The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Eclipse died while speeding down the highway

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wildfire

Probationary Member
8
0
Jul 31, 2006
Bridgeport, Texas
Please forgive my ignorance. I'm a middle-aged housewife who knows nothing about vehicles. Neither does my husband. I have looked for a long time on this forum and I see that it's not extremely uncommon for a DSM to die while being driven, and I've seen that there can be several contributors. My car died and I worry that once I get it to the shop to get fixed, the problem will be out of my price range. Well, I could just trash the car, no more than what I paid for it...but it's heck wenching the little thing onto the utility trailer, then it's heck getting it off because the front faring is soooo low, I have a trailer and no truck, so I'd have to get someone to pull the trailer to town for me, and back, if the car can't be repaired. I can have it towed, but I really don't want to spend the $50 for a car that might pose a problem to repair.

I bought this 92 Eclipse in May of 2006, supposedly the only thing wrong with it was that the clutch was real, real weak and going out, so the seller delivered it on a utility trailer. Car was clean inside and out, no body damage except that when the seller backed the car off the trailer, it broke off the bottom right part of the faring. I went to Walmart, got some screws and put that back together.

Paid $1,000.00 for the car. Title calls it a salvage car. Mileage is 149497. By the title, I know that an individual had it, then a company got it with some "motor company" name on it, so it may have been a dealer or a mechanic, but whoever they were, they took it to auction and a car dealership bought it, then sold it to me for cash. When I got the car, it ran fine, but no A/C & the drivers side window falls off track when rolling it up (crank windows).

Turns out the clutch burned out because the transmission leaked on it, so we got the leak fixed and replaced the clutch. We also replaced all pads and rotors because we heard metal grinding in the back when we applied the brake after about a month of driving it. It also vibrated very bad at high speeds, so we had the wheels balanced and rotated and aligned the front end. That helped a lot, but didn't solve the problem entirely. Also, both the original mechanice who fixed the transmission/clutch and the mechanic who did the front end alignment, found sheared off lug nuts.

It had/has that annoying belt squeal that I saw mentioned on this forum. We never did anything about that. It also spews black or grey smoke when we accelerate. Never checked that out, either. Our intention was to fix the problems as time and money allowed. We intentionally bought a car with the kind of problems that would allow it to run, but still needed fixing, because we wanted a cheap car we could buy for cash that got good gas mileage, and the Eclipse did do that.

It also had an oil leak, but that wasn't a real issue until my husband's truck broke down and he started driving it to work, 2 hours from home. He drives very fast and more than one time, I griped at him because when he'd start the car to go to work, I could hear the rods knocking. He'd say he'd put some oil in it on the way to work. I strongly suspect that he let it run out of oil, because after just a week or so of driving it, it died. Knowing how he drives, he was probably going 70 to 90 miles an hour.

The oil gague hadn't worked since we got the car. It was on our list of things to get fixed, and we planned to get that done when the mechanic had to open the dash to fix the speedometer, whose needle had fallen off, but the car itself still thought the speedometer worked, so the odometer worked fine.

Hubby gave no indication that the idiot lights had indicated that the car was overheating. The check engine light, if this car has one, never came on, ever, as far as I know. Hubby seems to think that the problem is the timing belt, but he knows next to nothing about cars and hates working on them. Apparently, he even hates putting oil in. :-(

I thought he ran the car out of oil and blew the engine. But he says he didn't & clings to him timing story.

The car's been sitting for a month now. Two days ago, a friend who knows a LITTLE bit about cars came over and he and hubby tried to start it. Friend said it wasn't getting any compression, and tried to talk us into buying another cheap old car with a few problems that his friend has for sale. I refused. My husband has a tendency to kill old vehicles and we have 4 dead old vehicles in our yard currently, all of which accumulated there within the last year.

Apparently, the friend thinks the engine is blown or the heads are cracked or something. What causes "no compression"?

Here's all I can tell about the car's specs:
(the sticker on the firewall is hard to read- I have to stand sort of beside it and let it catch the sunlight so I can make out most of what's written there)
Model: D21AMN; Transmission: F5M and maybe a couple of other numbers or letters; OPT (whatever that means): A00 That sticker does say, "DSM" on it. What I think is the engine, sits crossways behind something that has a big, round, black cap on it where the oil goes in. It says, "4G37" on it.

