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Driving Without Trans. Mount

Posted by _1466_, Aug 8, 2010

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  1. _1466_

    _1466_ Proven Member

    73
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    Joined May 10, 2008
    North Haledon, New Jersey
    Today I discovered my trans. mount sitting on the trans. without any bolts. Both holes in the transmission casing are completely stripped and there is excessive movement in the bushing. The worn bushing must have eventually caused the holes to strip out from constant torquing back and forth on the bolts? Or the last shop to work on the car... actually, lets not go there. It's very unsettling knowing that my transmission hasn't been attached to the chassis during numerous launches and I hope the drive train hasn't been damaged. :barf:

    What would be the best solution for this issue other than a new trans. casing? I read many other threads and I'm leaning toward using Heli-Coil inserts in the holes. However, I'm not sure if they'll have enough strength for a mount. Any input is greatly appreciated!

    Chris
     
  2. josh38127

    josh38127 Proven Member

    152
    1
    Joined Oct 2, 2009
    Memphis, Tennessee
    My car has Heli-coils there to do thread stripping. I ran my car ran like that for years, but it was a bone stock .
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2010
  3. rlacasse1

    rlacasse1 Proven Member

    1,830
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    Joined Jan 6, 2009
    Scott AFB, Illinois
    Heli-coils will be strong enough. They are surprisingly strong. Or you could just retap the holes and use a different sized bolt.
     
  4. _1466_

    _1466_ Proven Member

    73
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    Joined May 10, 2008
    North Haledon, New Jersey
    Thought about that too. Drill bigger holes in the mount and use bigger bolts if I'm worried about Heli-Coil inserts.
     
  5. rstchris

    rstchris Proven Member

    427
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    Joined Oct 5, 2008
    kingman, Arizona
    I HATE Heli-coil. They have failed on me a couple times. There are other, better thread repair kits out there. Whetever you decide to do, stud it cause once the repair threads are in you don't want to ever use them again. More wear/ more fail. Locktite the stud and Helicoil.
     
  6. _1466_

    _1466_ Proven Member

    73
    0
    Joined May 10, 2008
    North Haledon, New Jersey
    My first choice is TIME-SERT. I just couldn't find any local vendors...
     
  7. GRAVEDIGGER

    GRAVEDIGGER Proven Member

    2,700
    101
    Joined Nov 26, 2007
    Uniontown, Ohio
    Do what you have got to do to get the time-serts. They are much better and easier to use as well as stronger IMHO.
     

    2K  18

    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    12.149 @ 115.940 · 1G DSM
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  8. josh38127

    josh38127 Proven Member

    152
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    Joined Oct 2, 2009
    Memphis, Tennessee
    Forgive the newb question.What is timesert.:hmm:
     
  9. _1466_

    _1466_ Proven Member

    73
    0
    Joined May 10, 2008
    North Haledon, New Jersey
    Instead of utilizing a helical coil of wire like the "Heli-Coil" does, TIME-SERT implements a solid bushing insert to replace the damaged original threading. The top three (or so) threads actually expand into the new hole which is nice. Check them out: TIME-SERT.
     
  10. ReYnd

    ReYnd Proven Member

    324
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    Joined Dec 8, 2009
    Deep Water, West Virginia
    Goooogle iiiit! ++ TIME-SERT :p

    Time-Serts do look much stronger, which I would want if it were me doing this repair. I just performed my first two Heli-Coil repairs the day before yesterday. Low torque applications, and I don't intend to be taking the bolts out any time soon (that is, once I put them in :coy:). They're expensive by my standards (needing only one or two inserts of each pitch), but I'll warn you now that Time-Serts are $50+ a kit.
     
  11. _1466_

    _1466_ Proven Member

    73
    0
    Joined May 10, 2008
    North Haledon, New Jersey
    I know, So much $$$! You hit it right on the money. The stock bolts literally ripped out... I want to use the strongest product I can.
     

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