Effects of lightweight flywheel? [merged] light weight lightened aluminum ACT fidanza

[Fryguy]

All light weight flywheel newbie threads are merged here.

I'm looking for my car to be very fast at lower speeds; my main goal is very fast acceleration. Will a lightweight flywheel be beneficial to this? Or should I just save up all my money and drop a turbo on my 84k engine

 

[Shane2GSX]

I just installed the XACT Flywheel along with an SBR 3500 clutch. The combo is great!! The clutch grabs hard and the flywheel makes revs much smoother and downshifting faster. Also, I noticed more than just 1-2 hp increase. I'd say more like 10-15 hp. It has def made a difference in accelleration!!

 

[importboost]

I just installed the XACT Flywheel along with an SBR 3500 clutch. The combo is great!! The clutch grabs hard and the flywheel makes revs much smoother and downshifting faster. Also, I noticed more than just 1-2 hp increase. I'd say more like 10-15 hp. It has def made a difference in accelleration!!

It's not a horsepower increase. You just have faster revs, your car turns up faster so it feels like it has more horsepower.

 

[Shane2GSX]

It's not a horsepower increase. You just have faster revs, your car turns up faster so it feels like it has more horsepower.

I'm not sure that I'd agree with that. No horsepower was gained from the engine that wasn't already there, that is true. But I'm talking about horsepower/energy getting to the wheels. This flywheel weighs 11.5 lbs, stock is 19 I believe. It obviously takes more energy to spin something 19lbs than something 11.5 lbs. So, while changing the flywheel does not change the energy output of the engine, that extra energy gained coming from the lighter flywheel has to go somewhere, thus into the transmission and to the wheels.

So the flywheel is making more energy/horsepower available to the wheels that was not previously available. Thus, more horsepower to the wheels..?

I hope that made sense. I was pretty much just thinking through that in my head, and it seems like that would be the case. Someone correct me and explain if I'm wrong.

 

[importboost]

I'm not sure that I'd agree with that. No horsepower was gained from the engine that wasn't already there, that is true. But I'm talking about horsepower/energy getting to the wheels. This flywheel weighs 11.5 lbs, stock is 19 I believe. It obviously takes more energy to spin something 19lbs than something 11.5 lbs. So, while changing the flywheel does not change the energy output of the engine, that extra energy gained coming from the lighter flywheel has to go somewhere, thus into the transmission and to the wheels.

So the flywheel is making more energy/horsepower available to the wheels that was not previously available. Thus, more horsepower to the wheels..?

I hope that made sense. I was pretty much just thinking through that in my head, and it seems like that would be the case. Someone correct me and explain if I'm wrong.

You got it bro, well put. I was taking what was said by previous replies as actual hp gain. When I read what you wrote it dawned on me that that was what you meant. I got ya and I totally agree. You are right, but I didnt wan't anyone to get confused by what you were saying.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

MyBeatGSX : You can step on it in first in an AWD and break the tires loose now, On a 16g by just adding a lighter flywheel?

As for the difference in driving, I never noticed a difference as to the car being ''harder'' to drive, With any of my act flywheels, Or even my fidenza in the 2g.. Although, I have infact heard this numerous times, From many people. The car seemed to rev a little faster I guess, But I really do not remember correctly from before and after.

 

[Shane2GSX]

You got it bro, well put. I was taking what was said by previous replies as actual hp gain. When I read what you wrote it dawned on me that that was what you meant. I got ya and I totally agree. You are right, but I didnt wan't anyone to get confused by what you were saying.

Just glad I was able to type it so it was understandable..

 

[MyBeatGSX]

MyBeatGSX : You can step on it in first in an AWD and break the tires loose now, On a 16g by just adding a lighter flywheel?

Yes the fronts break loose when I hit full boost, then catch, then the backs breaks loose and the tail steps out. I'm sure it has more to do with my crappy 215 wide BFG G-Forces that are at 39psi front/36psi rear, than any rediculous power (my dyno numbers are old btw). But the point is, regardless of how they spin, they didn't spin with the stock flywheel and that's the only thing that changed at the time.

