Doing a Rebuild - OEM or Aftermarket Internals?

[TeeWX98GST]

I spun a bearing not too long ago and it put scars on my crankshaft and on the inside of the rod. So basically I am forced to pull the engine and get the crankshaft turned and do a rebuild of the bottem end. Last time I checked my compression it was at 158 in every cylinder. So it sounds like my top end is good.

A friend of my dads who owns an auto mechanic shop business is going to be helping me do the build. He races and has built many engines/cars over the years. Basically from what I understand the only machine work we can't do at his shop is turn the crank.

I am not sure if I should rebuild my engine as OEM or use aftermarket parts. Basically my goals are 3-400whp. My budget for the bottom end is around $1,500 in Parts.

If I were to do an aftermarket build, these are the parts I'd use.
-Wiseco 9:1 pistons
-Eagle H-beam rods
-OEM turn and polished crank
-ARP hardware (head studs, main studs, and rod bolts)
-Clevite bearings

Would I be ok using a stock head for now until I save up more money? I have a spare that I can build if necessary.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

If your budget is $1500 including labor, then you're better off sticking to OEM components. Check the crank (I'm not a fan of turning cranks), check the piston/rods, get a new set of rings/bearings/bolts/studs for the mains/rods etc. and do an OEM rebuild. Since you are not looking for over 400whp, you should be perfectly fine and even then some. A stock head with a stock headgasket (use arp headstuds) are also a great combination.

 

[TeeWX98GST]

If your budget is $1500 including labor, then you're better off sticking to OEM components. Check the crank (I'm not a fan of turning cranks), check the piston/rods, get a new set of rings/bearings/bolts/studs for the mains/rods etc. and do an OEM rebuild. Since you are not looking for over 400whp, you should be perfectly fine and even then some. A stock head with a stock headgasket (use arp headstuds) are also a great combination.

The budget is $1,500 in parts only, not labor since we are doing this on our own. Thanks for the info, I know for a fact that one of my rods has seen too much friction and will need to be replaced, the other 3 look good so far. Would a new set of rods/pistons from mitsubishi be alot cheaper then what I had planned for aftermarket?

 

[Zex4g63]

You don't need ARP main studs and the rod come with ARP bolts in them. What about the oil pump? Find a reputable crank grinder, most of them screw up the fillet for some reason.

 

[turboglenn]

I'm on the same combo (except OEM main bolts) and my ultimate goal is to crack the 500 horse mark. I would say that your parts are correct, and although some might consider ovcerkill for the same power a stocker can handle i like the added piece of mind that my 400 horse motor can take 700..not that i'm at 450 and on the edge of destruction with OEM internals (which is an overdrastic statement but you get the point)

 

[chrisb33]

ive seen guys over 400whp with bone stock 7 bolt motors BUT with meth injection.

Im building a 6 bolt motor using stock crank and rods with brand new 2g pistons and rings. will replace bearings with clevite and acl race and arp hardware all the way.

i do have have meth injection though. i suggest allocate some money for meth system if you're going OEM if you dont already have one (Havent checked your profile)

hope this helps.

chris b