Eclipse GS repairs before mods

[Saved93GS]

Hey guys, I recently bought a 93 GS for $400 and basically got what I paid for. The previous owner essentially did no maintenance, and I'm trying to bring the thing back to life.
I'm going to do a run-through of problems and symptoms that I am getting/facing.
This is my first post so please bear with me. The car is a 93 GS with a 1.8L stock engine and stock manual tranny.
So here we go:
Idle surge: (Idle speed controller currently removed because of the problem. I've bought a couple and it keeps surging TPS has been replaced as well)
Exhaust smoke: I get a nice white/blue smoke from exhast
Oil leak: I've been trying to track it down, but the engine is so dirty from previous owner that I can't clean it enough to find it (Takes about a quart of regular 10w-30every two weeks)
Missing fuses everywhere I don't have a manual for the car and I have no idea what gauge fuse goes where
Broken sway bar linkage? There is a broken steering component and I can't for the life of me find a replacement/figure out the proper name of the part
2nd gear grinds Going into second at above 4k RPM will render a short grind going into gear, but not coming out.
Coolant leak most recent problem and most troubling. I can't find the leak anywhere.
Low oil pressure: stock pressure gauge reads almost no pressure at idle and climbs just to the minimum during hard acceleration.

So far I have replaced the distributor, alternator, TPS, throttle body gasket, exhaust down tube gasket, brake pads and upgraded the rotors, I have changed all fluids, and I have replaced plugs and wires.

This week I plan on doing a compression test to check for internal pressure leakage and hopefully I'll also be able to do a pressure test for the coolant leak.

Help to any of these issues would be greatly appreciated!
I have looked for solutions to these issues to no avail, but I have also resolved many other issues as a guest to this forum

*Attached is a picture of the broken steering component* (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/50870921/IMG_20130627_170734.jpg )
*If anyone could tell me the name of the 1.8l SOHC engine that'd be great as well. Is it the 4G37?

 

[talonracer717]

the broken part is a sway bar end link.

also the surge could be from the idle position switch. im not sure if the 1.8's have them but if it does its a single wire sensor on the throttle body and it could cause it to surge. unplug it and see if it goes away and thats your problem.

as for the low oil pressure the stock gauges in these cars are not very accurate. if you do suspect low oil pressure i would recommend an aftermarket gauge.

and yes your engine is a 4g37

 

[Mischif]

THats just the bolt that broke on your sway bar. Grab a hammer and knock it out of the control arm and out of the sway bar. Either get a replacement bolt from the junkyard or measure the bolt and find a matching one at a hardware store. I would replace all the rubber bushings for it, as yours look horrible.

Its pretty common for the idle speed controllers to go bad. Removing them is the most common way of fixing the issue. Does yours still surge with it removed?

Cam seal, rear main seal, front main seal, oil pump seal, and front balance shaft seal, and oil pan are the main places it may leak.

If second is the only gear that grinds then it is probably due to a work synchro. You can try running penzoil synchromesh in the transmission if your lucky it might reduce the grinding.

As long as your oil light does not come on then your oil pressure should be fine. Make sure that the sensor is hooked up. It is the single wire spade type connector by the oil filter.

 

[Saved93GS]

the broken part is a sway bar end link.

also the surge could be from the idle position switch. im not sure if the 1.8's have them but if it does its a single wire sensor on the throttle body and it could cause it to surge. unplug it and see if it goes away and thats your problem.

as for the low oil pressure the stock gauges in these cars are not very accurate. if you do suspect low oil pressure i would recommend an aftermarket gauge.

and yes your engine is a 4g37

I what appears to be a vacuum line coming from the top of the throttle body if that's what you're referring to

THats just the bolt that broke on your sway bar. Grab a hammer and knock it out of the control arm and out of the sway bar. Either get a replacement bolt from the junkyard or measure the bolt and find a matching one at a hardware store. I would replace all the rubber bushings for it, as yours look horrible.

Its pretty common for the idle speed controllers to go bad. Removing them is the most common way of fixing the issue. Does yours still surge with it removed?

Cam seal, rear main seal, front main seal, oil pump seal, and front balance shaft seal, and oil pan are the main places it may leak.

If second is the only gear that grinds then it is probably due to a work synchro. You can try running penzoil synchromesh in the transmission if your lucky it might reduce the grinding.

As long as your oil light does not come on then your oil pressure should be fine. Make sure that the sensor is hooked up. It is the single wire spade type connector by the oil filter.

Thanks for the info. I'll update later on this week with the dimensions of that bolt, and no, I don't get a surge without the idle speed controller. As soon as I bolt it back on and plug it in I do get a surge though.
Any way I could bother you for a link to the correct synchromesh for this transmission? I'd appreciate it! I'll be looking into the oil leak hopefully later on today. I'll update with what I find.

 

[Saved93GS]

Okay, so after running a compression and pressure test I've found out that cylinder 1 has a produces 80 psi #2 makes 105 psi #3 makes 95 psi and #4 makes 105. I also made sway bar linkages to the approximate length of 5.5 inches, but I'm unable to put them in until Thursday because the previous owner tried to fix the broken linkage by welding in together and it's now welded to the swaybar. So I'm going to have my local alignment shop blow that out with a torch before I replace them(I bought a generic linkage kit and have yet to cut a spacer to the right size as well).
I also found that coolant loss was due to an old and worn out radiator cap and that coolant lines held fine to 18 psi (cap releases at 13 psi).
As far as restoring compression I will be replacing all of the rings, oil pan gasket, head gasket, main bearings and front and rear crank seals(it currently leaks oil from the oil pan seal)
I'll also be having the cylinders honed while I have the block out.
My questions are: Is there anything else I should replace while I have it apart and is the oil pan seal a silicone gasket?