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eBay Intercoolers

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Okay Kooka, you said you wouldn't waste $250 on the setup he's buying for $340. Show us how you are going to build an equally good FMIC for that price (links will be fine).

You have to understand that some people make enough money to make it actually WORSE for them to spend their time fabricating a kit instead of working and paying someone for their finished product. Let him do wtf he wants with his own money. Maybe someday you'll make enough to not have to make everything you use, like cavemen used to ;)
 
joemathews said:
Okay Kooka, you said you wouldn't waste $250 on the setup he's buying for $340. Show us how you are going to build an equally good FMIC for that price (links will be fine).

You have to understand that some people make enough money to make it actually WORSE for them to spend their time fabricating a kit instead of working and paying someone for their finished product. Let him do wtf he wants with his own money. Maybe someday you'll make enough to not have to make everything you use, like cavemen used to ;)

"Real cars are built...not bought" :p
 
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/intercoolers.htm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=7910241713&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7910918960&category=33742

If I had 600$ to spend, I'd buy a Top/Bottom IC for ~500 shipped and run the piping myself for the extra hundred.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/1gfmic/1gfmic.htm

Pipes look to be alot easier to run w/ a Top/Bottom.

I bought an IC for about 210 shipped (the 18x6x2.5) and I've spent about another 100$ in piping stuff, only bc I took a few shortcuts. I should have bought a few bends, made some measurements, and pay someone to weld it up for me. I'm real obsessive so it would have been really nice to pay for a complete kit, but I didn't see the need too.

I'm not gonna bash ppl who buy these complete kits, hell I'd want one too if I could. Some ppl are more into DIY, and will pay less. Others do not want/see a need to spend time worrying about fitting pipes. They'd rather pay someone whose already ran the pipes, made a kit, and buy that kit.

I can spend the time to install my own exhaust, but hell it'd be such a tedious task I'd rather just pay someone 50$ to install than for me to waste a day doing it. These ppl feel the same way about their IC. It's a cost/benefit thing. Whether or not they got a good deal is another issue. Doesnt make their cars any less "real" by buying a pre-made kit.
 
Kookster...

Look man, don't sit there and bash what I have to say. I made my own Liquid/Air setup on my last car. Piping and all. Spearco core, custom tanks, bead rolled ends, etc. There are A LOT of people on here who can not even think of doing that, that is what JR is in business for. The reason I bought one of his kits, is because it is done right, and I know it will perform just as well as one I would make.

You do realize that most cars that put out real amounts of power have to have the ends of the piping bead rolled right? Maybe you should nut up and get some real boost, the kind that will blow you silcon hoses off, t-bolt clamps or not. Anyway, it is hard to find somewhere to do that for you in most smaller towns. What I do for a living is in my profile. Car Audio/Video Installation Specialist, basically I do custom fabrication and install mid to highend systems in what people want me to. I have been very busy so I do not have the time to fab up the kit, and JR does a very good job especially for the $.

I am not trying to come across as a jerk, but just sit back, crack a cold one and STFU :) . I am just trying to help others out that are looking for a FMIC kit by giving them some more info.

Later.
 
Mackzero said:
You do realize that most cars that put out real amounts of power have to have the ends of the piping bead rolled right? Maybe you should nut up and get some real boost, the kind that will blow you silcon hoses off, t-bolt clamps or not.

weld a bead around the ends of the pipe dummy.
 
kooka said:
weld a bead around the ends of the pipe dummy.

if you don't want to buy a kit don't. this was a guys asking how they were and people giving him some info on them. there is absolutely no point in you sitting here wasting space and bandwidth being a ****. It is people like you who ruin these boards. I wish the mods would just ban trolls like you.
 
kooka - please fill in your vehicle info. Or better yet since i'm in connecticut i'd be interested in taking a look at what parts you have fabbed up for your car. Since your a do-it-yourselfer and have talked about building a fmic. so let the average do it yourselfer go and aquire the tools and parts.
you say that ic is $300, piping is $40, hack saw is $15 maybe? couplers-$56 a foot from turbohoses.com, t-clamps are $5 each and last but not least the welder, lets see, a nice lincoln 115 is around $380 and lets not forget gas and a regulator, now don't forget to add shipping into these items and how bout a welding class to learn how to properly set up a welder, what gases and wires are needed for what metals, wire and voltage for metal thickness, class is about $100 and takes about 6 weeks. and now since some people must do it all yourself throw in the price of a tig, now your looking at $3,000+ for a welder...
So what i'm getting at is you can sit at home and bash a kit that has proven numbers with a builder who has experience and proven results behind it or according to what you've said go hack a kit together. I'd rather use a pipe cutter, mandral bender, flaired ends to put piping together. having a core tiged up that can with stand pressures and not leak. along with having it powdercoated sounds a lot better then, hack sawing, welding a bead around the pipes, trying to find that core that is premade with end tanks and rattle canning the piping to protect it from rusting.
so this thread has turned from something informative to a person complaining that some have too much money to spend. so either get a better job so you can have some extra cash or put together a how-to on building your own front mount and please include all costs including tools needed to preform this and to some, i believe they will find this intercooler to be very reasonably priced.
please go play keyboard commando somewhere else.
 
Poor little Kookster.....

I am sorry you feel the need to call people names that have WAY more fabrication expertise than you do.... It must suck to be that pathetic... :(


ANYWAY back to the topic of the thread.


I am still waiting for my MAF and couplers, but I will try to get pics of the core install up by Sunday! I hope it will help some of you out with the choice you are making on you FMIC setup. :thumb:

Later.
 
