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XiKeiyaZI

15+ Year Contributor
6,994
88
Dec 28, 2008
Goldsboro, North Carolina
Alright, so I just installed ECMlink on the 2G and was able to connect (woo!)...but I've ran into 2 issues.

I need to simulate the 02 sensor using the wideband. My Innovative LC-1 wideband is in the stock 02 sensor location. I'm pretty sure that I set it all up correctly in Link. I also setup my FIC 750's and their deadtime changes. I enabled 02 simulation and marked it as the front 02. Now, the first issue is... since I do not have a front sensor installed and the harness is just hanging there, do I wire the brown wire from the Wideband to pin 75.. or 76? From my understanding it should be 76.

Next, this is a 6 bolt swap. It didn't occur to me, when I attempted to start it and failed due to missing/backfire, that the wiring/plugs need to be swapped? The car was running great with the old ECU, but since I installed link are there any settings I need to alter in Link because it is a swap?
 
Well, I got the car running. I forgot to swap the plugs. ;P

My wideband is acting funky. I wired the wideband, brown wire to pin 76 and it shows to be switching via a log... but it's slow. It'll stay up top, and then settle down low...then back up top.. and so forth. Ideas?

This is a log of me idling/reving a little.

Update : Been playing around with it, trying to get everything in good shape. I wired the Yellow wire from the wideband to Pin 76, and the brown wire to pin 75. When I start driving, however, my Narrowband signal freezes at .8v? What, exactly, am I doing wrong?
 

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To my knowledge that is all the front o2 is supposed to do when you are using wideband/o2 simulation. This is what mine does also.... switches between .20v and .80v... Also your combined FT's look a little high raise your deadtime a little to make the combined FT's at idle around -2/+2 %
 
Yeah, I've been trying the above stated things. I've made sure to adjust the TPS and such per the demo, but as you'll soon be explained to...it simply doesn't stay put. I'll get it right, then I'll toss it in reverse and start backing up (IE, the car moving). The Narrowband signal will lock at .8v, the idle will shoot up to 2K, and that's where it sits. my Wideband LED will start flashing to indicate that it's not functioning correctly. =/ My Wideband also sits at about 8 AFRs....so I'm not sure I have the wideband wired in correctly.

So the Yellow Wire is ran to Pin 76, and the brown wire is ran to Pin 75. I've got the thing to a drivable condition, as I use the vehicle for work, but I'd like to get it correct. Am I wrong in assuming that the Narrowband signal should Not stop cycling? Could anyone Screen me a copy of how they have their Pin Selection page setup? I have Front 02 and Rear 02 set as LC1WB. Would this be correct? Also, should I lock the Rear or Front 02 signals? I know if I do the front one, it pegs at .52v and doesn't move.
 
I'm not positive on the wiring of the LC-1 but i highly doubt you would wire it the way you have it.. Why would you hook it up to the front and rear o2 inputs??? it just needs to be hooked up to the front o2 input (pin 76). I have an autometer wideband and there are 2 wires for datalogging. 1 wire goes to the ECU input in my case and your this would be pin 76, and the other wire goes to a ground of the ecu. Im not sure if your wideband has a ground or not... As for your idle set the coasting FC offset to about 100-160. Also check the simulate idle box b/c u r not getting an idle sw reading on your log. It should read 1 when at idle and your reads 0...
 
The brown wire from the factory outputs a wideband signal, so it should go to pin 76 (my bad on the earlier advice/confusion). You then need to pick one or the other - use the LC-1's yellow wire for simulation to the front or use the software. I vote the software, so no need to wire in the yellow wire (programmed for a 0-1v range narrowband sim).
 
I see. Could you elaborate on the Coast settings and whatnot? I'll be first to admit that I'm new to Link and would appreciate any and all help. I've already given you positive rep for the feedback, so don't think the help will go unappreciated.

As for the Wideband wiring, since it's in the front 02 placement, I figured that it would be strictly configured with the 76 Pin, but upon reading the diagrams I have, it confused me a bit I suppose. Here are the two resources I was using.

widebandbasics [ECMTuning - wiki]

And here is the wideband manual. It explains that the Brown and Yellow wires are for Narrowband/Wideband usage. Here ya go, you can interpret it better than I.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf

The brown wire from the factory outputs a wideband signal, so it should go to pin 76 (my bad on the earlier advice/confusion). You then need to pick one or the other - use the LC-1's yellow wire for simulation to the front or use the software. I vote the software, so no need to wire in the yellow wire (programmed for a 0-1v range narrowband sim).

By software, do you mean the Wideband software or Link?
 
Believe me, I know the LC-1 manual pretty well. It's surprising how many people install these and aren't sure how to wire it up.

1. You need to wire up the brown wire to whatever input you plan on taking over with your wideband signal. Since you already have the sensor in the front spot, put the brown wire (0-5v wideband signal) to pin 76 as you noted. You will also then make sure that input is locked on the ECU Inputs tab.

2. You have two choices, as I mentioned, for narrowband simulation
  1. You can wire in the yellow wire to the front o2 wire (pin 76) and the LC-1 unit will output a simulated narrowband signal.
  2. You can not wire in the yellow wire and let the ECMlink software simulate the narrowband signal for you based off of the wideband signal input.

