Driveline Deceleration Noise = Clutch or Flywheel?

[carfan2000]

Well I have the infamous deceleration noise/whine that is the subject of many posts. It is driving me crazy and I’d like to fix it. So I called Shepherd Transmissions a few weeks back figuring it might be a worn drive pinion bearing in the rear differential. However, I was surprised at the response I was given. They immediately suggested it was my clutch. Could this be the cause? I don’t want to come off like I’m second guessing—I’m not. I called them because of their stellar reputation. I just would like some input from others that may have dealt with this problem and may have fixed it.

I think it is important to note that the noise began immediately after installing a new clutch (WORKS Kevlar Clutch) and Fidanza Aluminum Lightweight Flywheel. This would seem to further backup what I was told by Shepherd Trans.

So, do you guys think it is the clutch? I really would like to eliminate the noise, although based on what I was told it sounds like something I may have to live with (which I do not want to do). Also, I’d like to make sure I’m not doing any damage to my car by ignoring the sound, which is why I’d like some feedback.

Description of problem:
Loud gear whine under deceleration, noise goes away under load (i.e., when accelerating) or when in neutral.

Other possible causes (based on my research)
• worn drive pinion bearing in the rear differential
• Lobro joint
• u-joint
• carrier bearing

I’ve read several posts where people have replaced many of the “causes” listed above and found they still have the noise. I found this thread informative, but still would like to see if anyone has eliminated the noise and if so, what worked?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/265892-loud-drivetrain-noise-deceleration.html

BTW, I have not removed the balance shafts in my car.

 

[4Motion4g63]

Identical sounds on my stuff....

Mine is a hard teeth rattling sound, almost like a freewheel on a bike that needs oiled but just louder, push in clutch and gone same all the way around....
My noise may be allot louder due to the fact i have Absolutly NO interior...
I ALSO have herd the clutch as culprit argument...
Witch I do have a Kevlar sprung solid disk from comp its there stage 2 i think..
My throwout bearing is also very noisy....

I was thinking mine may be a result of worn motor mounts and the motor binding the transfer to the yoke?
So I have some new ones i need to install ASAP or as soon as i get time....
I will post back anything if it improves...

 

[carfan2000]

I’ll keep my fingers crossed that changing the motor mounts will help. Looking forward to hearing the results. on the “no interior”. That would drive me crazy.

BTW, I did try shimming the drive line based on the following link on the VR4 forums, but I didn’t notice any difference. I may try one more time, but don’t hold much hope.

GalantVR-4.org: Possibly another solution for driveline decel noise

Here’s a pic of the clutch in my car.

 

[sandiballs287]

its probably a bearing in the tranny going out. i was hearing the same noise, the wining while decelerating, so i changed the gear oil. 2 days after that one of the gears shifted and made a hole in the tranny throwing oil all the way back home. horrible smell to it too. Im not sure which one it is called but im think its the one that is connected to the input shaft to the engine. when i opened the housing if that some teeth were grinded and there was hole right under that gear. i attached some pics of wgat i found. it also happened during normal use.

 

[bsbllfit7]

is there any update on this because i just installed the LWFW and i am having the noises on decel only as well. Quite annoying and just want to make sure i wont grenade anything haha

 

[4Motion4g63]

I have figured out my rattle...
The 2 bolts that hold the Drivers side half shaft to the block were backing out I guess, I ended Up with one broke off in the block and the other one missing...


My car has been sitting for 8 months since this, I cant get the broken bolt out without pulling the motor... blah... CHECK Those bolts... Easy to catch before they are broken flush to the block and youre screwed......

This counts as the 2nd time this has made my car inopriable
I thought it was the clutch the first time, turned out those bolts fell out
giving me bad clutch like symptoms since the halfshaft fell out the transfer case and the car just Limped....

I admit I have completely lost interest in my DSM..... because of this kind of crap.

 

[Rollinukwn]

I have figured out my rattle...
The 2 bolts that hold the Drivers side half shaft to the block were backing out I guess, I ended Up with one broke off in the block and the other one missing...


