Engine Build Part 4: JDM 4G63 GVR4 pics

[kwbunn]

Here's a couple pictures of the JDM 4G63 GVR4 donor motor. I'm going to use just about the entire top end- intake manifold, throttle body, head, valve cover, etc. The motor came from a GVR4 automatic, and therefore has 450cc injectors and a 13G.

You might ask me why I went and bought a complete JDM 4G63. That's easy. I needed all the OEM parts necessary to make the dual runner manifold work - the infamous "white canister", for example. Since I was going to use a 1G head and throttle body anyway, it's included as well. The block also includes all sorts of other goodies, like the bracket for the intake manifold, the JDM coil and distributor, and a load of other stuff that I can cannibalize. In other words, I plan to make the completed installation as "OEM like" as possible.

Since I was going to use a Evo III 16G anyway, the turbo didn't matter to me. But then I realized that it was a blessing in disguise, of sorts. If i assemble the motor with a 13G to start, it'll be great for break in (I was planning to run N/A for that, originally) and since the 13G is pretty similar flow wise to the T25, it won't overload the stock GS-T ECU and fuel system. Plus, the J-pipe kit that I'll have to get for the 13G will work with the 16G, as well. I don't need a bigger exhaust, either- it can stay stock during the break in period. About the only thing I won't be able to do is control the dual runner manifold, and I'm okay with that- it's not like I'm gong to go hunting for Vettes with a 13G. When I upgrade the turbo and all the other supporting mods after break-in I'll have DSM Link do it.

About the only thing left from this motor will be the a complete bottom end, and I can sell that on eBay, or to someone from this forum. I'm sure somebody, somewhere will want a complete JDM 6-bolt bottom end.

 

[Vanish70]

A. Why the hell would you need to be N/A for your break-in?!!

B. 13G flows quite a bit more than a T-25. In fact, it only flows about 15cfm less than a 14B.

C. Automatic engines come with 390cc injectors.

D. About 80% of the break-in of a new engine occurs within about 20 minutes of when you first start it up. Be careful. If you want really good break-in advice, PM me.

E. You can't "overload" an ECU.

 

[kwbunn]

Vanish70-

Thanks for your questions. I'll answer them here.

A. Why the hell not? The 4G64 was N/A originally, albeit with higher compression pistons - 9.5:1 for a SOHC Galant (the DOHC was 9.6:1) vs. 8.5:1 for a 2G turbo. However, the Wiseco pistons are around 9:1, right in the middle. N/A is not only completely possible, but even driveable. At any rate. this isn't a daily driver, and I'm in no hurry. For the record, you're the first guy I've ever seen complaining about someone putting *less* load on a motor.

Check out http://www.extremeevolutions.com - he did a very similar build-up to mine, and ran for the first 500 miles as N/A.

B. Maybe I should have said "the 13G is the closest MHI fitiment (1G style) turbocharger to the stock T-25." The idea here is that the stock ECU/fuel system that's in my GS-T can accommodate a 13G better than, say, a 50-trim.

C. You're right, for a 1G DSM. We're talking about a JDM GVR4. This motor, in fact, does have the blue topped 450cc's.

D. Thanks. I'm always in the market for free help.

E. I know the ECU isn't going to explode, or anything like that. What I meant was "this setup won't be more than the stock fuel/air maps can handle." And that *is* possible - that's what things like fuel cut are for.

 

[Vanish70]

There's just no reason to run N/A at all. Boosting on a fresh motor is not a big deal at all, provided you keep the boost low. The rings are already seated almost insantly after you first start the engine, so taking it easy for 500 miles really isn't the proper way to break an engine in. I was revving my built 4G63 to 8,000rpm boosting 20psi when it had less than 500 miles on it, and 15,000 miles later my engine is still running hard as ever.

On a fresh motor you WANT load. You want your surfaces to be screaming bloody murder. This is how you "break" something in, not by being easy on it. Being easy on it will probably just glaze over your cylinder walls and do nothing by harm to your engine. You should probably PM me, because my break-in process is too long to post in this blog, but I basically swear by it.

 

[kwbunn]

Vanish70-

I think it's kind of a moot point, since I'm running the 13G to start off with. It *will* be boosted, just not a lot. I'll contact you later with break-in recommendations. I'll bounce them off of Jackson Auto Machine and see what they say, since they're assisting with the build.

 

[Vanish70]

Sounds good.