cyl 2 misfire

[badhabits]

I recently bought an eclipse gsx turbo. I've been trying to figure out what the hell the kid did to it so it will run great. It was giving me a misfire on cyl 1 . So I replaced spark plugs and wires. I realized he had cyl 1 hooked up where coil 2 was and reconnected it the right way. Now I got a misfire on cyl 2. So I bought a new coil pack. Still getting a misfire on 2.
I had to drive it and it ran like crap when I got to where I was going and basically had to turn right around. It didnt want to rev. felt like a hog. almost like I was going to run out of gas or something. So I started it a few days later and its running great and not bogging. I dont want to keep replacing part after part. someone said may be timing, maybe the new plugs since bosh is garbage (heat rating 8). One guy told me fuel filter . . man oh man. When I did take it out I was driving behind my buddy in his evo and other in a ws6 so I did beat on it and the temp would be high when I got there , but I also beat on it the three days of having new plugs in so ya. any help would be great. If ya get my problem fixed first try ill buy you drinks or food or something at dsm/evo shoot out at norwalk, ohio

It does have a bunch of upgrades. Do you think It could have something to do with the MAF translater computer? I still could connect it back to stock? or take time to tune it on that box? I have no idea what I am doing so all the dials on the MAF translator are set to 0. I am not sure If I would trust myself randomly turning those dials unless instructed by someone who knew what they were talking about

 

[slow8033]

So, is the car heavily modded? What means of tuning are being used? Seeing as you said "set to 0" I'm assuming its an SAFC controlled car? Sorry, but we need to know more about the mods on the car before we can give an educated guess. You have some listed in your profile but not much about tuning software.

Lastly what makes you think its a misfire? Did it throw a code?

 

[badhabits]

ya its a code.

16g turbo
dejon front mount intercooler
HKS BOV
a mass airflow sensor box called MAF translator
boost guage , air fuel ratio guage
slow boys racing manifold
external tial waste gate
2.5" exhaust with high flow cat and muffler...
(did just find my vacuum hose of the turbo wasnt hooked up just fixed that)

the kid I bought it from said he recently redid the timing belt.. but other than that one night that was the only time it ran like crap , with the plugs and wires and coil pack. I didnt take the fuel rail off so I know it wasnt something I did.

I read that I should scratch the plugs I put in they are garbage and I should use the ngk ones but were pregaped , should I get some use out of them? also the kid who I got it from didnt have the MAF pluged into the computer he had it on the intake , maybe an evo intake? Without it plugged in the bov would make me stall from rpm drops now I can slam the rpms down and not kill myself pulling onto a road or in a parking lot. This is the tuning software.....

MAF Translator 2G3S
Software Rev 1.3

Kit Contents
1-MAF Translator
1-Male spade terminal
1-TAP connector
1-instruction manual

Introduction:
The MAF Translator is a conversion interface to allow the use of late model GM Mass AirFlow (MAF) sensors on Second Generation Mitsubishi DSM (Eclipse,Talon,Laser) and “3S” (3000/Stealth) vehicles. The late model GM MAF sensors offer lower intake restriction than stock which boosts horsepower and improves turbo response. Inside the Translator there are several user adjustments which permits tuning of the airflow signal to the ECU (Engine Control Unit). Increasing or decreasing the airflow signal sent to the ECU will cause the ECU to deliver more or less fuel to the engine. The controls in the Translator allow adjustments under different operating conditions (idle, cruise, boost) to allow the tuner to tune for optimum horsepower. The Translator also has a Fuel Cut Limiter to prevent the ECU from cutting off fuel delivery at high boost, and an AUX adjustment for controlling fuel differently when a trigger wire is energized (to compensate for other fueling equipment such as N2O, Propane, or Alcohol injection)


Installation on a 2G DSM and 3S
The Translator is a straightforward plug-in installation. Follow these steps:

1. Remove the factory AirFilter/MAS, unplugging the wiring harness.
2. Install the new Air Filter on the new MAF.
3. Install the MAF+Filter in place of the original AirFilter/MAS. Some MAFs will require an adapter or a different pipe to the turbo. Orient the new MAF such that the internal divider is vertical.
4. Plug the Translator MAF plug into the new MAF making sure the latch engages correctly.
5. Use the supplied TAP and SPADE connectors to connect the white Translator wire to a TACH signal.
The best place to get this signal is the white wire found at:
3K/ Stealth ECU 91-93 pin 101, 94-95 pin 58, 96-97 pin 51, 98-99 pin 45 , Power transistor pin 5.

2G DSM ECU pin 58 or Power Transistor pin 4.
Route this wire AWAY from spark plug and injector wires.
6. Plug the Translator into the vehicle wiring harness. This plug is not a perfect fit so some patience is required to ensure that the plug mates correctly and no pins are pushed out. Ensure the connectors mate fully. Ensure the PINK wire from the Translator lines up with the RED wire in the vehicle harness.
7. Locate the Translator box in a location that is away from direct heat or water spray/splash/drip. Wrapping the plugs in electrical tape is suggested. Vehicle harness tape (high temperature) is the best for this.
8. Remove the Translator cover (4 screws), When the vehicle is Keyed-On, the 2 LEDs in the Translator will turn on for about 1 sec then go back off.


