ebay valve cover no baffles,, Help!

[0fg]

HELP! I bought an ebay valve cover,, powder coated nice shiny red. Auction clearly stated that the baffles were removed so no media gets trapped under them.

Well, I thought that was a good thing. Today I am doing my valve cover, and I realize that my old severely cracked valve cover has those baffles in place. I search here and read that its best to have those baffles in place.

So, I have no choice at this point, I must install my new red valve cover, because I need the car to be drivable so it can goto a mechanic, and get moved around the property.

What should I do to to prevent damage while running the baffle-less valve cover?

I was thinking of installing a clear fuel filter to the pcv hose, and one to the vent hose from intake plenum. Purpose would just be to visually monitor the oil flow in those lines.

 

[Detective Coating]

Stay out of boost and don't put too much load on it. Take the baffles out of your old one, you can just drill them out where the circular weld marks are and then take it to a welder and have him weld tabs to hold the baffle down.

Something like this:

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[0fg]

O/K, so I have the valve cover and baffles at the local alum welding shop and getting things fixed. I should have this car on the road soon!

Tempted to order a new oem hyundai valvecover off ebay. Cost would be around 140 shipped from Korea, plus the correct gasket set. Any pros or cons associated with those valve covers?

 

[TiradoCC]

You won't have any issues, keep that valve cover.
If you absolutely need to replace it, we have a couple available here we can coat and sell.

 

[Detective Coating]

Don't waste your money on a new one when you can get one powder coated that looks even better for cheaper.

Did you make sure to clean everything out preferably in a hot tank before the baffles were put back in and the tab welded on?

 

[0fg]

Alright, got the valve cover back yesterday. Yes, everything was clean clean. I scraped the hard sludge with several different size screwdrivers, and repeatedly rinsed with carb cleaner. The cover was already bead blasted but still required a detailed scraping. Baffles were drilled out of old valve cover, and completely cleaned with scraping and carb cleaner.

Looks like the welder used the factory tabs and just put blobs of weld on them to hold the baffles in place. Looks very sturdy. I went ahead and scraped around with a small screwdriver to get any speckles of weld off, and to test every weld spot for adhesion. Very solid, and not too much cleanup needed.

Its installed now, and working great.

I did get a mysterious low idle after installation though. I think it was a vacuum leak, because it leaked a little oil too. I tightened a few bolts just a bit more and the oil leak stopped,, and idle seems to be stabilized too. Hard to tell for sure because car is still not registered,, so test drives are short.

Going to tear into the doors today,, and see if I can eliminate a rattle and make them a bit more solid overall.

 

[Detective Coating]

Can you possibly get some pictures up of the welds? I'd just like to see where/how they welded them since they are different materials and I assumed you could not weld the 2 together.

 

[misterskeetz]

I second that. I am trying to sell my powder coated valve cover but the baffles have a couple of busted rivets. Would be much easier to sell if there is a REAL fix for this.

 

[0fg]

Its already installed. Basically they just added a blob of weld right on top of all the original rivet spots. My valve cover had the baffle removed without any drilling apparently. It all fit together real tight and nice, and was an easy job for the welder to just anchor it down with blops of weld.