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DSMlink & stock boost gauge

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DSMnOOb00

15+ Year Contributor
903
4
Apr 29, 2006
FRESNO, California
So I just installed my new ecu with DSMlink, I had a few questions about some basic settings I was looking to change.

What is the difference between "coolant" and "high coolant" for the stock 2g boost gauge?

I also set both fans to stay one all the time.

Is there any other small changes I should consider? I have an almost stock car besides a 16g and basic breather mods

Thanks!
 
Did you hook up the clutch wire? Nothing better than the stutter feature to control your launch RPM.
I like the color of your car by the way... It matches mine...
 
Did you hook up the clutch wire? Nothing better than the stutter feature to control your launch RPM.
I like the color of your car by the way... It matches mine...

The ECMLink (DSMLink whichever you choose to call it) clutch wire has nothing to do with the 2 step (or stutterbox). It is to utilize the NLTS (no lift to shift) feature. The 2 step feature goes off the vehicle speed sensor, and once the car reaches a preset speed (I think the default value is like 8mph) the 2step disengages and allows the engine to rev to the limiter.
 
Ya, stock gauge/ cut it out. Are you tuning yourself? If so I hope you have a wideband, if
not then don't touch any settings until you do. Happy tuning
 
Sweet man! Ya get a wideband and make sure u don't replace the stock o2 with the bung as some may recommend. Your car will run better installing in it's own spot on the downpipe.
 
Personally, i installed my wb in the front o2 location and used link to nb sim. Works perfect.
btw, i 2nd that: nice color. Ive got the same. Getting paint soon and think im going to go with the stock maroon color. That or black. Still up in the air
 
Where is a good spot to install the bung for the wideband?

In the down pipe before the cat?

Yes and before the flex section on the dp (if you have one). Make sure to mount it on top of pipe like at 12 or 3 o'clock position so weather conditions & etc don't ruin the sensor. :thumb:
 
I would also suggest putting the wideband right before or after the flex section, whichever seems better to you. The closer to the turbo the better, but the more heat it will experience. You can use the front O2 spot, but NB simulation is a tricky thing to get dialed in on Link. It's really nice to have the front O2 to control fuel trims at idle and cruise on it's own. There is also nothing wrong with keeping the fans on full time, but it's not needed. All I can say for now is to set up the knock CEL, get a wideband, and start trying to safely max out the stock fuel system. It will give you some good practice before you upgrade.
 
I haven't hooked up the NLTS due to my engine still being broken in (under 300miles)

I wouldn't worry about using it at all, especially with your setup. NLTS is normally used by those looking to pick up a few tenths on the track; I don't really see it being beneficial for an "almost stock car besides a 16G" by someone new to tuning and/or racing.

Use both feet and a shifter the way God intended it; you have enough to learn and worry about as it is. LOL

...get a wideband and make sure u don't replace the stock o2 with the bung as some may recommend. Your car will run better installing in it's own spot on the downpipe.

Not necessarily.

If you are using a wideband for NB simulation, you'll actually get better results with it in the stock O2 location due to the increased delay when it's further downstream, which can be significant at lower airflow values.

The only issue (and this is mostly urban legend), is that it may possibly affect the longevity of the sensor; although I still haven't seen any hard evidence to support this. In fact, there are several cases of people running widebands in the stock O2 location for years with no problems whatsoever. Running a a simple heat sink on the sensor should make this a non-issue.
 
Thanks for the car compliments! I love the Barcelona Red!

Sweet info guys, I was planning on welding a bung in the down pipe before the flex...

Another thing to note, the front o2 is the original sensor, I don't understand why a wideband wouldnt last as long as this sensor in the position it's in.

As for the nlts, can I set a rev limit without having to connect the wire? Just as a precaution, Plus it would be a neat feature to have

I'll also make sure I setup my knock cel
 
The only issue (and this is mostly urban legend), is that it may possibly affect the longevity of the sensor; although I still haven't seen any hard evidence to support this. In fact, there are several cases of people running widebands in the stock O2 location for years with no problems whatsoever. Running a a simple heat sink on the sensor should make this a non-issue.

I've posted on this a few times... . :|

It's not a myth by any means, I've seen W/b o2's die in just a few months in the front o2... While it works whether someone should or not is their call. But, I highly recommend that if anyone does put it the front o2 that they have a W/b sensor that will actual tell them that the sensor is having a Sensor timing error(overheating) Lc-1 comes to mind.

He is a post of mine I put up a few years back and have re posted a few times on here for referance.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152926888-post14.html

It you do desied to do this make sure you make a heat sink like this as Calan mentioned.

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Another thing to note, the front o2 is the original sensor, I don't understand why a wideband wouldnt last as long as this sensor in the position it's in.

Because a narrowband is simply a heated sensor(not controlled) and the whole reason that they are not accurate is that you have to have a controlled temperature to get an accurate AFR. a N/b only cares about whether it's above .51 volts or less it's a simple high / low switch or at least that's how the ECU uses it... .
 

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You make some good points, but as I mentioned; there are many people who have reported no issues (all running a heat sink I would assume), and maybe some that do. FWIW, I've run my Zietronix in the front O2 before, and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I've also had 3 new NB sensors (1 OEM, 2 parts store) fail in the stock location after a short period of time, probably due to abnormally high EGTs.

There are so many variables... average EGT's, type of WB/sensor cell, etc. Like everything else on these cars, what works for some may not for others.
 
So I just installed my new ecu with DSMlink, I had a few questions about some basic settings I was looking to change.

What is the difference between "coolant" and "high coolant" for the stock 2g boost gauge?

I also set both fans to stay one all the time.

This never got answered and I was also curious. As im having overheating issues and my stock boost gauge starts to go up before my engine temps.
 
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