Does that help, or am I just repeating myself and confusing you more? :p
 
Actually i was wrong u should set your coasting fc offset to 50. The rule of thumb is to take what you want your idle to be and subtract it by 900 and that is what you set your coasting fc offset to. As for the wideband wiring you want to wire the brown wire to pin 76 and don't hook up the yellow wire to anything. As snowboarder said use the software (ECMlink) for narrowband simulation. But as i said from you log i believe that is what the front o2 should do switch between .20 volts and .80 volts. It's not going to read like a normal front o2 narrow band. oh and yes as snowboarder said you need to lock your front o2 voltage.
 
Believe me, I know the LC-1 manual pretty well. It's surprising how many people install these and aren't sure how to wire it up.

1. You need to wire up the brown wire to whatever input you plan on taking over with your wideband signal. Since you already have the sensor in the front spot, put the brown wire (0-5v wideband signal) to pin 76 as you noted. You will also then make sure that input is locked on the ECU Inputs tab.

2. You have two choices, as I mentioned, for narrowband simulation
  1. You can wire in the yellow wire to the front o2 wire (pin 76) and the LC-1 unit will output a simulated narrowband signal.
  2. You can not wire in the yellow wire and let the ECMlink software simulate the narrowband signal for you based off of the wideband signal input.

Does that help, or am I just repeating myself and confusing you more? :p

I think I understand, to a degree. Basically I need to lock the front 02 Signal, wire the Brown wire to the first pin I had initially thought of (Pin 76) and be done with it? If by doing this, I should enable Link to simulate the narrowband via the connection I just made (Brown wire to pin 76) and should have no issues? So, in that sense I should not wire the yellow wire to anything. In this manner, will I still be able to obtain a WB reading via Link?
 
Haha. Great. I'll run outside right now and fix that....being that it's freezing and I've only been awake for say... 12 minutes? I'll post updates on it asap.

Is this how my pin selection should be set?

Edit : To amend this picture, I just drove to work. I found out that when I shift to first upon starting the car, letting it warm to open loop, and attempting to drive, the narrowband signal dies. If I kill the car, let the ECU power drop, and then start it...it will drive/function correctly from then on. Driving it to work was fine, the idle was a bit high for the first 3 minutes of driving between shifts but finally leveled down. I think I can blame this on still have a CC box and based on how cold it is currently. Also note that the car idled for about 30 minutes before I attempted to drive it.

I currently have all of the options in the top box of the picture set to Stock. The Wideband at the veyr bottom is set to Front 02, and I have the front 02 unlocked due to the fact that it NEVER cycles the 02 signal when it's locked (Herp Derp. From what I've read this is how that option is to function).

So, what I'd like to do is A: Get my narrowband simulation functioning properly. B: Be able to log my AFR's using the existing wideband. I won't begin tuning until I can do both. Insight? Input? Pictures?

I appreciate the help thus-far. It's running and driving and I am finally able to log! Brian, I owe you too much (ecu specific).
 

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1. Are you still using a rear o2 sensor or no? You can remove it via unchecking "cat efficiency/o2" and then unchecking "lock rear o2 voltage"

Under ECU Inputs, put a name for the LC-1 whether it's "wideband", "LC-1" "Front 02", "barbie fest", etc. After doing that, hit "f10" and select the wideband as how you labeled it. I would click the check box for saving for future use and it will show up on your next log.

From the provided log, your o2 simulation is working as it should.

Edit:
I didn't take notice to it but you already do have your wideband being logged as "LC1WB"

Also take note to your 5.5 second log of knock. Have you checked your knock sensor at all for damage or anything banging around in the engine bay? Lifter tick?

If not, goto the "ASL/Knock" tab and change your knock readings to say 4000RPM and 50% throttle. Also goto the "Dash" tab and change "Knock CEL" to 2*. Your CEL will turn on when the ECU pulls at least 2* timing from knock.
 
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"barbie fest"

Ass. :p

Anywho, I'm still using the Rear 02, but the CAT is removed so I suppose I can disable it. The log that I provided is not current. When I get home this afternoon I will get a cruise log and post it up. What all should I be logging for a more accurate log type? I'd really love to get this lined out asap so as I can begine tuning. >> I may have already been childish for a moment and toyed with the 4500 Launch setting......But no more until this is lined out.
 
For logging, I would add on there to what you already have available:

Battery
Radiator Fan (alters fuel trims when it pops on)
Injector duty cycle
MAF Comp
MAF Raw

That should be good for you for now. More stuff logged the better to be honest but not everything needs to be displayed on screen.
 
Now, question is... can I still utilize my wideband for AFR readings while it simulates the 02? If so, what's the proper way to do this?
 
If you didn't take notice, it's already doing so in the log you posted. Just click on the check box in the log and the lines will show up on the graph.
 
As stated, the log that is posted up there is well before a lot of changes I have made. I'll need to make a new one. What I want to be sure of is that with the brown wire connected to pin 76 that I can both simulate the narrowband WHILE getting an accurate reading of the wideband without any negative effects.
 
Yes you can accuratly log. I personally use the LC-1 with narrow band simulation through ECMLink. My LC-1 is connected to the front o2 sensor pin at the ECU as well.
 
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