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did my clutch go?

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Lookin4aDSM

15+ Year Contributor
40
0
Aug 30, 2005
Boyertown, Pennsylvania
Ok, I bought my 90 plymouth laser rs turbo with a blown tranny, so i put a new one in (my dumbass forgot to put the new tob in..used the old on) and i had alot of noise coming from the belhousing. Also the guy told me after putting the tranny in that a spring in disk was extremely loose. Anyway I drove it around this morning for about 10 miles and then parked it. Came out to it about 4-5 hours later and i noticed the clutch was disengaging like right off the floor. So I go to put in 1st gear and it grinding a little bit. While Driving I heard a squealing noise (like a belt) but would go away if i pushed the clutch in. I pulled in to my friends driveway and instantly smelled clutch really bad. So i get in it and try to get it home (i live 3 blocks away) and about a hundred feet from my house i push my clutch in to stop at a stop sign and i heard a clunk and i can hear grinding in my belhousing. so immediately shut my car and pushed it the rest of the way. A little bit later i went out to see if it would move and with clutch in (car in gear) it will start but the car will buck like the clutch isnt disengaging. I can't put my car into gear once the car is running. I NEED HELP!!!! :mad: thanks in adance
 
Your clutch isn't disengaging properly due to your weak torsional springs on your clutch. I am sorry to say your clutch is pretty much fried man. You should also check your freeplay on your clutch to see how badly the clutch is worn out. When the clutch wears, the diaphragm on the pressure plate assembly moves outwards closer and closer to your Throw up bearing, I mean throw out bearing. Throw up is when you get the bill for that job ROFL. Just kidding, if you do it yourself its not bad. This is what you should get:

1. ACT2100 clutch kit or ACT2600 clutch kit
2. OEM Throwout bearing.
3. ACT flywheel
4. If you decide to get the ACT2600, you will be needing that longer rod that goes into your clutch slave. This will improve disengagement and engagement.

Anyway I hope that helps. You should get those parts replaced before your wreck your tranny. If you want to get OEM parts thats fine as well. However, if you are going to make 300HP or more I recommend the aftermarket stuff.
 
i do all the work to my cars myself unless its under warranty so labor costs are about 28 bucks....a case of miller lite :thumb:
 
Hey man when your clutch goes it is like no pressure at all and you can put it in and out of gear without the clutch thats what mine did and on Nov. 5th I am fixing my Clutch . What part of PA do you live in if its close we can have a clutch party :boring: LOL . I will probably put a picture on here with a snap of what my clutch looks like! :)


:dsm:
 
I badly burnt my clutch recently, it started slipping and disengaging all the way up. In the end I was able to idle in 5th gear untill I got my act2600 and fidanza flywheel :D
 
Just FYI, I had a recent problem where I had problems getting the clutch to engage a gear, and almost all resistance was gone to it. I ended up having to replace most of my hydraulic system on it :|
 
I'm about 45 minutes northwest of philadelphia.

Yes, I had that problem before in my last dsm.....the collar thats part of the belhousing that the tob rides on was completely sheared off! I hope this isn't my case, just bought this transmission 3 weeks ago from a guy on here that has been rebuilt a few thousand miles ago. So I guess its time to start expecting the worst and hoping for the best.... :cry:
 
Being a believer in the proper tools I very highly recommend a factory service manual if you are not intimate with clutch installation. Ebay has them. Be sure it's a factory one. The clunking and grinding can't be good. Pull the tranny, hope for the best, clean it up and inspect the damage. Get your new goodies and follow the directions in the manual to the letter. You will be so happy and proud of a job well done. Not to mention the expense of doing it twice. Good Luck
 
Hey man when your clutch goes it is like no pressure at all and you can put it in and out of gear without the clutch thats what mine did and on Nov. 5th I am fixing my Clutch . What part of PA do you live in if its close we can have a clutch party LOL . I will probably put a picture on here with a snap of what my clutch looks like!

That is a very extreme case. Your clutch was soo worn out that the clearance between your flywheel and pressureplate was too much for your worn out clutch. Basically instead of getting standwiched between the flywheel and pressure plate, it just stays in the middle and basically just hands out. Even if you pressed the clutch pedal down, the clutch disc at that point is too thin to grab.

Lookin4aDSM should replace his clutch or he will be replacing is tranny later.
 
when I first got my car I was driving down the freeway in LA and a side mirror fell off and hit my car if you car has trouble going into gear check your slave cylinder. You will see all the break fluid just spill out, and if it is installed wrong it will break within 20 miles. They are only like 50 dollars. If the Slave is still good then it is your clutch!

:dsm:
 
ok guys thanks for the info I will be tearing it apart in the next month or so thanks for your help Zach
 
Don't get a longer slave cylinder rod, just order a new clutch fork and ball from the dealership. After a while the notch wears further and further into the fork from the slave rod, giving you less and less travel. This is a reason why a lot of people have disengagment just off of the floor. Putting a longer slave clyinder rod is only a bandaid and you are delaying the inevitable. Do it right the first time and get the fork and ball ($65 dealer part) and you won't have to worry about doing it later.
 
i second kuzo on this one. replace the tob fork and check the slave and master cylinder.pull the boot back from the slave cyl. and if there is any fluid inside it throw it away. you might also want to check the clutch petal assembly.1g's are known for wearing them out,causing issues w/ disengagement/engagement.
 
I recently had a similar problem, and was told to shim the pivot ball that screws into the tranny bell housing. Look at where the release bearing arm protrudes out through the square boot on the front lower bell housing. With the arm pushed over towards the passenger side so that the release bearing is just touching the clutch, the arm should be either in the center of the square hole or towards the driver's side of center line. I just used a M10 flat washer.
 
^ Good to hear, where do you put the washer? Where the ball meets the fork or behind the ball, where it screws into the tranny?
 
ok well I drove to my house yesterday on my lunch break took the slave off and the clutch fork is sloppy (no tob on it i guess LOL). I can move it back and forth freely with my hand. So hopefully no input shaft damage AGAIN! I will be taking off work monday to take the tranny out and hopefully put it back together. I got a oem clutch from advance auto and i got a oem TOB and clip from the dealer. Hopefully tuesday i can drive my laser to work and start breaking in that clutch!
 
OK well took the tranny out today and tob came out in a couple different peices. My Input shaft is a little tore up (grooved) AND I BROKE MY HAND looseing the tranny mount bolts!!! I SO TIRED OF MY DSM!!! I will be sure to post pics of carnage so you guys and girls and can get a good laugh.......... :mad: :mad: :mad:
 
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