My car has been sitting for 8 months since this, I cant get the broken bolt out without pulling the motor... blah... CHECK Those bolts... Easy to catch before they are broken flush to the block and youre screwed......

This counts as the 2nd time this has made my car inopriable
I thought it was the clutch the first time, turned out those bolts fell out
giving me bad clutch like symptoms since the halfshaft fell out the transfer case and the car just Limped....

I admit I have completely lost interest in my DSM..... because of this kind of crap.

Man drill a small hole in the bolt and get a easy out .. 8 months wow..
Buy some good bolts with a lock washer and use red locktite ... Now im worried !......

 

[4Motion4g63]

Man drill a small hole in the bolt and get a easy out .. 8 months wow..
Buy some good bolts with a lock washer and use red locktite ... Now im worried !......

attempted that already, akward area to reach period. so its still rotting in the drive way...

 

[Mitsu82330]

attempted that already, akward area to reach period. so its still rotting in the drive way...

I've been dealing with this same problem over the last couple of weeks (same bolt has broken twice now). I ended up taking it to a shop, where they used a 90 degree angle drill to extract the bolt. Cost me about $100 to have the shop perform the work. I have learned through my research for a cause of the problem that you must use OEM bolts here as aftermarket bolts tend to shear off.

 

[lasershark]

if the bolts are the same grade then a bolt is a bolt but most bolts you pick up from a hardware store like home depot don't have a high enough grade (strength/toughness) rating.

 

[Mitsu82330]

if the bolts are the same grade then a bolt is a bolt but most bolts you pick up from a hardware store like home depot don't have a high enough grade (strength/toughness) rating.

I would agree for the most part, but I believe with this particular bolt there seems to be a need for OEM because of design. I found numerous postings from others who had similar problems (kept snapping these bolts) and only resolved the issue through the use of the OEM bolt. If you look at it closely it has an extra thick shank below the head of the bolt that fits snugly in the bore of the bracket it passes through. Aftermarket bolts don't have this extra thick shank which allows for vibrational movement leading to the bolt snapping off. In addition, the second bolt that snapped on my car was a 10.9 grade, not the typical 8.8 grade junk you find at hardware stores, which further reinforced my belief that this bolt must be OEM.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/433284-awd-intermediate-shaft-bolt-help.html

 

[Tony818]

Well I have the infamous deceleration noise/whine that is the subject of many posts. It is driving me crazy and I’d like to fix it. So I called Shepherd Transmissions a few weeks back figuring it might be a worn drive pinion bearing in the rear differential. However, I was surprised at the response I was given. They immediately suggested it was my clutch. Could this be the cause? I don’t want to come off like I’m second guessing—I’m not. I called them because of their stellar reputation. I just would like some input from others that may have dealt with this problem and may have fixed it.

I think it is important to note that the noise began immediately after installing a new clutch (WORKS Kevlar Clutch) and Fidanza Aluminum Lightweight Flywheel. This would seem to further backup what I was told by Shepherd Trans.

So, do you guys think it is the clutch? I really would like to eliminate the noise, although based on what I was told it sounds like something I may have to live with (which I do not want to do). Also, I’d like to make sure I’m not doing any damage to my car by ignoring the sound, which is why I’d like some feedback.

Description of problem:
Loud gear whine under deceleration, noise goes away under load (i.e., when accelerating) or when in neutral.

Other possible causes (based on my research)
• worn drive pinion bearing in the rear differential
• Lobro joint
• u-joint
• carrier bearing

I’ve read several posts where people have replaced many of the “causes” listed above and found they still have the noise. I found this thread informative, but still would like to see if anyone has eliminated the noise and if so, what worked?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/265892-loud-drivetrain-noise-deceleration.html

BTW, I have not removed the balance shafts in my car.

Did you ever find a solution?

 

[bastarddsm]

Yeah, put a stock clutch/flywheel back in your car.

 

[Tony818]

Yeah, put a stock clutch/flywheel back in your car.

I have been really thinking about it thanks. Just had to double check it wasnt anything else