The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

DSM direct bolt on BOV?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

boost_or_bust

15+ Year Contributor
97
0
Jun 19, 2004
Bismarck, North Dakota
was looking around DSMparts.com and came across the GFB Stealth FX Dual port BOV and was just wondering if anyone has ever bought this BOV, Is it worth the money or should i just get the tial BOV, and if anyone has bought this BOV if there are any sound clips for it. now the main reason i want to buy this is because it is a direct bolt on and i dont need to buy any flanges nor would i have to weld anything.......any info on the part would be much help!!

Link for the Stealth BOV
http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=417&cat=7&page=1

Thanks
Ryan
91 TSI AWD
 
What kind of turbo do you plan on running and at what boost level? That should be your first priority when choosing and aftermarket blow off valve. :talon:
 
Well i dont really have the money right now to upgrade it but i was considering going with the EVO 16g and hopefully run 17-19 PSI but that is something that is to come. Now should i wait till i upgrade the turbo before i get a new bov?
 
saw wave analog said:
just crush or for high boost do the dual vac mod to the one you already have and save 300$

then send me 100$ for the tip :thumb:
Haha thats awesome. He's right, the one you have now will be sufficient but if you want something that sounds good, just get a greddy type s or hks ssqv if you really feel like spending the money. Stay away from the tial unless you are running lots of boost. :talon:
 
Ya with a 1G you don't have the need to upgrade the BOV for a while.

I'd spend the money elsewhere.
 
saw wave analog said:
just crush or for high boost do the dual vac mod to the one you already have and save 300$

well this sounds like it would be the best thing plus it will save $300, but im not sure i know how or what crushing the 1g BOV is nor have i heard of the dual vac mod. are these in the vfaq or the 1000 answered questions?



Thanks!!
 
'Crushing' the BOV allows it to hold a higher amount of boost before it starts to leak open. 1G BOV's are good up to 23-25 psi. Based on what you've said about running a 16G between 15 and 17 psi, you don't need a crushed BOV, nor do you need an aftermarket one. I'm running 20 psi on a 16G with a stock BOV and I haven't had a problem with it yet.

And yes, both BOV modifications are located in the VFAQ.
 
dont take this as a contradiction, it may just be the bov i am using.. but i can see how it wouldnt be noticeable in a recirculated system like dsms use..


my car now is an 85 turbo omni that uses a map sensor instead of the maf that dsms are rocking, so recirculation is not necessary. stock the omnis didnt have blowoff valves, but i put one in due to the massive compressor surge and lag between shifts i was seeing. well.. i went with a 1g because i got it free, and after i put it in there was a definate increase in spool time after shifts and obviously compressor surge was eliminated, but the boost came on a bit slower than before, and the car didnt feel like it was pulling quite as hard as it used to be. the car broke down for other reasons for a month or so soon afterwards, and when i finally had it up and running again the fact that the boost weirdness started soon after the bov install was not fresh on my mind. i was getting a high pitched whine under boost that sounded kind of like like a second turbo spooling.. i knew it was a boost leak somewhere, but after replacing all my vac lines, hose clamps, a couple questionable connectors it was still there.. a buddy of mine mentioned that the 1g bovs leak a bit at all times until crushed, so i went by his place and hooked it up to his vacuum testor.. sure enough, it was beginning to visibly open at ~14 psi, though i know it was leaking well below that in the car because i could hear it whistling as low as 0 vac.

we put it in a vice and crushed it so its not beginning to open until 22 psi, and damn.. did it ever make a difference in part throttle accelleration. wot feels about the same, but part throttle mid boost is worlds apart.. the car is much more responsive around town now.. its actually one of the nicest mods ive done so far because it made the car feel so much more collected as a daily driver, and im sure its helping at wot as well, just not as noticeably

moral of the story? even at stock boost i would recommend crushing your 1g a bit, if nothing else you will get faster response, and if your bov was anything like mine it may give a fairly signigant seat of the pants gain. ive read that its common for the 1g valves to whistle a bit in vented applications until they are crushed so i have a fairly strong feeling that most of them are leaking a bit.

in case you dont have the luxury of a vacuum tester like i did, i would estimate that we crushed it down about half an inch to get the 22 psi spring tension i wanted. dont know if that amount of crush would be consistant between different valves of different ages, but at least its another point of reference for those that dont feel like spending 80$ on the proper tool
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top