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Drivers side axle DOJ popping OUT.

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TJs91tsi

15+ Year Contributor
54
0
Sep 3, 2006
Tucson, Arizona
Ok. Heres some background. This car is not the one in my profile. Its a 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX. It was origionally an Auto, but I swapped it over to manual. For this swap, I used a 1990 Transmission, T-case, Rear differential, passenger and driverside axles including intermediate shaft and carrier bearing... Also, potentially very important, the previous owner lowered it using sprint lowering springs. And I converted it from Abs to NON ABS...

Heres my problem, I got the car running, and took it for a test drive. All was well, i took it home. Later, I was screwing arround and I took off in my yard and hit a small bump.. it stuffed the drivers side tire in the fenderwell and I heard a clump clump clump that I could also feel. I checked it out and the inner joint had popped out and was flopping arround, now wedged into the oilpan...

I pulled the axle, replaced it and figured it may have happened by chance. i inspected everything and noticed nothing out of the ordinary... took it for a nother test drive, was going about 80 and slammed on the brakes doing a controlled panic stop, for fun ya know...LOL. The weight shifted and stuffed the tires again causing the drivers side axle to pop out again.

Now, since the control arms, struts and all other suspension components are the same between auto and manual AWDs, what the hell is going on? Thousands of people are driving on lowered cars, that should have nothing to do with it! The control arm is the same length so the axle lengths should be the same as well.

Is there a real difference between Abs/ and non abs axles aside from the reluctor ring? The new axle did have the ring.
It does have a manual carrier bearing...
I considered putting stock struts back on but thats not a real fix.

What the hell??

Thanks guys, Tyler.
 
Make sure you are tapping the axle all the way in so that the retaining ring sets. The assembly can be put together as normal even if the axle is not completely in and can fool you into thinking all is well. Visually inspect that the axle is all the way in, don't just trust that it is.
 
This is on the drivers side. Its an equal length shaft on the end of the intermediate shaft. There is no retaining ring.

The problem is that the axle and bearings are tearing the boot and pulling all the way out of the inner cup. Tyler.
 
Is their a slot on the splines for a c-clip?

ok ill say it again. This is a drivers side axle. Yes the intermediate, or center shaft, whatever, has a clip on it to hold the inner cup on but thats not the problem im having! The cup is staying exactly where it should, it can not physically slide on too far, and its not popping out.

My axle is being torn in two if you will.
Axle shaft is departing its greasy little home, the inner cup.
Axle stuck to wheel, inner cup stuck to car... El separatedO..

Supposed to look like this, http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/a1c/603121.jpg

but it looks like this, minus the whole toyota thing of course...nice broken CV axle pictures from cars photos on webshots

Im considering is a combo of the lowering along with a messed up motor mount, Ill have to check that out tomorrow. Tyler.
 
Ok the drivers side motor mount is completely destroyed, its sitting on the metal, now since the motormounts can effect the angle enough to harm a cv joint, im betting that combined with the lowering, it added way too much angle leading to axle ejectulation.... Anyone have any thoughts before take 3??

Thank you. Tyler.
 
axle what? uhh LOL.
You have any issues with the engine rocking back and fourth when on/off throttle?
Try to jam something under that engine mount or fill it and fix it.

I dont think there are differences in the auto mounts or where the engine sits, that wouldn't be right.
As far as your wheel moving, thats going to be suspension related, have you tried to kick the wheel and see if that can move it?
Everything under the car tight?
 
Axle ejectulation... Where your just trying to have fun, then suddenly your undersides all messy and you cant limp anywhere... hahaha.

Yea ill jack it up and see how much of a change it makes. With it sagging, it is deffinately adding to the problem, so i have a spare filled on, ill chuck it in there, and if it looks good, ill try again. Tyler./
 
Ok well, the top, drivers side motor mount was in horrible shape, causeing the engine to droop very low.

So I believe that the engine was drooping down causing the shaft and axle to droop down with it. The wheel was stuffed up because of the springs creating a lot of angle, and when I hit the bump, the angle became just too much... That appears to be the cause, however still kind of scary.. seems like there should be another factor. can you say delicate?

Hope this helps someone. If anyone has any other ideas, shoot em my way. Tyler./ :talon:
 
Sounds like a typical Honda hybrid problem. Axles ahh. Do you notice any vibration? I noticed since you replaced your T case and gearbox with a 1990 unit in a 1991 and the car is lowered it not only changes your axle angles but changes how much axle play you have. It sounds as if you are crushing the axle cages. Almost sounds as if you do not have enough play in the axle/cages/hub. Not sure if the 1990 and 1991 trannys are different as far as axle lengths but something is off. When the car weight is on the ground you at ride height should be able to grab your axle and should be able to move your axle atleast about 1-2 inches back and forth if you are to pull towards the tranny and away from the tranny. If you have less than that. then you know. Axles are binding are too long, and when you take a hard corner or brake hard the suspension is flexing and smashing your cages. If that is your problem then you need to raise it back up until you get the right length of axles. I had the same problem on my H22 hybrid honda Civic hatch back in the day.
 
Ok well, the top, drivers side motor mount was in horrible shape, causeing the engine to droop very low.

So I believe that the engine was drooping down causing the shaft and axle to droop down with it. The wheel was stuffed up because of the springs creating a lot of angle, and when I hit the bump, the angle became just too much... That appears to be the cause, however still kind of scary.. seems like there should be another factor. can you say delicate?

Hope this helps someone. If anyone has any other ideas, shoot em my way. Tyler./ :talon:

that could very well do it as well.
 
haioku-rocket Sounds like a typical Honda hybrid problem. Axles ahh. Do you notice any vibration? I noticed since you replaced your T case and gearbox with a 1990 unit in a 1991 and the car is lowered it not only changes your axle angles but changes how much axle play you have. It sounds as if you are crushing the axle cages. Almost sounds as if you do not have enough play in the axle/cages/hub. Not sure if the 1990 and 1991 trannys are different as far as axle lengths but something is off. When the car weight is on the ground you at ride height should be able to grab your axle and should be able to move your axle atleast about 1-2 inches back and forth if you are to pull towards the tranny and away from the tranny. If you have less than that. then you know. Axles are binding are too long, and when you take a hard corner or brake hard the suspension is flexing and smashing your cages. If that is your problem then you need to raise it back up until you get the right length of axles. I had the same problem on my H22 hybrid honda Civic hatch back in the day.

Hey thats what a honda buddy of mine said.. See thats whats funny though, I dont believe the bodies or suspention ever changed at all, between 90s and up or between autos and mans. And since I used all of the parts that were different between an auto and manual, i shouldnt be having a problem. Im just worried because this is the third Auto to manual swap AWD swap ive done and i dont want this trouble if the others are ever lowered. Now the other thing is, your saying my axles are too long...Mine are too short. They just arnt long enough to stay in the inner cup when the angle changes. The cup appears to be ok, not crushed or anything.

Ill give the motor mount a try first, another car of mine has a brand new oem mount on it so that should help out. I put it on and it rased the axle cup and engine about 5/8 of an inch, maby a little more. That should be a pretty good angle change.

Thanks guys. Tyler./ :talon:
 
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