Engine Dampner Kit

[godschylde777]

I did not know where to put this, but any who, I am looking for an engine dampner kit, my friend has one on his evo 8, and I cannot find on for my 2g, does any one know where I can find one.

 

[DSMjrv]

engine dampner? what is that?

 

[dsmTripp]

I too am interested in this. And an engine dampener is a dampening bar or rod that helps with the "twisting " of the engine. I think NRG may sale a universal one and you would just have to Fab brackets for it but I may be mistaking though.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Guys, it's spelled DAMPER

 

[blackhawkgsx]

Solid motor mounts ....Problem solved I have never seen one for our engines some one would have to fab something up for that.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Solid motor mounts ....Problem solved I have never seen one for our engines some one would have to fab something up for that.

A damper will remove a lot of vibration from being felt from solid mounts. So for people who don't want to rattle themselves to death, it's a viable option.

I don't know why a damper system couldn't be fabbed to go from the back of the block (intake mani brace) to the crossmember where the motor mount attaches.

 

[blackhawkgsx]

I get it . im not sure why no one has fabed up one yet .If some one has im sure they will be generous enough to share some pics

 

[deth2u]

There's a cheaper way out, my old boss told me back in the day (70s) he used to use stock mounts and steel cables on 4 corners of the engine. Stock feel, but the cables would halt the movement under hard throttle

Sounds janky but simple and easy at the same time

 

[dsmTripp]

There's a cheaper way out, my old boss told me back in the day (70s) he used to use stock mounts and steel cables on 4 corners of the engine. Stock feel, but the cables would halt the movement under hard throttle

Sounds janky but simple and easy at the same time

Very true that would work but using cable would not dampen it would be like theemgine hitting a wall. And engine dampener is bascaly a shock for your engine. For fwd cars this along with using poly engine mounts highly cuts down wheel hop

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Very true that would work but using cable would not dampen it would be like theemgine hitting a wall. And engine dampener is bascaly a shock for your engine. For fwd cars this along with using poly engine mounts highly cuts down wheel hop

Cable acts as a spring (when taut), not a damper or a solid mass.

 

[Tyeler18]

A damper will remove a lot of vibration from being felt from solid mounts. So for people who don't want to rattle themselves to death, it's a viable option.

I don't know why a damper system couldn't be fabbed to go from the back of the block (intake mani brace) to the crossmember where the motor mount attaches.

Actually a damper INCREASES vibrations of the engine size it prevents the engine from flexing not just under load but also at idle. I have the evo/3g Ingalls stiffy damper on my 3g and it has an adjustment for the damping rate (just like coilover/kyb agx struts) where you can adjust how much it flexes which in turn will increase/decrease vibration, however, it still increases the vibration over stock. It's like saying you can set your coilovers on the lowest setting and it will ride smoother than stock, not going to happen.

I have prothane motor mounts all around on my 3g with the ingalls stiffy and it vibrates pretty decently. Automatics at idle will suffer much worse from the vibration, however.

My 3g has Tien SS coilovers, prothanes, and the ingalls and the combination of all 3 leaves me with ZERO wheel hop even launching at over 5k. Engine damper is well worth the added throttle response and lack of wheel hop, especially with solid motor mounts and coilovers/upgraded suspension bushings.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Actually a damper INCREASES vibrations of the engine size it prevents the engine from flexing not just under load but also at idle. I have the evo/3g Ingalls stiffy damper on my 3g and it has an adjustment for the damping rate (just like coilover/kyb agx struts) where you can adjust how much it flexes which in turn will increase/decrease vibration, however, it still increases the vibration over stock. It's like saying you can set your coilovers on the lowest setting and it will ride smoother than stock, not going to happen.

I have prothane motor mounts all around on my 3g with the ingalls stiffy and it vibrates pretty decently. Automatics at idle will suffer much worse from the vibration, however.

My 3g has Tien SS coilovers, prothanes, and the ingalls and the combination of all 3 leaves me with ZERO wheel hop even launching at over 5k. Engine damper is well worth the added throttle response and lack of wheel hop, especially with solid motor mounts and coilovers/upgraded suspension bushings.

Completely depends on the strength of the damper. There's a reason why mitsu uses their rubber engine mounts.

 

[Tyeler18]

Completely depends on the strength of the damper. There's a reason why mitsu uses their rubber engine mounts.

That's what I mean. To get any real gain out of a damper you're going to need one with a stiff setting adjustment. The vibration comes from connecting something metal (damper) to the frame. Any time that happens you add vibrations in the cabin. Even an extremely soft damper is going to increase the vibrations, but it won't have any real benefits to using it without increasing the stiffness.

