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Dying / Failing Clear Coat [Merged 7-8] cote clearcoat paint dead flaking peeling rot

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I honestly don't think that buffing compound is going to help you out. I mean if the base is exposed then there is nothing to buff.
 
from my experiance it worked. rub away the white crap and you can match the colors pretty easy ..worth a try!
 
my car's clear coat is oxidizing real bad, in places it's even flakeing off. would it be possible, and good to buff the existing clear coat off completely, and then repaint a new clear coat? the existing paint job is after-market. :thumbdown :thumb: :confused:
 
You will have to sand down the paint and rebase and clear the car, there is no way to reclear what is on it without all of the damage showing through not to mention the obvious adhesion problems that will only repeat themselfs.
 
so what your saying is that i just need a whole new paint job?
 
Yep. Mitsubishi's seem to be notorious for this problem. It first appeared on my spoiler and when I had a little fender bender the bodyshop re-painted the wing when the fixed the damage. Now my roof is starting to do it. So do what I'm doing, the car goes in the body shop sat morning. :thumb:
 
Its Mopar period, or anything associated with them. My family owns 2, 97 Chryslers with the same damn problem. Same color paint (ones an LHS and ones a Sebring Conv.), both have clearcoat cancer. My talon has it badas well. Strangely enough, the rusted 86 Ford Bronco still has rock solid orginial paint (well if you don't count where it is rusting). Chrysler just has POS paint quality.
 
My AMC built Cherokee has had that happening for 4 or 5 years now. If I was going to fix it though, I would repaint the whole car. No clear coat for long enough will damage and fade the paint so badly that no matter what you do over the top of it, it won't look very good.
 
how much am i looking at for a good paint job? the only body damage is 3 golf ball sized dings. one on the hood, and two on the passanger door. oh, and a little rust spot right on the hump on the the hood.
 
Well, just like with anything else you get what you pay for. Now a 1G NT is probably worth less than what a really good paint job will cost. What does the car mean to you? Is it just transportation? If so I probably wouldn't do anything about it. If it bothers you that much then take it Maaco and let them paint it for 500 bucks. :thumb:
 
i agree. if you just want it to look decent again, and not cancerous... let maaco give you a 50/50 paintjob for under $500, and they'll probably even take care of those few dents for under that $500 still!

ootherwise, if it's a show car and you want to drop some change on it... expect $1500 and up for decent job, over $2k for a good job. and it just goes from there

but if it's just transportation... leave it or grab a rattle can and have some fun! :thumb:
 
BlackbirdOfPrey said:
Its Mopar period, or anything associated with them. My family owns 2, 97 Chryslers with the same damn problem. Same color paint (ones an LHS and ones a Sebring Conv.), both have clearcoat cancer. My talon has it badas well. Strangely enough, the rusted 86 Ford Bronco still has rock solid orginial paint (well if you don't count where it is rusting). Chrysler just has POS paint quality.

It's possible that the Bronco may not have clearcoat. :thumb:
 
The car that I am picking up tomorrow suffers from the same problem. What I am going to do is wet-sand off the last traces of the clear coat in the affected areas of the car and then out about 5 inches using progressively finer grit wet/dry sand paper on blocks, then spray primer over what's left of the paint and metal, feather the paint in, clear coat out to natural lines in the body with the clear and then wet-sand with 1500-grit, fine rubbing compound, polish then wax. Then again, I'll be using spray equipement so I should be able to get down a good thick layer so wetsanding is an option for me.
 
I still wouldn't do thick coats, even with wetsanding. Maybe I'm too anal about it, but I figure if I'm going to put all that time and effort into it, I'd rather do it in a way that I know will have a nice end result, even if it takes longer.
 
Oh, I'm not going to do thick coats, it's that a HVLP gun will put down a coat about twice as thick as a rattlecan, so with 3-4 coats I'll have enough buildup to wetsand safely, while with a rattlecan, if you had the same number of coats you'd wear right through.
 
hey i'm trying to sell the car, so, maybe maaco is good? or should i even try painting it myself. if i try to paint it myself, and it ends up looking like s**t, will maaco charge me more for a paint job?
 
most shops would charge extra becuase if you spray paint it, that gums up the sanding pads when sanding, taking extra time. but who knows if Maaco would charge extra??

best thing to do, is just have them do it right away. you'll spend a bit on materials, and time... and your not quite sure of your abilities it seems. best to just let them do it right off the getgo, and not have to worry about it.

but if your set on trying first, just call up the closest Maaco, and ask them what they'd charge... both ways.
 
well here's the thing, i've never painted a car before, however, this is a skill that i've wanted to aquire. so, i'm thinking about trying it and seeing how i do. i don't i guess i'll just call maaco.
 
Another way that you could look at it is that if you are going to be selling the car anyway, this might be a good chance to learn. Even if you don't do the best job, it will look better than peeling clearcoat hands-down anyway. If you don't have equipment, you'd have to get custom-mixxed rattlecans, which cost quite a bit, but if you have an air compressor, you could do something like pick up one of the large-area airbrush/sprayers and a water/oil seperator for your compressor and then get the paint relatively cheap at your local automotive paint supplyer. In the long run, Maaco may be cheaper, but doing it yourself you will at least start to learn a valuable skill that can save you lots of cash in the long run (I bought my car yesterday because it had bad paint and I knew I could knock the price down to $2600 for a loaded and otherwise perfect condition TSi AWD and just paint it myself for about $200).
 
Yeah I can't wait to learn how to paint Cars...I'm starting body school in september. But i think Maaco has a 200 dollar paint job thast even cheaper...and if u don't care about the dents and just want a fresh paint job on the car. My g pop got it done on his 87 Buick and it looked Great. I don't know if it's all maacos but the one around me always advertises the 200 dollar job.
 
Even if you go with the Maaco route, you can do a lot to make the job come out better and get familiar with how to do basic body and prep work. Wet sand the areas that you are going to have painted with 400-grit sandpaper, prime it with rattlecans, then wet sand with 600-grit (repeat priming, then sand again until you get rid of any scratches and have a smooth surface). Once you have everything primed nicely, remove and mask off anything you don't want paint on (especially the lights, trim and exhaust which Maaco loves to hit), bring it in and have it sprayed. Maaco will take the car in, scuff it up for a couple minutes, do a basic (really bad) job masking things off and then hit it with paint. If you prep it well, you will probably be able to get a decent paintjob, since Maaco is pretty good at the spraying itself ususally. Just an idea.
 
I have a 95 Talon, white. I was thinking all car has clear coat, but i am not sure.
Does anyone know if i have clear coat on my car? or is there a way to tell? Can the clear coat be gone after 10 years?

any help would be great, thx
 
LOL yes your car has a clear coat from the factory, and yes it could be gone after 10 years if there is alot of acid rain in your area or something
 
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