Driver front wheel knock when going over bumps

[obsidian]

1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

112k original miles.

Pretty much what the title states. Whenever I'm going over bumps I can definitely hear the drivers side something smacking around. Sounds like a good thump. The passenger doesn't do this and nothing from the rears.

I've already replaced the tie rod ends.

Tires are brand new and on stock rims.

I have checked the bearings already and couldn't move them.

the sound doesn't replicate under load or braking. only over bumps.

i've also checked the strut/spring combo for loose bolts and found nothing.

 

[thomcasey]

Check the strut cap for play, and the ball joint.

 

[1995gstdsm]

I wanna say ball joint, and thats awesome you have a 1990 with that low of miles

 

[DSM1G90]

112K is good enough to say "tired struts" though.

Bounce that corner of the car up and down and let go.

If it stops at the upward bounce when the strut is fully expanded, the strut is good.

But, if the strut begins to go back down or goes all the way down for the second bounce, it's a goner.

 

[obsidian]

I was very curious if the strut could be what's doing it but why the knock if the strut is gone?

What is a good way to test the ball joint? Even with all the crap I've rebuilt and done, this is one of the few things I rarely ever mess with. On the newer car I just replaced the entire lower control arm.

How do I test the strut cap for play? Haven't seen/heard of that before either. Like I said before, I checked every damn nut/bolt in the are and found nothing loose.

yea man. I bought it figuring the cluster was a swap in. The poor car was TORN UP but some dbag in southern Louisiana (funny I live there now...) and I've just been restoring her over time.

So I did a carfax report just to find out that EVERYTHING matched up perfectly with the current mileage! I was super stoked and quit driving her so much. Don't want to rack the mileage up. This car is a gem!

 

[DSM1G90]

Raise that corner of the front end with a floor jack to where the tire is just barely off the ground, but don't put the jack anywhere near the suspension-it all has to float while suspended off the ground.

Take a long bar of sorts and similar and put directly under the lower arm and raise up on the bar to push up the lower arm.

If any play in the arm before it pushes up on the knuckle assembly is noticed ... iffy ball joint.

Good luck - DSM

 

[kleenf4i]

Tie rod, ball joint or struts would be the culprit. It is also possible for sway bar bushings. The easiest way to tell if your ball joint and/struts are bad is by the tire wear. If you have major wear on the inside of your tire( assuming your car isnt lowered without a camber kit). This would almost defiantly lead to struts and/or ball joint. The reast it makes a bad sound when struts go out is because theres no longer any rebound in the shock to keep the spring from fully compressing. Thus, you will usually hear a rather nasty "KLANKING" sound.

Also,Make sure the tie rod bolt has not loosened since you replaced it it.

 

[obsidian]

Well I did some work today.

I shook the whole damn wheel as best as I could and could only get light noises. I did however notice one major thing. I have about 1-2mm of play from left to right and top to bottom. I swapped to the other side and no play at all.

I'm thinking the wheel bearing is shot.

Tie rod is still good. Tire wear is perfect.

The ball joint appears to be in great shape so again, I'm leaning towards the wheel bearing finally going out.

 

[DSM1G90]

Had to replace mine back at 163K miles ago .. now, i'm at 189K. Things love to wear out with age .

 

[obsidian]

Well after talking with some senior mechanics in the area...

that LITTLE bit of play shouldn't be a bad bearing. No grinding or whining or anything...

And the fact that when I installed this stock suspension I remember seeing no rubber bushing on this one wheel.

So we're leaning on the spring rattling around in there. This only happens over fast bumps. I can go over any bump slow enough and nothing happens. Fast, or smooth and everything is kosher.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

The wheel shouldn't move. You may have a bearing going out. Time frame on wheel bearing going out is diff for every car.

Prob not your noise. Possible bad strut mount. Ball joints in my experience usually make their noises with turns and any bump hit upwards of 15mph usually. If the spring is seated right with the rubber cushions installed it should not make any noise.

 

[sccrbrandon4788]

If you can rock the wheel back and forth, the ball joint is bad. I have seen where those cause some noises, like knocking, otherwise it causes there to be play in the steering wheel. So if you jack the area in question off the ground and the wheel moves more than 1/2" I would say that's you're problem. If you get into it and want to take of the wheel and disconnect the ball joint, it'll be obvious its bad when its all disconnected. The threaded part will be really loose, new they are very stiff and not easily moved.

 

[obsidian]

I've already stated that I only have 1-2mm of play from side to side and top to bottom. My steering is super tight and absolutely no play.

The rubber in my spring/strut combo is missing.

So my wheel bearing is worn but not done for. That's good because of funds right now but I'll check it occasionally to ensure it's not toasted.

 

[bcracecar]

Sounds like a ball joint to me... could always do the ball joints and wheel bearings at the same time

 

[1killerEVO]

worn strut mounts

 

[asianandy87]

Tighten struts, check struts, check ball joints, control arms, re check tie rods.
Also check lugs, and rotors and axles.

 

[obsidian]

Tighten struts, check struts, check ball joints, control arms, re check tie rods.
Also check lugs, and rotors and axles.

Struts are tight on top and where they bolt to the hub assembly.
struts seem to be alright minus the one missing the rubber boot.
Need to check ball joint again.
Tie rods are still tight.
lugs are all tight.
Rotors and other brake hardware are tight.
Axles are perfect.