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DSMLINK ISCPosition Q?

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rconlon67

15+ Year Contributor
105
0
Dec 13, 2006
Yardley, Pennsylvania
When logging ISCPosition, what are the normal values I should see? It sits at zero untill I rev the engine.

Also,
IdleSw sits at zero or 1, what should this signal look like.

Thanks for any input,
Ryan
 

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When logging ISCPosition, what are the normal values I should see? It sits at zero untill I rev the engine.

Also,
IdleSw sits at zero or 1, what should this signal look like.

Thanks for any input,
Ryan


Once the car is up to temp the ISCPosition should be 30 when the car is idling and the IPS is closed with the radiator fans and AC switch off
 
idlesw is just telling you if you are on the gas or not. It will be 1 when you are off the gas and 0 when you are on the gas. The idle switch is on the throttlebody with a single wire going to it. It lets the ecu know when to make the car idle.
 
So in my log.. the ISCposition is sitting at zero. What does that mean?

It means that your idle is above the target and the ECU has moved the ISC all the way in trying to lower the idle. Usually because of too much bypass air from the BISS or a leak.
 
It means that your idle is above the target and the ECU has moved the ISC all the way in trying to lower the idle. Usually because of too much bypass air from the BISS or a leak.

Thanks, that is a Great explination.

From your recomendations, I started the car, allowed it to get up to operating temperature, grounded the ecu through DSMLINK, and adjust the BISS, and the reults are shown in the attached Log.

From what you are saying, It appears that since I got the car to Idle, that one would assume I have a leak some place.

I just got done doing a boost leak test this past week. The only place I have air leaking is out the bleeder hole of MBC. This dosent start to happen till about 7-10 PSI. Do I possibly have the MBC hooked up incorrectly? I think It is installed right, but maybe there is an issue there. When I blocked the bleeder hole, the system was able to hold up to 14-15PSI Steady.


Also, in a maybe related, maybe not, I am getting a Error code of 031 malfunctoning knock sensor circuitry, from what I have read it seem that if the knock sensor was DEAD I would see 9 counts at all times, but if I get the error code, that usually means a grounding issue? Is this a good assumption?

Thanks again for the help!

Ryan
 

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210* I would get a colder thermostat.

EDIT: I bought a 180* at autozone for like 10$ . My aftermarket gauge reads arounc 185* and dsmlink reads 186-190*.

Plus I cant remember at what temp the computer pulls time but I thinks thats a little warm to me. I know my CEL light is set on dsmlink to come on at 226* I think
 
210* I would get a colder thermostat.

EDIT: I bought a 180* at autozone for like 10$ . My aftermarket gauge reads arounc 185* and dsmlink reads 186-190*.

Plus I cant remember at what temp the computer pulls time but I thinks thats a little warm to me. I know my CEL light is set on dsmlink to come on at 226* I think

Thanks man,
That def is a little high, I think the ECU start pulling timing above 205?? Anyways, I'll look into it and thanks for the idea.

RyNo
 
The 1g ecu does not pull timing because of high coolant temps. It does pull timing because of high intake temps though.

2G intake air temp ignition advance adjustment:

185F = -3°
132F = -2°
100F = -1°
73F = 0
48F = 0
20F = -1°
-23F = -2°

2G coolant temp ignition retard adjustment

Enter ECU Learn Mode :: 170F (77C)
Coolant Fan ON :: 200F (93C)
Pull 1 degree timing :: 206F (97C)
Pull 2 degree timing :: 224F (107C) *
Enter Open Loop Mode :: 228F (109C)
Default Coolant CEL :: 235F (113C)
A/C Override :: 240F (115C)

1G intake air temp ignition advance adjustment:

185F = -3°
132F = -1°
100F = 0
73F = 0
48F = 0
20F = -1°
-23F = -2°
 
^^ Thanks laser

I still would like to drop the water temp a bit. You probably have a stock thermostat in there which is 192*.

Just gives me a peace of mind.
 
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