Man, I'm a little hesitant to post since I did buy one of these intercoolers. Not off ebay, but because they guys who make them are local, I'd talked to a number of people that said they were top notch and made good power. Plus, I sold my welder a few years back and wanted something I could "bolt in". FWIW, JR's kit is far from bolt in. The BOV location is in the wrong place for a car with stock or 2G MAF, the throttle body mounting has to be cut and modified, and it hits the dipstick on A/T cars. I also had to buy two cap screws for the throttle body mounting to have any chance of it fitting. All in addition to the AC changes.

I wouldn't just buy one of these straight up without talking directly to JR and having him modify the FMIC to throttle body pipe to address issues with your specific setup, he's a good guy and should make the changes. You also can't use any bigger than a 10" fan on the drivers side. That all being said, I'm not running any faster with a FMIC than I was with the stock SMIC.

And for the internet warriors, I did build the bumper myself :)
 

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turbohounds said:
Man, I'm a little hesitant to post since I did buy one of these intercoolers. Not off ebay, but because they guys who make them are local, I'd talked to a number of people that said they were top notch and made good power. Plus, I sold my welder a few years back and wanted something I could "bolt in". FWIW, JR's kit is far from bolt in. The BOV location is in the wrong place for a car with stock or 2G MAF, the throttle body mounting has to be cut and modified, and it hits the dipstick on A/T cars. I also had to buy two cap screws for the throttle body mounting to have any chance of it fitting. All in addition to the AC changes.

i got my fmic from jr and it was perfect. The bov easily attaches witha rubber hose, I did nto modify my ac at all and the tb pieces lined up perfectly.

Also, there is minimal cutting of a 95-96 bumper and I believe no cutting of a 97+ bumper. Also the bumper support stays COMPLETELY in tact.

i have another friend who has the same kit and it bolted up perfectly as well. I would not hesitate to oreder another kit from JR and would refer everyone I know to him. IMHO this is one of the most bolt on kits out there.
 
Well, I will have to wait a few more days to post the pics of the setup on my car....

My wife delivered 3 weeks earily and we have a new baby girl! :D

I will have pics up by the end of the week though.

And I do recall JR saying he was modifying the 2G kit to correct BOV location and TB issues. :thumb:
 
I see that JR sells different sizes and I'm looking at the kit with the core size of 25x5.5x2.7/8 does anybody have this one ona 1G and what did they pay for it???
I was wanting to talk to JR personally to get some ideas is there a way to contact him??

Thanks

Pat
 
I personally bought one of these intercoolers about 2 weeks ago. It really looks like a great piece. Fabbing up intercooler pipes was a snap and so was the install. I could only run 17psi without pulling timing before and now I can run 21psi. We will see the real track results on wednesday.
 
Just get a yonaka intercooler for like $300.
They have different sizes and seem to be good. I have on and another or a couple of other people on here got one . If they want they can chime in . Then make your own pipes , it should keep you well Under $600.

http://streetimports.com/

iF YOU SEARCH ON EBAY THEY SELL THEM for a little cheaper.

,
 
1badtsi said:
those look pretty cheap (poor quality) you can just stick with a real spearco core and make the pipes for the same price, you just dont get the "bling bling" factor


Say what you want , cuase i expected someone to say that. But in your case thats the intercooler i got :p , and guess what ...........
I am faster than you :D It has no problem supporting my 50 trim which has full spool by 3600- 3700 rpms. Stock awd auto tranny. Cant wait till i get the ipt tranny.
Oh also its not even that bling bling,( but everything else under my hood is) Its the only thing i feel i probably skimped on but i dont regret it and its not poor quality its nicer , bigger and probably more effecient than the greaddy 24r.
So go ant tell evryone with the 24r which is tube and fin also that there fmic is poor quality.

your over here bad mouthing my setup when you have no clue how much work and money ive spent or what my setup even is. You should be more considerate and think before you type
 
STECARS said:
Just get a yonaka intercooler for like $300.
They have different sizes and seem to be good. I have on and another or a couple of other people on here got one . If they want they can chime in . Then make your own pipes , it should keep you well Under $600.

http://streetimports.com/

iF YOU SEARCH ON EBAY THEY SELL THEM for a little cheaper.

,

The street imports intercooler is GARBAGE. The end tanks are LESS than 2" innerdiameter.
Look at this link, the street imports intercooler inlet fits inside the JR intercoolers inlet.

http://hometown.aol.com/jjons50850/

BTW even the jdm vr4 intercooler on the right has lager diameter inlets than the streetimports intercooler.

I put my streetimports intercooler back on ebay and sold it for $50 more than I paid for it :)
 
crankbender said:
Especially with alcohol...


EDIT: the fuel will have a tendency to corrode everything in your fuel system and milk down your oil. Don't mess with alcohols unless you know what you are doing.


this is not ture at all the chem makes a difference on what alcohol u use meth no ethnol or E85 is just a tuning issue i have been running this fuel for 2 years in my car and it is fine. i have been running it for about 10 years in snowmobiles. :thumb:
 
kooka said:
just trying to save people a few hundred dollars.

Decent welder $500
Decent helmet $100
Gas $50
Wire $20
Piping $50
Couplers $40
Clamps $60
Powdercoating $60
Bead roller $400
Flanges $30
FMIC core $400-600

Sounds like you'd really be saving tons of $$ building those exacts pipes after you buy all the equipment.

Nick
 
a bead roller LOL what a waste of money.


get a large crescent wrench and clamp it down on the last 1/8" of the pipe. bend down to make a small lip that goes out.
make about 8 of those evenly spaced around the edge of the pipe. this method was how i stopped all my homemade i/c piping from popping off.

ive spiked to 24psi on my currect setup with no pipes coming off. its all silicone hose and exhaust pipe with a couple stock pieces and a couple aftermarket pieces (rre uicp, turbochargers.com jpipe, and of course the intercooler).

check my gallery for a picture of my home-brew ic kit. the price was definitely right :thumb:
 
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