 

[Dragon TalonTsi]

Man, I cant believe there is that much to debate on flywheels... I have the 2600 kit and the flywheel both from ACT and have had no problems with the clutch nor the flywheel at all. Yeah, I do feel a big difference with these two mods, they compliment each other very well, probably because they are both from the same brand, so that is why they are XACTLY the right fit... I love this combo, but the one thing I am starting to do is more calf workouts on my right leg, due to the fact that this clutch is a beast, and I started to walk around in circles for a while.... But seriously, this is the best combo in my experience, for daily driving and for the track....

 

[kenamond]

Sorry, I had the urge to spew physics for a moment.

Think of the rotational parts just like you think of the weight of your car. If you decrease the mass of your car, your car is quicker, but the HP didn't change. Same goes for rotational mass. Those pretty 19" rims slow you down, because they represent more rotational mass than the stock 16s on a TSi (why are F1 rims that small compared to their tire diameter?). Same goes for all the rotational parts. To accelerate all of those spinning things takes a certain amount of time, but if you decrease their rotational mass, they spin up faster.

This is not an hp increase.

On a dyno, they can do a "steady-state" measurement of torque and hp. This is at a fixed rpm and this is at the wheels. Horsepower is the rate at which you can deliver torque. The formula for converting torque to horsepower is a constant multiplied by the rpm. So if you had a perfectly flat torque curve and 100hp at 1000rpm, you'd have 200hp at 2000rpm. It has nothing to do with how quickly rpm changes.

But just as reducing the curb weight of your car makes the car quicker, so does reducing rotational (and reciprocating) weight of the motor, tranny, clutch, axles, shafts, hubs, rims, and tires. So a lighter flywheel will make your car quicker, but it won't add horsepower.

 

[MyBeatGSX]

That's not even a joke. After 4 months of a 2600 and lots of city driving, my left leg is actually bigger than my right leg.

 

[Dragon TalonTsi]

^^^

Yeah, you are telling me... it is the truth though....

 

[Reese92tsi]

No I'm really not. A friend of mine had one in his 92 fwd turbo talon. His exploded inside his transmission with not a whole lot of power goin through it. He had some good mods but nothing crazy. I'd say <350hp.

It was my STOCK flywheel that exploded, I have a fidanza flywheel, but its currently sitting under the bed . Also, a To4e 60 trim in a full T4 frame at 25psi should yield a hell of alot more than <350hp (more like 450-480whp) . I would also like some more feedback from fidanza users.

 

[96gstdsm]

Ijust couldn't find anything saying if these worked well togetheristhat a good dd combo? I decided on going with the act 2100 just want to makre sure the fadanza is a good one for a flywheel before i buy it. And i would also like to know if there is anything else i should replace while i have the tranny out? I am replacing the clutch fork and pivot ball as well. The clutch kit comes with a new tob so will just put that in as long as that is a good sturdy one.

Anything else i should do?

Should this work well together?

And also i was thinking of installing a slow boy racing lsd insert. Is 200 a good price for someone to install it while the tranny is already out? was quoted that from turbotrix.com. in nj.

Also if anyone knows anything about that place's work let me know as well.

Thanks ----ryan.

 

[dsmclipse97]

replace the rear main seal while your there, and yes the fidanza and the 2100 should work fine together. not sure about the insert but if your planning high horsepower numbers then you might want a 2600 and a real LSD

 

[96gstdsm]

Ok thanks, only planning on around 300 to 350 tops. a 2100 should be fine for that right? For now i am running just stock turbo but will upgrade to evo3 16g as soon as i get all my supporting mods done. Ok thanks for the suggestion on the rear main seal, i'll definately replace that.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

I'll second on the rear crank seal. And also replace the 2 output shaft (axle) seals. The SBR LSD inserts work great as long as you don't exceed about 350WHP. I run them in my car and they do a great job. Straight line acceleration is nice and corners are a dream. Granted it's not a true LSD, but for the price, and if you don't expect high HP/torque numbers, they do fine.