Even thought it is a salvage car, the mechanics say they see no signs in the undercarriage of the car ever being wrecked or totaled, so we think the "salvage" on the title probably came from a mechanic's lien being placed on the car.

I saw one post here in the forum about checking to see if the spark plugs were getting fire, so I'll have hubby check that next week. I really want him to check the car out himself as much as he can. I love him and he's a great husband, but he's had this old diesel truck that he's driven for a year, and almost every time it breaks down, he claims it can't be fixed. Then he gets tired of buying gas (he gets free diesel through his work) and fixes it. Usually, something has shook loose that he has to tighten. We live on a mile long dirt road that is EXTREMELY bumpy, and to get to his jobs, he always has to drive down miles and miles of dirt roads, too, but none are ever as bad as our road home.

What I need to tell hubby is, "Here's what to check and how to check it", before we go to all the trouble of taking it to the shop. I really don't want to get another old car for him to tear up. He's driving our brand new car now, and those seem to be the only kind that can hold up to him and his driving. But we can't afford two car payments, so for me, it's either fix the Eclipse or start over and go through this again. Personally, in a used car, I'd rather know my problems and repair them, then wind up with a decent running car, than repeatedly keep buying 'surprises' and starting from scratch, especially when the fate of each new 'old' car is sealed as soon as I buy it.

In case anyone wants to reply to me via private e-mail, the address is [email protected] . I'll also check back here for replies. Please pardon my ignorance. I really do like this little Eclipse, though, and enjoy driving it and want to keep it. I have about a thousand dollars to spend on getting it running again.

If it needs a new engine, where do I buy one at? I live in Texas, near Fort Worth.

Thank you in advance for any help or advice I receive.

After all that, I forgot to say that the car will crank but not turn over. That might have been obvious by the "no compression" part that I wrote. Sorry. That's the only thing I forgot. I also put a brand new battery in it. When I bought oil for it, I bought the Valvoline brand for high mileage cars. No telling what hubby picked up and put in it on his ways to work. Could have been anything a convenience store sells.
 
wildfire said:
I have looked for a long time on this forum and I see that it's not extremely uncommon for a DSM to die while being driven, and I've seen that there can be several contributors

Have you checked to see if your timing belt is still intact? Having experienced two failures in two separate cars it feels like your engine "shuts off" and you coast to a stop.

If is the case, you're likely looking at a minimum $500 for new valves and parts/labor to install :barf: :dsm:
 
I have to agree that a car that has jumped timing(broken timing belt) is no fun to repair nor cheap. It also sounds like you have several issues combined. My honest advice would be if you REALLY like the idea of having an Eclipse. You may very well come out on top by just looking in your local ad's. Or Auto Trader, and finding another one. I hate ever giving that advise. However, you may find that the repairs are going to well exceed the worth of the car.
On a side note. Your hubby may just lack the knowledge to repair these problems, and thats very normal. Hence the reason shops and dealerships stay in business. I recommend going to your local autozone, pep boys or what ever you may have and buying a Haynes Manual for your specific vehicle. This is truely a worthy purchase, and will help him ALOT!

Sadly if your hubby is just plain lazy. There isnt much you can do, but buy a car that has been fully checked to be sound. Learn how to turn wrenches yourself, and dare him to ever drive it. :D

PS...Learn to check your fluids, and learn what the lights etc. mean on your new car. Or you are soon to have another lawn ornament at the hubby's expense.

Goodluck!

Wendy
 
ROFL Thanks, Wendy. Yes, he is just plain lazy, too, but he's a hard worker when he's at his job. We joke about it and I try to work around it. Which is why I have to find out what to 'make' him do to check and maybe fix, the car.

Thanks to you, too,...John, was it? Where is the timing belt, what does it look like, and do you think that if we try to change it ourselves, we'll have to pull the engine or transmission? I'm sure that any major work it needs will be done in a shop, but I'd like to have an idea of what the probable problem is before I go to allll that trouble getting the car there.
 
