1G ecmlink log first log. car gets to operating temp and done

[Slobonator4G63]

Dear fellow community I've been working to get this 91 eagle talon that I bought to get up and running. After purchasing the car I jumped into her to figure out her deep secrets and after poking around on her for a couple days I thought I had found my fix to my problems. See I bought the car checked compression but could never get it to fire and turn over due to that old dam gas and second a blown cap in the old ecu. So I fixed the ecu and then proceeded to start her up. Se was a stubborn you know what, but she fired. Long story short she started to go but something wasn't right so I searched franticly and low and behold the harmonic balanced had separated. So I fixed that up with a used one that I had lying around. finally I figured I had all the kinks worked out with this beauty and like my other ex 4g63t she's hiding something from me. I installed a ecmlink into her hoping to log what changed in the values when the problems arises. See all start the car shell sound a little rough but then smooth's out. After it gets to operating temperature it seems to drop in idle dramatically and then want to just fade out and die. And the problem that im finding is that after it dies and it gets to operating temperature it doesn't want to start for a while. And it repeats it same actions. I am going to continue to search this out in hopes I find something but the car is a 1991 eagle talon stock everything 1 owner with 114000kms on it. And direction would be greatly appreciated I will try and post my data log in hopes I captured the right values for everyone.

 

[Slobonator4G63]

forgive me if the attached files aren't proper format I had to transfer them and have no idea if this is right if not I will provide the correct log asap. thanks

 

[steve]

I could read the logs. What up with your TPS?
Why is the fuel global -3.9% and why are you locking the Intake Temp and Baro?
Can you also log the ISC?

 

[Slobonator4G63]

hi steve to be honest im not all that comfortable enough yet with ecmlink and when i went into the ecu to check the table it said it was at stock values so i didnt question it. The tps voltage should be at .63v right? I will try and make sure I capture the isc voltage. but what do you mean about loicking the intake temp and Baro?

 

[dkalfop]

Omg, I'm having the same problem!! I had Magnus install the DSMlink and ever since then as soon as I gets to operating temp, boom wants to stall out kicks and cars like a bag of kaka eventually dying. Wait a bit then starts up and only last a minute or two then repeats. This has been happening for two summers I get the car they say it's fixed then I drive 10 min and car dies. I'm so frustrated! The new hypothesis is the ecu's is the problem. I have tried everything. Car made 380 whp on the dyno but it's useless if I can only drive it ten minutes at a time. So my car is back at Magnus and they are going swap out another ecu. I have had this problem for a while and at first the guys at the shop think I was crazy till yesterday. We have to work together to figure this out. I also had leaking capacitors fixed but I'm thinking there is still something wrong with it. I am having voltage issue. After warm up it seems to drain and from 14.1 volts starts to drop. Please help us both forum Gods? All I want to do is drive my car.

 

[Slobonator4G63]

well I posted a log of my car and it in need of some attention I i need to figure out what wrong with it before I drive it anywhere I have other car to get around and this was just a pure need to have kinda situation so i purchased the car knowing the body condition was great. however back to the point I believe my car is a tune issue. I got the board socketed by a great shop hear in town that does alot of electronic repairs and just purchased the ecu from ecmlink i fiddled with last 92 awd and never really could dial in the turn it would run at least tho. But cause I am such a fan of these cars i stripped my old dsm down before autopac could take it away. anyways the point is the ecu is a 92 and my machine is a 91 so the ecu should hypothetically work be it that its 91-94. I looked at my ics and i mean i guess it within spec. i mean 27.5 ohms and 28 ohms the rest of the way. how ever im after some boost leaks that may be getting past the intercooler. My O ring that seats against the manifold has disappeared magically and there is alot of residual oil left standing in the ics port as well as the throttle body. So my task at hand is to locate where this oil is being pulled from. I also need to adjust my tps as i adjusted my ics and they say with replacment of the tps of adjusting the ics need to be done as well as they work together it says in haynes. How ever with there being oil in the intake I could see why the car wants to die the air quality is shit and that is most likely the reason why it is smoking cause like reading on the other forms coolant is white how ever any large quantity of oil,gas will also burn white. Id hate for this motor to be destroyed with as little kms it has on it.

 

[Slobonator4G63]

I have made the changes to my ecu and I believe my ips is malfunctioned I know my tps Is out and I will be working to fix that and adjust to .63 any other hints would be awesome. how ever I did have a question again about the .48 to .52 volts in the hayes manual. is .48 closed volts value and is the .52 volts WOT? I'm just curious why they say all other engines are those values. I have some logs and hopefully with the captured values.