I might pull my ingalls off today and see what it would take to fab up mounts for my 1g. Honestly I know it wouldn't take much. It's two high grade steel plates with drilled holes. All we'd have to do is get dimensions of the plates, put them into CAD or a similiar program and have them cut. I know it wouldn't cost a whole lot to do. Plus the damper's new are like $150 (or used for $30 shipped )

 

[deth2u]

I cast my own mounts for $25 with polyurethane. I'm not thrilled with the prothane inserts, or the shitty people that work there (another story, called for tech specs, got nothing but bad attitude and no answers). Inserts seem to squeeze themselves out over time, or if the factory rubber fractures, it spits the mounts out.

Overall, the best and cheapest way seems to be making your own. I'm still using the ones I made 5-6 years ago, and the vibration transmission through the chassis is not bad at all, even without the b-shafts. Just be sure to pick a reasonable durometer to start with

Just for fun, I remember years ago we were doing these full inserts on a buddy's car. Tack this one up for a bad idea: We were having trouble getting the factory rubber out, so we came up with the brilliant idea of "let's burn it out. It'll be faster" Set it on the ground, put a little wd40 on it and set it alight. Then stood back hosing it off with more cans of wd40, brake cleaner, and whatever else came in a can that read keep away from open flames. It made a huge mess, and looked something like a 3-story building fire from the street. Got the new ones in after that

Still surprised that no one called the fire department.

 

[97gstjosh]

I wish someone made these for our cars I've always been interested, love the one on my Evo 8.

 

[godschylde777]

Hey guys thanks for responding, yeah I have had no luck finding them, but I think I will buy the one for the evo and make brackets.

 

[Yngvar]

Just for fun, I remember years ago we were doing these full inserts on a buddy's car. Tack this one up for a bad idea: We were having trouble getting the factory rubber out, so we came up with the brilliant idea of "let's burn it out. It'll be faster" Set it on the ground, put a little wd40 on it and set it alight. Then stood back hosing it off with more cans of wd40, brake cleaner, and whatever else came in a can that read keep away from open flames. It made a huge mess, and looked something like a 3-story building fire from the street. Got the new ones in after that

Still surprised that no one called the fire department.

you know an air hammer with a chisel bit will take them out in no time. I think I spent about a minute a per mount to get them out.

 

[godschylde777]

my threads been jacked...thats fine I have my answer.

 

[yepes281]

Well what is it? Because i want a torque damper too

 

[godschylde777]

google engine damper kit, and it will bring up nrg, I saw one on my friends evo I think Ill get that one.

 

[yepes281]

Thats what i was looking at to, just not sure how much fabrication will be needed.

And i just realized you were from houston, where you stay at?

 

[Tyeler18]

As far as fabbing you just need a machine shop that can cut/bend a high grade steel bracket for the strut mount and the motor mount. Then it's a simple as putting it on the car and adjusting to how you want it. If it wasn't blizzarding out right now I'd go try and put my 3g one on the talon, but I'm not swapping cars in the garage in this weather.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

I've talked to the ebay seller on ebay that cares the damper. He never showed me the picture for the actual eclipse damper but he said that the 1g- 2g might need to custom fab a mount. I've searched my engine bay but I couldn't really find a nice place to mount it to be effective. It's so tight compare to a honda.
Now don't no one tell me it's pointless because I ran one and the difference was night and day. Off the line was better, shifting was way different, engine vibrations lessen. I wait for extra cash- say income tax and purchase one. I'll be sure to do a write up on it!

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

There's also a lot of research on company's that make fitment dampers for specific motors! like where they go how its fitted what part of the engine needs to be dampened as there could be 3 places that could use it but what if the best results of that specific place!!! That's why I've been working to get 3 different types of dampers in place and find the best 1 for the job plus it will all depend on space and what the person has as upgrades (what's in the way what's been removed etc etc) I don't have any firm grounds yet but these are the ideas I have! 1. Mount from the engine lifting point with a bracket to the top of the fire wall but as that's not very thick could cause to bent unless I can lower a bracket and raise the mounting point higher! 2. Get a reverse damper that's a pull type and mount it to the front by the exhaust manifold possibly to a rad bracket or similar! And lastly custom holder for people who have strut bars that's could be connected to! There are a few more possibles! But until I've had more time to work on it and test it fully there is only what ever people can do to make it work!


One other thing I thought about is... An engine damper doesn't have to be fixed to the engine!!! It could have say a rubber boot that's just touches the engine anywhere and once tension is applied it will contact the damper and still do its job?

I should have something to show by middle of next year (hopefully) as I also have been wanting a product like this to use!

 

[godschylde777]

I live on the north west side, like jones and 1960 area, you?