way, on to the info.
Parts Needed:
AWD half shaft from a 5 speed. *
AWD front axles from a 2g 5 speed. *
AWD front differential
Old FWD ring gear from your transmission.
Bolts for intermediate shaft.
Axle seals from 91 hyundai sonata v6 manual. Pioneer part number 759042
To Disasemble the transmission follow the VFAQ provided by Tim Beecher found here.
BMT LSD Insert
You will also use this to put it all Back together.
Once you have the trans apart and the diff out, remove the 8 bolts that hold the spedometer gear onto the stock fwd diff.
If the awd diff has its spedometer gear on it remove it at this time as well.
Now Place the FWD spedometer gear on the AWD diff and tighten the 8 bolts back down to spec of 89 ft/lbs.
Do them in a crossing pattern as if you would tightening lug nuts on a wheel, and dont tighten them all the way to spec the first time. Get them all hand / ratchet tight then tighten with torque wrench.
Now the FWD diff uses a taper style bearing where the AWD diff uses straight caged bearings. In order to fit the Awd diff in the FWD case you need to remove the FWD taper races from both sides of the case.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
The outer diameter of the AWD diff straight cage bearings is the same as the outside of the taper race so no modifications are needed to fit the bearings.
Now you will have to put it all back together. This step requires some patience. On a FWD trans there is PRELOAD on the diff due to having taper bearings, with the straight cage bearings of the AWD you need to have the proper amount of ENDPLAY.
In order to set the endplay you will need to use some solder that maesures .120 in diameter or close to it. Follow instructions in picture below.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Make sure you are placing the solder on the drive gear side of the diff as that is also the side the shims need to go on.
Now factory spec for the endpaly is between .0020" - .0067"
While I was taking on this project I made some phone calls to John at TRE and he advised me that the endplay with performance in mind should be between .0013" - .0020"
So Measure the crused area of solder and use that to figure out what size shim(s) you need.
Here are the Mitsubishi part numbers for required shim sizes:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Once you have the proper endplay set put the transmission back together as per Tim Beecher's Vfaq.
BMT LSD Insert
Now install your axle seals. The axle seals are from a 1991 Hyundai Sonata with a v6 and manual transmission. Transmission Code km177.
I used pioneer seals from O'Reillys Auto Parts, part number 759042.
Now you can put the trans back in the car. Once in the car it is time to put in the axles. Now it is important that the intermediated shaft is from a 5 speed car as the automatic
intermediate shaft is about an inch longer. Also make note as to what year your intermediate shaft is from as the mount is different.
Here is a good thread explaing the differences in the shafts and brackets.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/298124-halfshaft-bracket-year-differences-ac-mount.html
And Here is info on the bolts needed
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...ntermediate-shaft-question.html#post152212587
Or if you are like me and have a big bucket of bolts dig through that till you find ones that work.
Once the intermediate shaft is in now we can put in the axles. As far as axles go it doesnt matter if they are from an automatic or a manual, as long as they are from a 2g AWD. I tried a set of 1g AWD axles and they didnt work as they werent the proper length.
Also as some advice, the AWD axles are smaller in diameter than the fwd axles so in theory they will not hold as much torque. It is recommended going to an aftermarket axle if you are / plan on making more than 400 ft/lbs of torque.