Controls:
The Translator has the following controls:
MODE SWITCH – a 4 section “dip switch” for setting the basic vehicle/translator parameters.
BASE – this 16 position (0-F) dial is used to set the general airflow scaling. This adjustment affects the entire operating range and is generally used to match the Translator and MAF to the selected injector size.
IDLE – This 16 position (0-F) dial is used to adjust the airflow signal during engine idle conditions. It can also be used to compensate for modified PCV (crankcase vent), fuel pressure setups.
MID - This 16 position (0-F) dial is used to adjust the airflow signal during moderate acceleration conditions. This mode is active between 1 and 8 psi boost (approximate)
WOT – (WOT=WideOpenThrottle) This 16 position (0-F) dial is used to adjust the airflow signal during heavy acceleration conditions. This mode is active above 8 psi boost (approximate)
AUX - This 16 position (0-F) dial is used to adjust the airflow signal during heavy acceleration conditions when the purple TRIGGER wire is activated. This mode is active above 8 psi boost (approximate)

Green LED
OFF = idle
DIM = Part throttle/cruise
ON = MID
Flashing = The Translator has detected a loss of RPM signal.
Red LED
OFF = No WOT modes are operating
DIM= WOT mode
ON = WOT mode and AUX Trigger is activated.
The Red LED will blink when the controls are adjusted to indicate the unit accepted the adjustment

Initial setup:
Set the MODE switch to match the vehicle configuration.

MODE SWITCH: set as follows
1 – OFF for 3” MAF(DSM) ON for 3.5” MAF(DSM)
1 – OFF for 3.5” MAF(3/S) ON for 3.75” MAF(3/S)
2 – OFF for a 2G DSM vehicle ON for a 3000GT / Stealth vehicle
3 – OFF for NO Fuel Cut Limiter, ON to PREVENT FUEL CUT
4 – OFF for Flat AUX fuel control, ON for Contoured AUX fuel mode.

Set the BASE dial according to the table to match the installed injectors.
If the vehicle ECU is equipped with a ‘CHIP’ that compensates for larger
injectors, then calculate the BASE setting as follows.

% change = (1 - (Injector size of ECU / Injector size installed) * 100

eg. Stock DSM = 450, 550’s installed 1-(450/550) *100 = 19%
(the Translator must be set to 20% lean for 550’s. The BASE 4 setting is for 550’s)

BASE Dial: set to match injectors and fuel system.
Dial Setting % flow change Injector DSM Injector 3/S Dial Setting % flow change Injector DSM Injector 3/S
0 0 Stock (450) Stock (360) 8 -40% 750 600
1 -5% 475 380 9 -45% 820 650
2 -10% 500 400 A -50% 900 720
3 -15% 525 425 B -55% 1000 800
4 -20% 550 450 C -60% 1100 900
5 -25% 600 480 D -65% 1250 1025
6 -30% 650 525 E +10% 400 325
7 -35% 700 550 F +5% 425 340





Idle, Mid, WOT, and AUX all follow the following table.

Dial Setting % flow change Dial Setting % flow change
0 0 8 35%
1 5% 9 -35%
2 10% A -30%
3 15% B -25%
4 20% C -20%
5 25% D -15%
6 30% E -10%
7 35% F -5%


Tuning and Adjustment
The user must have access to some feedback tools. Although rough tuning can be accomplished by the seat-of-the-pants method, a Scantool is extremely valuable in determining the best settings of the Translator. The ECU does not update its learned fuel trim values all the time and a perceived change could be learned out once the fuel trim updates activate. Some amount of drive-time must be allowed so the ECU can adjust to the changes.

Begin with the BASE setting selected for the vehicle configuration. The BASE setting must be accomplished first since the BASE correction factor is always active. Check the fuel trim at steady road-load cruise (35-45 mph) once the ECU has had some time to adjust. The trim should be between 90% and 110%. Use the “Fuel Trim” for tuning, the “O2 trim” is misleading since it is scaled differently and does not track the required fuel tuning very well. Once the BASE setting is correct, leave it alone and adjust the other dials to accomplish your desired tuning.

Most cars will run very well with the BASE tuned correctly and no other changes. If there are vacuum leaks, the IDLE dial may need adjustment to bring the idle fuel trim into the center of its range. Conversely, a rich idle caused by injectors can be tuned out with the IDLE dial. If the fuel trim is ‘low’ (less than 90%) turn the IDLE dial counter-clockwise to correct it. The dial adjusts about 5% per ‘click’.

