engine electrical problem, $100 to anyone who knows the problem

[kre8ive_kustomz]

ive been having this problem about 3 weeks, i drilled a hole though the firewall into the main harness, i fixed those wires, 3 wires were red and ended up tapping into eachother, two black wires were grounds. before i noticed the wires were grounding out i tried to start the car, the puel pump relay in the center counsel made alot of clicking noises, the car would idle bad for 5-15 seconds then the relay would start to click and the car would shut off. with that ecu now the car idles the same but doesnt shut off, runs extremely rich.... i drove it 6 miles before the plugs fouled out. the other ecu i have is same mits part#, but with this one the car idle smooth but at 4k rpms, i hard on 1g cars that the IPS can get stuck closed but i dont think the 2g has the IPS. the mits service said he thinks both ecu's are good and that i have a short somewhere, they want to charge me a minimum of $500 and wont guarantee they can fix it.
have installed new cam and crank sensors and checked the sensors that the red wires went to, tested ok, were sopposed to be 36-46 ohms @68 degrees, i read then all at around 65 ohms but the temp was lower than 68 out.
so to whoever can figure it out gets 100 bucks and saves me 400, any help will be appreciated.

 

[The Foos]

sure sounds like you have a short to ground some where, but no one is going to be able to fix it for you on this site...you just have to pull the engine wiring harness and look for exposed wires...

Good luck

Scott

 

[Project ES]

Not a fix but i would use the 2nd ecu that idles high and try to clear its memory by touching ur positive lead wire to the negative battery terminal, then i would go about setting the ignition timing (check ur manual for procedure) and possibly readjusting ur BISS screw. Thats jus somethin Id do.

 

[luv2rallye]

To find a short, first disconnect the obvious devices (eg. taillights if blowing taillight fuse) to see if fuse still blows. Also try disconnecting everything that is or may be on that fuse’s circuit or anything suspicious or recently worked on that’s electrical. Disconnect anything electrical that doesn’t work. Examine the wiring and connectors on the things you disconnect to see if they are frayed, broken, melted, wet, or touching other wires or metal. 95% of the time you will find the short this way (which is also the quickest). If you have very weird symptoms (eg. headlights never go off, or turning on one thing causes something else to happen that shouldn’t), try unbolting the engine fuse box and examine the cluster of wires underneath. Some may be melted, broken, or shorting against others.

If it still blows you will have to use a tougher technique. Replace the fuse that blows (temporarily and only for testing purposes) with an actual small 12 volt light bulb like a automotive tester light, marker light, or license plate light (don't try to start the engine with it in). The bulb will limit the current so you now don’t have to worry about any short melting the wires. If you don’t have a tester light you may have to solder wires on a bulb or put a bulb in a socket with wires. Then insert the wires into the slots where the fuse was. If there is a short, it will lite brightly (no short may lite it half bright along with a device doing the other half, or it may not lite at all). Then start disconnecting one at a time (1) things that don’t work, (2) suspected things, and (3) anything on that circuit. When you disconnect the item that is causing the short, the light will go out (so it's a great detection device). Keep in mind the short may be in the wiring or fuse box which is harder to find, but first check all the easier, more obvious devices and places.

Here is also a helpful link: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54846