did i toast my motor? please help

[Kringle]

ok so awhile back i was working on tuning my car and doing a lot at once. Anyway i put a MBC on and forgot i had it on when i went for a drive. Tonight i was looking through old logs, cause I'm about to start the car here in a few weeks and found this one. The log says i hit 50psi and 13.7 AFR but there was no knock, at the time i of the pull i only had knock pulled up on the screen. The rest of the log is the drive home there is a few spots where knock randomly hits like 6 deg. Where should i start to look to see the damage before i start the car. I've pulled the motor a few days after this to fix some stuff and clean things up a bit. There was no oil in the coolant, motor rotates fine, still need to to a compression check, boost leak check, and I'm thinking after this log maybe a leak down as well. There was no metal in the pan and bottom end seems ok.

Did i just get really lucky you think?

 

[Kringle]

Anyone? I've been looking for info on what kind of damage i might find or may see. Anyway, from the sounds of what i read and that the motor seems to be ok i might have gotten lucky i guess. Head seems fine, and the motor is holding what air i can put in it (20psi then my tool blows off the turbo). Besides pulling the motor and tearing it apart, any other checks i can do with the motor in the car? Other then compression and leak down?

 

[GST with PSI]

Not sure where you're seeing 50 PSI in the log at. I don't see a MAP sensor being logged.

I can tell you one thing, you're out of injector. Dude, when your IDCs are at 110%, that's bad. You can clearly see where your AFR starts to track lean as your IDC rises. That's a clear sign your fuel system doesn't have what it takes to support your setup. Your MAF Comp also needs a little work, but it's not terrible.

I have no idea if you broke something, but I know for sure you will break something if you don't remedy your fuel issue. Either turn down the boost, or upgrade the fuel system. I'd recommend doing both in the near future before your toasted motor suspicions become a reality.

Red line = your IDC...BAD
Pink line = your actual AFR...Lean
Yellow line = your target AFR

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[Kringle]

Not sure where you're seeing 50 PSI in the log at. I don't see a MAP sensor being logged.

I can tell you one thing, you're out of injector. Dude, when your IDCs are at 110%, that's bad. You can clearly see where your AFR starts to track lean as your IDC rises. That's a clear sign your fuel system doesn't have what it takes to support your setup. Your MAF Comp also needs a little work, but it's not terrible.

I have no idea if you broke something, but I know for sure you will break something if you don't remedy your fuel issue. Either turn down the boost, or upgrade the fuel system. I'd recommend doing both in the near future before your toasted motor suspicions become a reality.

Red line = your IDC...BAD
Pink line = your actual AFR...Lean
Yellow line = your target AFR

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

i was getting 50psi from boostest and airflow showing 70.9lb/m. Trust me i had no intentions of keeping this setup as is. I accidentally left my MBC connected when i went for a drive. I was just starting to work on tuning, infact i think you gave me a few pointers a couple months back. Ive been reading up on tuning while I've had my car apart, decided to look a few logs and see what I've learned and how i can apply it to my situation and thats when i found this log. Thanks for the advice though its appreciated, seeing the Boostest and Airflow so high freaked me out. Also, the fact that i was running so lean and my timing was at 0-4.

 

[GST with PSI]

Your boostest and airflow numbers are probably not even close to being accurate. Boostest and airflow are simply calculations made by the ECU, which in your case are heavily relying on your GM MAF (which in itself is notoriously inaccurate). Judging from your HP/Tq estimate, you're nowhere close to 70.9lb/min. So, if that's what you're worried about, don't be.

A MAP sensor is the only accurate way of logging boost, and gives you something to compare boostest and airflow to to make sure they are both accurate. Add a MAP sensor to your array if you want to check boostest and airflow for 100% accuracy.

 

[Kringle]

Your boostest and airflow numbers are probably not even close to being accurate. Boostest and airflow are simply calculations made by the ECU, which in your case are heavily relying on your GM MAF (which in itself is notoriously inaccurate). Judging from your HP/Tq estimate, you're nowhere close to 70.9lb/min. So, if that's what you're worried about, don't be.

A MAP sensor is the only accurate way of logging boost, and gives you something to compare boostest and airflow to to make sure they are both accurate. Add a MAP sensor to your array if you want to check boostest and airflow for 100% accuracy.