The MID dial is adjusted to tune the fuel delivery during mid-throttle operation, 1-8 psi boost. By turning the dial counter clockwise the fuel mixture can be leaned out to enhance turbo spool-up. Leaning the fuel mixture can lead to detonation if octane is insufficient. Turning the dial so lean that the O2 sensor shows less than .500 volts will result in reduced performance. The optimum, setting is somewhat car/configuration/octane dependent. Running the highest octane available is the best way to ensure optimum performance.

The WOT dial is used to adjust the fuel delivery at full throttle. . By turning the dial counter-clockwise the fuel mixture can be leaned out to increase horsepower. Leaning the fuel mixture can lead to detonation if octane is insufficient. Turning the dial so lean that the O2 sensor shows less than .800 volts can cause excessive detonation. The optimum, setting is somewhat car/configuration/octane dependent. Running the highest octane available is the best way to ensure optimum performance.


The AUX dial is used to tune fuel delivery when the AUX Trigger wire is energized. The AUX setting is ADDED TO the WOT setting. If WOT is –5% and AUX is –5%, the when the Trigger wire is energized, the total adjustment is –10%. When the MODE 4 switch is ON (Contoured AUX mode) the fuel adjustment is corrected with the RPM signal to more closely match a “fixed-delivery fuel modifier”. Examples include Alcohol injection, Propane injection, N2O injection. For Alcohol and Propane, the AUX dial should be set in the lean range to compensate for the ‘fuel’ being added. Connect the purple wire so it will be energized when the Alcohol/Propane system is activating. For Nitrous Oxide, the AUX dial should be set in the rich range begin, and leaned out only as the tuning progresses to ensure no detonation occurs. Connect the purple wire so it will be energized when the Nitrous system is activating.




A note about tuning WOT fuel delivery: Detonation (ping, or spark knock) is the enemy of every engine. This is ESPECIALLY true of turbocharged and supercharged engines. Occasional detonation of pump gas is not unusual. Heavy detonation on pump gas, or any detonation on race gas indicates a problem. Continued operation under these conditions will result in broken parts. Head gaskets, pistons, and bearings all take a tremendous beating when a boosted engine detonates. Avoid detonation under all circumstances.
The Translator is a tool to adjust fuel delivery and increase the performance of your vehicle. Like any tool it can be misused and can cause damage. Proper use of the Translator (using a scantool for tuning) will enhance the vehicle performance and owner enjoyment. Ramchargers is not liable for misuse of the Translator and any engine damage caused by its use or misuse.


Troubleshooting:
If the installation and tuning does not progress as the steps indicate, the translator signals can be checked according to the following table.

Wires to MAF sensor:
Pink - +12 volts
Yellow - MAF frequency signal
Black – ground (0 volts)

Wires to Vehicle:
Pink - +12
Green – Translator frequency signal
Black – Ground (0 volts)
Brown – ATS (Air temperature signal, fixed at 80 degrees)
Gray – BARO (Barometric pressure signal, fixed at 3.9 volts)
White – RPM signal, connected to CAS sensor.

No LED blink at key on: check power feed to Translator, check connections, check fuse.

Green LED is blinking: If no RPM signal is present and the MAF signal is 50 grams/sec or higher (for .5 sec) then the Translator switches to ‘backup mode’. In Backup Mode, the dial selection is according to the following table:
IDLE < 10 grams/sec airflow IDLE < 10 grams/sec airflow
DSM: MID > 65 grams/sec airflow 3/S MID > 85 grams/sec airflow
WOT > 120 grams/sec airflow WOT > 150 grams/sec airflow

The engine will run perfectly well in backup mode, Contoured AUX mode will not work though.

 

[deweese46]

If the person didnt know what he was doing it probly needs to be tuned or something isnt hooked up right.Ngk plugs are the best thing to run in it.If you are venting into the autoshper and you dont have a tune done that also could be causing it.When somebody heavly modifies a car and dont know what they are doing you could have alot of problems.

 

[tsunari]

Sounds like if the ECU was throwing a misfire code and it was running like garbage (less than all 4 cylinders?), then it's most likely something to do with the ignition system. Put some NKG BPR6ES gapped at .028" in there, check your plug wires for damage, check the coil pack for damage, and make sure the coil igniter is plugged in. Physically check that the harness is plugged in . . . I've had it *look* like it was plugged in, but it had vibrated loose just enough to cause a headache (stumbling, misfire, etc . . .)

Start with that and report back.

Oh yeah . . . and put everything else back the way it was when you bought it. If it was driving fine you you purchased it . . . unless something broke, it should still be fine setup the was it was (most likely).

 

[badhabits]

I got the ngk plugs in it now , no misfires yet. I will have to get a fuel system tune with the MAFT. I am thinking he might of had 550 injectors in thats why it runs like garbage when I try to tune it to 450. (feel free to make a house call if you live in the cleveland area) Also The mysterious night turned out to be there were no teeth on the v-belt that had the altinator, crank, and idle pulley. so it wasnt charging.

 

[tsunari]

I am thinking he might of had 550 injectors in thats why it runs like garbage when I try to tune it to 450.

You might be able to take one out and look at the markings on the side of it to determine what you actually have.