Well after messing with the maft/safc setup for over 1 year I wanted more. I really like the idea of speed density and for the price this is hard to beat. I urge you to visit www.ds-map.net to do more reading and see if this is right for you.
OK here we go.
Parts list:
GM 3 bar map sensor(MSD-2313)
GM AIT sensor (MSD-2320)
3/8th npt bung
Moats ostrich
Some wire and loom
Wideband
Socketed eprom
Disconnect the battery!!
For me I had to start by getting rid of my maft and safc. So to the ecu I go. I Unhooked the safc from the ecu harness. And while there pulled the ecu to install the moats ostrich. The ostrich is like a reprogramable eprom chip that never comes out of the car. It installs like a tmo chip but has a computer cable attachedt to it to go to the little black box. The red line on the cable is pin one and needs to be on the same side as the notch on the socket and ecu board.
While you are behind the dash you might aswell wire in the wideband and stutter box wire. Run a wire from the wideband output to the o2 wire on the ecu harness (pin 4) And run a wire from the clutch saftey switch to pin 104 on the ecu harness. (the ise of a 4001 diode at the connection at the clutch switch (green wire) will allow the clutch switch to still work like stock. Both the connections at the ecu eliminate the harness wire. Do not just splice into the wire. You have to cut and connect yout two new input wires. Insulate the original wires from the harness as thay are no longer needed. Here is a thread about wiring the stutter box
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264552
Put everything back togeather your done instide the car. Please make your wiring nice.
Now under the hood:
You need to weld the 3/8th npt bung in yout IC pipe after the IC. This is for the AIT sensor. Since I was running the MAFT in blow through I just found a 2.5" pipe about the same lenght as the gm maf and welded my bung to it. This was easier than refabing my UICP.
Now find a place to mount your map sensor. I mounted mine on the firewall where my MAFT was.
Most of this portion was copied and pasted from ds-map.net but are pics added.
Here is a link to vfaq for map pins: www.vfaq.com/mods/2GMAF-1G.html
Now it is time to wire your two sensors up. They will all get wired into our maf harness. The pims ou want are pins, 4 (sensor power), 6 (Sensor ground), 7 (Baro sensor), and 8 (IAT sensor).
Connect the MAP sensor port A (ground) to pin 6 (sensor ground), port B (output) to pin 7 (baro), and port C (5v) to pin 4 (5v sensor power).
Connect the two wires from the GM-AIT to pin 8 (air temp) and pin 6 (sensor ground). It doesn't matter if you get it reversed, the sensor will work either way.
After your wires are soldered in loom them bad boys up and make them neat. Screw in your AIT sensor(use teflon) and it might look like this.
As for the software I will leave that to the ds-map site and to you. I would however mess with all of it befor you start installing this stuff. You can progeam the ostrich with out it being hooked up to the ECU. Also the base maps will get you close and are very driveable. The Pocket dyno logger program is a very nice feature aswell.
OK here we go.
Parts list:
GM 3 bar map sensor(MSD-2313)
GM AIT sensor (MSD-2320)
3/8th npt bung
Moats ostrich
Some wire and loom
Wideband
Socketed eprom
Disconnect the battery!!
For me I had to start by getting rid of my maft and safc. So to the ecu I go. I Unhooked the safc from the ecu harness. And while there pulled the ecu to install the moats ostrich. The ostrich is like a reprogramable eprom chip that never comes out of the car. It installs like a tmo chip but has a computer cable attachedt to it to go to the little black box. The red line on the cable is pin one and needs to be on the same side as the notch on the socket and ecu board.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
While you are behind the dash you might aswell wire in the wideband and stutter box wire. Run a wire from the wideband output to the o2 wire on the ecu harness (pin 4) And run a wire from the clutch saftey switch to pin 104 on the ecu harness. (the ise of a 4001 diode at the connection at the clutch switch (green wire) will allow the clutch switch to still work like stock. Both the connections at the ecu eliminate the harness wire. Do not just splice into the wire. You have to cut and connect yout two new input wires. Insulate the original wires from the harness as thay are no longer needed. Here is a thread about wiring the stutter box
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264552
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Put everything back togeather your done instide the car. Please make your wiring nice.
Now under the hood:
You need to weld the 3/8th npt bung in yout IC pipe after the IC. This is for the AIT sensor. Since I was running the MAFT in blow through I just found a 2.5" pipe about the same lenght as the gm maf and welded my bung to it. This was easier than refabing my UICP.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now find a place to mount your map sensor. I mounted mine on the firewall where my MAFT was.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Most of this portion was copied and pasted from ds-map.net but are pics added.
Here is a link to vfaq for map pins: www.vfaq.com/mods/2GMAF-1G.html
Now it is time to wire your two sensors up. They will all get wired into our maf harness. The pims ou want are pins, 4 (sensor power), 6 (Sensor ground), 7 (Baro sensor), and 8 (IAT sensor).
Connect the MAP sensor port A (ground) to pin 6 (sensor ground), port B (output) to pin 7 (baro), and port C (5v) to pin 4 (5v sensor power).
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Connect the two wires from the GM-AIT to pin 8 (air temp) and pin 6 (sensor ground). It doesn't matter if you get it reversed, the sensor will work either way.
After your wires are soldered in loom them bad boys up and make them neat. Screw in your AIT sensor(use teflon) and it might look like this.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
As for the software I will leave that to the ds-map site and to you. I would however mess with all of it befor you start installing this stuff. You can progeam the ostrich with out it being hooked up to the ECU. Also the base maps will get you close and are very driveable. The Pocket dyno logger program is a very nice feature aswell.
Last edited by a moderator:
