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Dropping oil pan and replacing gasket

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4gfun

Supporting VIP
2,009
55
Dec 10, 2007
Ask Me, Virginia
Just wondering if there is anything I need to watch out for when doing the job. Is it just a simple oil pan gasket change where I drop the pan and replace the gasket?

Do I reuse the gasket or replace with a new one? Are the bolts prone to snapping?

Any obstructions?

Thanks
 
Thanks for the tips so far. I just went under there and it looks like I have to remove the transfer case and the driveshaft? Mind you this is a GVR-4.
 
Thanks for the tips so far. I just went under there and it looks like I have to remove the transfer case and the driveshaft? Mind you this is a GVR-4.

Well if its anything like a 1g dsm then yes, you will have to drop the t-case, and removing the driveshaft all depends on where you are working. On a lift? Yes. Jackstands? Nope.
 
Well if its anything like a 1g dsm then yes, you will have to drop the t-case, and removing the driveshaft all depends on where you are working. On a lift? Yes. Jackstands? Nope.

Ok, that will work...thanks.

I will lose fluid when dropping that T-case if I recall correctly right? (did it last year when swapping out the clutch but would rather forget LOL).

If I do lose fluid, I want to at least get some redline in there.
 
You will never have to remove the drive shaft to drop the transfer case. It is 3x the work if you do. Just remove the transfer case retaining bolts, slide the transfer case off the transmission, and pull it off of the drive shaft.
 
You will never have to remove the drive shaft to drop the transfer case. It is 3x the work if you do. Just remove the transfer case retaining bolts, slide the transfer case off the transmission, and pull it off of the drive shaft.

Sorry I'm a little tired, misread his question. I thought he meant removing the drive shaft from the transfer case. When I'm on the ground I usually just let the t-case and drive shaft rest on something soft. And yeah fluid will come out of the transfer case if you don't tilt it back.
 
Ok, that will work...thanks.

I will lose fluid when dropping that T-case if I recall correctly right? (did it last year when swapping out the clutch but would rather forget LOL).

If I do lose fluid, I want to at least get some redline in there.

Shock proof on the t case
 
i had one leak because the pan had been over tighten so where the bolts go through was bent and not flat anymore. I ended up making a strip of flat aluminum to go around the outside of the pan so all the bolts press down equally on the pan. Never had a leak since.

I would make sure your oil sump bolts are tight when you are in there. Also +1 on the two short bolts. I lost a new greddy timing belt because I had a bolt eating it. Just my 2cents.
 
Thanks for all the help. Is there a screen in there I want to check while I am at it? I thought I read something about that too.
 
Thanks for all the help. Is there a screen in there I want to check while I am at it? I thought I read something about that too.

Yes, thats the oil pick up. If it has junk on the screen it needs to be removed. Also check the insides of the pan for forgien debris like metal chunks or bearing material. Scrape the bottom of the block with a razor and clean the pan gasket mating surface GOOD! I used a bead of RTV to seal her back up. Actually with the pan off check for any play in the rod bearings and shine a light up there to see if there could be any impending damage starting to happen. Please remember there are 2 short oil pan bolts and they cant be mixed with the longer ones. If you put a long bolt where a shorty should go, its gonna dig into your timing belt.
 
I just dropped mine n it had black rtv all over it but would be good to have a dremel with a wire wheel to get old gasket off cause can't get it all with a blade n make sure to use grey rtv that's oil resistant.....
 
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I just dropped mine n it had black rtv all over it but would be good to have a dremel with a wire wheel to get old gasket off cause can't get it all with a blade n make sure to use grey rtv that's oil resistant.....

This is true, my 2g had a RTV gasket from the factory. Not sure on the 1g though
 
Make sure you take out the inspection cover for the bell housing as a few bolts over in that area are a pain in the ass. Should be the same as the eclipse on your vr-4 they do make a cork gasket and im using it and it works fine, while under there clean the oil pickup tube and check everything down there. I checked for any wear play and debis that i could see
 
Well there is one bolt that I can't reach on the passenger side. The axle is blocking it and it is tight enough where I can't get an open end wrench to turn more than once. I am not thrilled about pulling the axle and losing my 6000 mile old redline tranny fluid. Another option seems to be pulling a member right above it but I don't want the car to come down on me if I am not sure what that member does.

Not sure if this is just a GVR4 thing or what.

Thoughts?
 
Im not sure but that sounds weired, it could be because your awd so it could be correct and i dont want to say as i own a fwd sorry buddy
 
Im not sure but that sounds weired, it could be because your awd so it could be correct and i dont want to say as i own a fwd sorry buddy

Well I actually meant driver's side bolt...the axle is blocking it. Been searching around and it does say to lower the axle on that side.
 
Oh i see is there no way around it even with a small angled socket? Anyway to post a pic up for us to look at
 
Oh i see is there no way around it even with a small angled socket? Anyway to post a pic up for us to look at

No pics but there is not enough room for a socket to fit in there. I had to remove the 14mm bolts holding the axle and let the axle loose. I had to pry it towards the front of the car and get a #3 screwdriver on the head of the last 10mm bolt to turn it. All the bolts are out and the pan is cracked loose. The pan is still stuck up there being held in by the member and the axle.

:banghead:

Got it down after pulling the driver's side cross member.

Does anyone know exactly where the short bolts go?
 
Removal of the oil pan is a relatively easy job, you defiantly want to replace the gasket if it's old. They're not cheap. Make sure to look and see if there is a specific order of where you fasten the bolts to get everything evenly fastened!
 
i just did this yesterday, except went more in depth removing my rods/pistons cause they need replacing.

transfer case needs to be removed
lowest bolt on the trans inspection plate should be taken out.
exhaust needs to be removed
half-shaft bracket needs to be loosened to the point of almost being taken off. (the oil pan gets caught between the bracket and the oil pickup inside)

that bolt that you're having trouble with the axle being there, i got it off with a small open ended wrench. its a tricky spot, but trust me it works.

after all that, you should be able to maneuver the pan around while prying back the half-shaft bracket to drop it down.

this was on a awd 2gb eclipse mind you. idk how the galant suspension and stuff is in comparison
 
Thanks for all of the help guys...not sure if anyone noticed it, but I did get it off a few posts above. After removing the crossmember bolt it was a piece of cake. It hung on the pickup a bit but was nothing big.
 
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