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Doesn't idle after MAF-T install

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spintek

Probationary Member
16
0
Oct 19, 2005
Hampstead, Maryland
Hey my friend and I are installing the MAF-T on my m/t 98 GSX, we installed it on his a/t 95 GSX 2 weeks ago and it runs great. We installed the maf-t on my car in the exact same manner as we did his and whenever we start it up it revs up to about 2,000 and slowly cuts out instead of idling. When we hit the gas it sounds fine (HKS BOV is sooo loud).

Stuff we installed today: MAF-T, GM MAF, Dejon Tool UICP, HKS SSQV.

We do have the dials set for 4-2 (450cc injectors) and 1-1-1 (just to add 5% on everything) and had them set at 0-0-0-0-0 and 4-2-0-0-0 and still didn't change it any. We found a boost leak and fixed it immediately, still didn't fix it.

Could this be a vaccuum problem? It's -20hg and it used to be around 10-15 (stock turbo and stock BCS).

(Don't let this affect your reply much but..) we installed the N1 turboback exhaust system earlier today and we ran it for 20 minutes just fine.
 
couple questions: what size maf are you using, and do u have the translator dip switches in the correct position?

what version of the translator are you running?

one thing you could try if you have the base and dip switches set up properly -- once the car is started and running play around with the idle knob keep it at zero at 1st add a few clicks clockwise see if it idles better, or take some out ( counterclockwise from zero) if it starts to die use your hand to bump the throttle up some keep it from stalling while u alter the idle knob and let it go and see if it will idle on its own.
 
also is the maft setup in drawthru ( gm maf where the stock airflow sensor used to be) or blowthru in the upper intercooler pipe?
 
hereitcomes said:
well the MAFT should still get a reading whether it is blow thru or draw thru.

If it's draw thru he can't vent the BOV...which he is doing with his setup and we don't know what kind of setup he has :)
 
bmwisthekey: We are using a 3inch GM MAF, and yes the translator dip switches were in the correct position, we checked all that, plus we did it to my friends the other week and it runs fine. The version Maf-T i am running is 2.02. The Maf-T setup is setup as a blow thru in the upper intercooler pipe. WOW! that hks ssqv is loud as shit, sounds awesome I love it!

UPDATE: We drove it around for 30 minutes and I let the ecu remap the fual trims. After driving for 30 minutes the car was able to idle, however it would end up idling all the way down to 500-800 rpms' and would make like a studdering noise out of the exhaust, however it would not cut out anymore.

Which would be a safer way to get rid of this problem? Increase the fuel or increase the BISS (base idle set screw) screw on the throttle body.

Also today I installed the full n1 exhaust system which also sounds amazing, I love it. Car was stock this morning and by the end of the day had full exhaust, blow thru setup, and boost gauge. Tommorow im installing the turbosmart dual stage boost controller and turbo timer. Feels like a whole new car!!! :rocks:
 
Adjust the BISS... You added an UICP and maf-t your going to usually need to play with the BISS in that case anyways. I've found that getting the car to idle properly after a MAF-T intall always requires idle knob to be 5-15% richer.
 
xcelr8n said:
Adjust the BISS... You added an UICP and maf-t your going to usually need to play with the BISS in that case anyways. I've found that getting the car to idle properly after a MAF-T intall always requires idle knob to be 5-15% richer.

In doing research that is the conclusion we came to that we had to do, adjust the BISS. Was reading a FAQ on it and it said there is something You have to ground in order to get it to work, do You know anything about that?

Its not as bad now as it was when I first installed everything, like when I run it for a while it seems to idle ok. Its when it sits for a period of time when it starts to loose its idle and eventually cut out.
 
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