DSM bogging at high rpm

[coolrider2112]

Ok, so I got a buzzer from radio shack, and threw some codes, my car bogs at high rpm like it studders and wont go past 5k rpm. Ok I've checked for boost leaks, i changed to 2G MAF jsut to be sure (wanted the upgrade anyways) fuel injectors are fine, got new fuel filter, new plugs gapped at .28, and new wires. Coil packs seem to be fine, car like studders its way to ab out 5k RPM when pushing throttle, driving and just in neutral it does this. Stock boost gauge shows like 0 psi,l but aftermarket shows only like 3 psi, so it makes me lean towards boost leak, and I have no idea where it could be... Like i said I got a buzzer a beeped codes for coolant temp sensor, does that retard the fuel/air ? I heard it does, and I may have got a code for knock sensor, i got a code that beeps 5 times then once, and theres no code for 1G that has 51.My knock sensor is hooked up, I dunno if its really bad or not, Im assuming the 51 code meant 41 for knock i believe that was, can someone please help me figure this out, I just really want to get this running.. Maintenance first, then I will be able to throw 255 fuel pump and all that great stuff on.

 

[monster4g63tawd]

you dont really build hardly any boost in neutral and I wouldnt go off your stock gauge anyway its not accurate at all. idk what your talkin about as far as a buzzer but sounds like you would be better off taking it to a parts place like napa or something and having them check which codes its really throwing, pretty sure that they will do that for you at some places and for free .

 

[datbmac]

Most auto parts stores don't have the necessary tools to check obd I. I can tell you that the knock sensor is code 31 which is three long pulses and one short pulse.

Check this link out http://www.troublecodes.net/mitsu/

 

[coolrider2112]

Ok now its not beeping any codes, just does the constant beep for normal activity, i rev the car and it just kinda bogs its way up to 5000 RPM like its kinda misfiring, but like I said I've changed all the plugs and wires, could the coil packs still be going out?

Oh and another thing that I can bring up is, the person that had the car before me eliminated some vacumm lines, and I was wondering that bracket behind the intake manifold with the vaccumm ports that the vaccumms lines used to go to, is that functional? ### it has no plugs over any of those metal vaccum ports.

 

[monster4g63tawd]

Are you talking about the on the throttle body? If those are unplugged definately plug them

 

[viprez586]

Standard ngk copper plugs gapped at .028"

NO exceptions!

 

[coolrider2112]

Im talking about the metal lines behind the intake manifold, those are all unplugged i think there is about 5 of them, the rubber vacumm hoses used to plug up into them, but they eliminated stuff, but all the plugs on throttle body is covered.

 

[monster4g63tawd]

on the firewall?

 

[coolrider2112]

No its bracket thats like behind the in take manifold underneath by the block, metal tubes about 5 of them, that the vaccum hoses used to hook up to

 

[viprez586]

If there are no lines on the back, then don't worry about those.

You want a single untouched vacuum line to your BOV.
A single untouched line to your wastegate.
And a line running to your FPR (this you can tap your boost gauge into or whatever)
Cap or loop the lines on the throttle body, or use the "P" port for your boost gauge.

IT'S CRITICAL that the BOV and WG have leak free and single untouched vacuum/boost sources for proper operation.

Start there, then do a boost leak test.
Search button ----> "boost leak test", sort by thread title and replies.
Some places to start looking - all couplers & connections, injector seals, turbo compressor seal, BOV gasket, compressor cover gasket, etc, etc.

If you aren't rocking the copper plugs like I suggested get that BS out of there, run coppers and never look back.

That should get you started.

 

[coolrider2112]

yah i bought some copper plugs today and set at .28, ddrove the car finally after awhile, ran like crap, it got to about 5 PSI and thats it and struggled to get there to. I wish i had a logger or knew where to buy a logger so I can figure this problem out. When I drive it, it sounds like cat is clogged or something but I have took off the down pipe just to see if the car can get to 10 psi and drive normally but nope it didnt. I tightened down all the clamps on the pipes, I think what im gonna do is just completely take every pipe off, by the way these pipes are aluminum not the stock. Take everything off and reinstall. So sensors got grimy crap on em so im gonna take out the sensors and wipe them down. Replace the exhaust manifold gasket just in case. With the injectors I've just replaced the stock 450s because they basically all got melted when there was a little fire (fire didnt ruin anything but 2 injectors and a 2 wires on injectors) so I spliced new injector wires on, but just in case I did mix up the 2 wires is there a way to check the injector wiring to make sure I got the right wires hooked up in the right place, theres only 2 wires per injector. That would be helpful.And no the fire did not affect the way the car is right now has same problem before the incident, injectors replaced with 750s, seals are good, I replaced stock maf with 2nd gen just incase that was the problem and of course an upgrade. while ago did throw a temp sensor code but now isnt throwing it, I also should just re do the whole cars timing and cam angle sensor just to make sure thats all right huh? OH and last thing im gonna check knock sensor in case faulty. what u guys think about that?

 

[viprez586]

Use paragraphs and proper punctuation, my head hurts.

First off. Do a boost leak test.

The car will run like shit or not at all with a faulty coolant temp sensor.
The car will stay in limp mode with a bad knock sensor. ongreenperformance sells them.

When you upgrade to the 2G MAF, 550cc injectors are a very close match to how much leaner the car will run due to the increased efficiency of the 2G MAF. You need a tuning device to get it to run perfect, will it be close? Sure it could, but highly unlikely.

With 750s your out of room for an SAFC or the like. Don't waste your money.
Get dsmlink lite so you can tune and datalog - this is one but by far the most superior option in your situation do to cost effectiveness, support, and the fact that you flat out need a program like this to get your car running properly and have a means of logging what's happening.

Keep the boost low/stock till you get a means of tuning.
Beating on the car now is just going to wash the cylinders down with fuel and increase piston ring wear.

Once you get a method of tuning, you can plop in that walbro 255, but you need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to overcome fuel pressure regulator overrun.


I've got you on the right track now. Follow what I said, and by follow i mean research.
You can try guessing about things and doing things the expensive way, or sit down - read a little bit and understand the modifications you are making and what needs to be done to control the modifications properly to achieve a streetable car.

Boost leak test it.
GET A REAL BOOST GAUGE. Hell I have one for sale, all you gotta do is run a vac line. PM me.
Get DSMlink lite, or a variation of tuning those way too large(750s) or even too small(450s).

Then you can start messing with boost and additional fuel.

 

[airmail96]

Viper pretty much summed it up.