If it has jumped timing its not a matter of just replacing the belt. :( These engines are interference, and that means 99.9% of the time this calls for a rebuild due to bent valves etc. However the belt is located to the right of the valve cover if you are facing the motor. It most likely has a moon shaped cover over it. Good luck!

PS...The belt can still be intact and have jumped. So tell him to make sure the timing marks lign up. Also, this job isnt recommended for the novice.:(


Wendy
 
I think I found it, but it appears to be enclosed. I cannot see a belt in there. I took a picture of it. I circled what I think is what you're saying the timing belt is.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Yup, that's it. Remove that plastic cover, and it'l be in there.
If you were getting no compression at all, I'd say the belt broke since even a tooth off, it will still give compression.
You mention it will "Crank", but not "Turn Over". Could you clarify? By turn over, do you mean start? I must assume it was turning over if they did a proper compression test.

At least it's not a turbo so the price of fixing it probably won't be as much.
Best bet is to see what the garage that did the tranny will charge to diagnose it. (Unless it was a tranny only shop).
If the rest of the car is good, I'd say just pluck the motor and rebuild the whole thing with stock stuff. Chances are after 150,000 unknown miles, it needs it.
Otherwise you take the chance of fixing the timing belt and having a rod blow out 2 weeks from now.
Rebuilding engines are easy. Just buy the manual and find a reputable machine shop to do the head and block work. You probably could do it for less than $700 if nothing is severly damaged.
Or if time is an issue, then find a junkyard that has one with at least a 30 day warantee. (I beleive the motor you have went into several models) Probably get it for @ $300. Have someone replace it. Then while that one is being used, take your time and build the one you pulled. Nothing like dropping in a motor you just built and firing it up for the first time...

But it all depends on the condition and how much you like the car.

Otherwise, it sounds like you need to get a used car with a better history.
Look around and find out where all the cars that get donated to charities end up. I have a dealer close to me that gets them all the time. My brother got a 95 Buick Skylark with 45,000 miles for $500. He's 24, beats the heck out of it, had it for a year and didn't have to put any money into it cept for the brake lines rotted because it sat for years.

Good luck!
 
>>>You mention it will "Crank", but not "Turn Over". Could you clarify? By turn over, do >>>you mean start? I must assume it was turning over if they did a proper compression >>>test.


Oh, really now????? Well, what it does is like, when your battery is almost dead, it'll make that noise but never actually 'catch' and fire up/start? That's what it does. I don't know what they did. I must have run into the house to stir dinner. All I saw was them walking away from it, talking.

The mechanic who fixed the tranny does all sorts of stuff, good and cheap, but he wants me to get the parts, which is fine with me. At least that way, I know what's going in it.

Truly, neither hubby nor I have the time to rebuild an engine. And, wouldn't we need something to lift it out of the car with, like...what's that called.... an engine hoist? Looks like an abandoned swing set with no swings on it?

I'm going to go out there now and take that thingy off and see what it looks like in there. I'll probably take a pic and get right back with ya.

Thanks!!!!!! Y'all are lifesavers!
 
Sounds like your saying the engine (starter), just "clicked", but didn't crank over the engine. If that is the case, I'd like to know how they did a compression test? Even if you turned an engine by hand, it's not fast enough to register a compression reading.

If you do find out it's the timing belt and decide to replace it (and hopefully you didn't bend a valve), then you should definitely pull the pan down and replace the rod bearings. You mentioned no oil pressure earlier and that would be a bad thing. I think you have to pull the pan down on that motor anyway, so you might as well do it.

Actually, if you wanted to rebuild the motor you have, you can do a pretty decent job even if you leave the block in the car. But you need to know that the car wasn't overheated and the piston bores have to be in good shape. Only way to find out is tear it down. I did a 390 in a truck like this along time ago. So I know it can be done. Just make sure your in a clean enviroment.
But if you tear everything out of it, that block probably only weighs 75lbs...

Or an engine hoist can be bought for $150.

I've carried a stripped chevy small block by myself and brought it to the machine shop in a Honda accord. Where there is a will, there is a way.
 
No, it does more than just click. Things are turning under the hood. Just no fire to actually make the car start.