The Fidanza will work with the ACT clutch. However, as a DD it might be a little light in stop-n-go traffic. But as with anything, you can get used to it.

For a FWD the 2100 will work fine...you'll more than likely spin the tires before you slip the clutch, unless slicks are used.

 

[RWKustoms]

My 2100 works great with my Fidanza flywheel even though sometimes I wish I had gone with the 2600.

 

[96gstdsm]

OK do you know a good place where i can find those different seals? Did a quick search and dont seem to find much of anything. might just be blind but can;t find them.

 

[96gstdsm]

Oh and also will the 2600 be a decent daily driver? Or would it be too heavy? Plan to make up to 350 h/p eventually.

 

[dsmclipse97]

yea, screw the real LSD if your only going for 350hp, inserts are fine for anything less than 400hp. the 2600 is probably overkill as well for a FWD. good luck with the 16G and have fun

 

[96gstdsm]

Ok nevermind found a good place for the seals. Would i also need a rear main seal retainer? And for the axle seals, i am having someone do my clutch job for me, that would opened already for the clutch install anyways right? So most likely would not charge extra or much extra to install all those seals right? (rear main, and axle shaft seals) The axle shaft i would need left and right(sorry dumb question) but the store selling thme only list for front axle seals and doesn;t list for right and left for manual tranny axle seals. Assuming i would have to buy two of them i guess.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

The rear crank seal just "picks" out, no retainer required and they DON'T need to remove the housing. The output shaft (axle) seals are on the case where the axles go into the tranny. And both are the same...and of course you need 2 (one for each side). Also have the shop look at the retainer clip that holds the TOB on, if it's bent up or looks bad, replace it. It's cheap and you don't want to go back in because of a $3 part. Have them also check out the clutch fork and pivot ball, replace as needed. And also check the master and slave cylinders as well.

 

[96gstdsm]

The rear crank seal just "picks" out, no retainer required and they DON'T need to remove the housing. The output shaft (axle) seals are on the case where the axles go into the tranny. And both are the same...and of course you need 2 (one for each side). Also have the shop look at the retainer clip that holds the TOB on, if it's bent up or looks bad, replace it. It's cheap and you don't want to go back in because of a $3 part. Have them also check out the clutch fork and pivot ball, replace as needed. And also check the master and slave cylinders as well.

Ok thanks alot. for the axle seals, are they both identical for each side? The store where i saw them being sold only list one for the manual car. So do i just need to purchase two of those? For auto they list left side and right side, but not for manual.
I also plan on just replacing the clutch fork and pivot ball regardless. Will have to check the master and slave cylinders also.

I also have a hard time getting into first gear so could that be from something with the cluth or more like a tranny fork problem?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Yes, both sides of the manual are the same size. And yes, you need 2.

The hard time getting into 1st could be several things....the clutch. Synchros. Master and/or slave cylinders. Cables. Shifter. Or a combination of any of the above.

Although I would probably go with the "that's just how a lot of DSMs are" scenario. They come with a crappy shifter, IMO.

When I bought mine new it had to be put in 2nd then 1st for it to go into 1st with ease. Now that I have put in the shifter plate bushings and cable end bushings and gone to a B&M shifter I have a mechanism that is the way it should have been from the beginning. "Like butter" as the saying goes.

 

[96gstdsm]

Ok thanks i will order those parts now.

PUtting my car into got harder and harder over only 5 days that i drove it. Bought it and it was fine, got a little tougher and then so hard to get it in. Almost couldn;t get it in anymore. and then i heard a rattle which i beleive is a tob since it goes away when i push the clutch in. So i doubt that is just how the shifting is with this one, somehtin must have broken off. The owner before my installed some sort of short shifter, dont know which one. But this feels more like somehting in the tranny or clutch.

But anyways i will go ahead and order those seals for now. Would it be good to just replace the clutch master and slave cylinder no matter what?