Funny you mention a MAP sensor because i have one ready to go in, along with a IAT sensor as well, still working on intercooler piping as well as freshening up the suspension. I started a thread a week ago asking about being able to log a MAP and IAT sensor while running with a MAF (heard MAF was easier to get started). Maybe you know? Can i use the ECMlink MAF cable to hook up IAT and MAP and log the values while on a MAF? Or do i need to put the IAT and MAP on different pins at the ECU?

 

[doubleclutch]

Google is your friend:

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/sdsetup

 

[AdR]

Funny you mention a MAP sensor because i have one ready to go in, along with a IAT sensor as well, still working on intercooler piping as well as freshening up the suspension. I started a thread a week ago asking about being able to log a MAP and IAT sensor while running with a MAF (heard MAF was easier to get started). Maybe you know? Can i use the ECMlink MAF cable to hook up IAT and MAP and log the values while on a MAF? Or do i need to put the IAT and MAP on different pins at the ECU?

It all depends on your setup. If you have an OMNI Power MAP it would go to your normal MAP plug, then you are just logging IAT with the MAF (it has it built in) and MAP from the Boost Pressure source. If you are going with the SD Cable setup with the GM MAP that plugs into your Barometric input then you have to do one of the two options shown in the link below:

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/sdcabledecision

 

[GST with PSI]

I started a thread a week ago asking about being able to log a MAP and IAT sensor while running with a MAF (heard MAF was easier to get started). Maybe you know? Can i use the ECMlink MAF cable to hook up IAT and MAP and log the values while on a MAF? Or do i need to put the IAT and MAP on different pins at the ECU?

The short answer is no, you can not use an IAT and MAP sensor with the MAF. You can use one, or the other, but not both.

The others answered this question, but I'll just recap what they said.

You can run any sensors you want. The problem is, especially on a 1G, you don't have a lot of free ECU inputs while running a MAF. Your total available inputs are:

1G ECU

• EGR Temp Input (ECU Pin 15)
• IAT Input (ECU Pin 8)
• Baro Input (ECU Pin 16)
• Front O2 (ECU Pin 4)
• Coolant Temp Input (ECU Pin 20)

These can be seen here: http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/externalsensorinput

With the MAF installed, you only have EGR, Front O2, and coolant temp. Coolant temp is a no-go for obvious reasons. That leaves you with EGR and O2. One of these should be used for your wideband, which if is being used to simulate your narrow band signal will leave you with exactly 1 free input. That input can be used for MAP or IAT.

The swap to speed density is super easy. If your global fuel calculations are already good on the MAF, switching over to speed density is no problem. However, if you're tune is jacked form the get go, then you'll have some work to do.

Check out this thread for some pertinent info : http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/maft-v2-vr4-tuning-first-attempt-help-please.511093/

@COVR4355

 

[Kringle]

It all depends on your setup. If you have an OMNI Power MAP it would go to your normal MAP plug, then you are just logging IAT with the MAF (it has it built in) and MAP from the Boost Pressure source. If you are going with the SD Cable setup with the GM MAP that plugs into your Barometric input then you have to do one of the two options shown in the link below:

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/sdcabledecision

Thanks i didn't find this link before with my search, but was the info i was looking for.

The short answer is no, you can not use an IAT and MAP sensor with the MAF. You can use one, or the other, but not both.

The others answered this question, but I'll just recap what they said.

You can run any sensors you want. The problem is, especially on a 1G, you don't have a lot of free ECU inputs while running a MAF. Your total available inputs are:

1G ECU

• EGR Temp Input (ECU Pin 15)
• IAT Input (ECU Pin 8)
• Baro Input (ECU Pin 16)
• Front O2 (ECU Pin 4)
• Coolant Temp Input (ECU Pin 20)

These can be seen here: http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/externalsensorinput

With the MAF installed, you only have EGR, Front O2, and coolant temp. Coolant temp is a no-go for obvious reasons. That leaves you with EGR and O2. One of these should be used for your wideband, which if is being used to simulate your narrow band signal will leave you with exactly 1 free input. That input can be used for MAP or IAT.

The swap to speed density is super easy. If your global fuel calculations are already good on the MAF, switching over to speed density is no problem. However, if you're tune is jacked form the get go, then you'll have some work to do.

Check out this thread for some pertinent info : http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/maft-v2-vr4-tuning-first-attempt-help-please.511093/

@COVR4355

Thank you for breaking it down a bit more, was very helpful. Makes more sense why a lot of guys simulate their narrowband to free up an extra input at the ECU.