75lbs, huh? Hubby is very stong. He can lift it. Only clean space is in the spare room. Carpet will be replaced when I get around to remodeling it anyway. Plenty of room, and air conditioned. Time still a problem, though, come to think of it. I sit here all week without transportation while hubby is gone all week, working. Then he gets the next week off, but sleeps the first several days, wakes up hungry and wants to go out to eat and rent movies. :)

No, it wasn't no oil pressure. It was that the oil gague on the dash doesn't work at all.

I couldn't get that cover off. Attaching photos. Appears to be a screw on the bottom that I can't see or reach. In the picture I posted above, that big bracket thingy with the 4 big bolts on it, two of which are adjacent to the dip stick, seems to be in my way. I tried to get those big bolts off, but I can't budge them. I can see the timing belt and what little of it I can see looks intact. I'm a bit concerned that some oil from my hands dripped onto the metal teeth-looking like things that the timing belt sits on. I can't tell if they're teeth or not because I can't see in there all that good. But, if I dripped some oil globs on it, is that catastrophic?

Attaching pic and another one of the only tools I have to work with. Fortunately, they are metric and...regular.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
grrr.. I spent 10 mins and wrote a reply, then i hit the backspace and started typing and the whole thing was gone and then I was in another thread...

anyway. The shortened version was to check and see if the belt moved after you turn it over. Maybe mark it.
If the car is turning over faster and free-er than before, then the belt is probably gone.

If it is, then since he was zooming down the highway when it happened, chances are good it bent a valve. (Chrysler K cars were infamous for that and I think that motor is a derivative of that motor). Anyway, unless you test it like I mentioned in the other thread with the air into the spark plug, you will have to tear of the head to be sure. Since you are doing that, you might as well drop the pan and at the least throw in some rings at 150,000 miles.

But keep in mind in terms of scope with the entire rebuild or even just a timing belt, the easiest thing to do is to pull that cover. Changing the actual belt is about 10 times harder and pulling the head about 20 times harder.

If you are going to do it, buy the chiltons manual and read the timing belt section several times before you attempt to do it. Just so you know what you are diving into.

If you want the car to last you a month or two, just do the belt. If you need the car to last you a year or two, rebuild the motor.

Hope this helps...
 
Thanks, that did give me something to think about. As tempting as it sounds, I don't have time to rebuild the engine myself.

Judging from what I'm seeing, y'all are thinking that the timing chain probably developed a problem that a valve was damaged, which resides on the underside of the engine, which probably needs to be replaced anyway, since there are so many miles on the car and it's got an oil leak. Notice how much oil is on my hand in the picture above?

I think I'll call around tomorrow and look for a rebuilt engine and price new timing chains. I hadn't wanted to replace the engine if I didn't have to, but from what I am understanding here, it really, really needs to be replaced anyway. Hubby and I put A LOT of miles on our vehicles, with him working 2 hours from home and me traveling far distances in the volunteer work that I do. It's not unusual for me to put 100 miles a day on a car I drive, most days. And, as you can see by my lack of even the most general knowledge, it's important to me that whatever I drive be dependable.

Anything else I need to check prices on while I'm calling around tomorrow? I can't afford to replace anything that doesn't really need replacing. Like, the transmission was fine, so I don't want to replace that right now, unless it might have been damaged by whatever caused it to quit running.

Thanks a million.
 
If you buy a rebuilt engine, it should include a new belt. don't want you to buy the belt first, then find out it comes with the engine anyway.

Maybe you can check at your local vocational school to see if any high school students are bored during their summer break. See if they will want to tear apart the engine for you. At least that way you can determine if you need a complete motor or not. Even if they don't have the experience to put it back together properly, pulling it apart should not be an issue and you'll at least know where the current motor stands. In high school I loved tearing things apart and was always broke... I did all kinds of things for a good lunch and a full tank of gas..
 
Thanks for the continued good advice. I will post back here and let everyone know what the problem turned out to be, and what I had to do to fix it. Gotta get the money for the engine, so I'll probably be back in a month with that epilogue.
 
wildfire said:
That sticker does say, "DSM" on it. What I think is the engine, sits crossways behind something that has a big, round, black cap on it where the It says, "4G37" on it.


Isn't that the 1.8 non interference engine? If so then no Bad Damage, just new timing belt.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top