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Custom Fuel Lines

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Black94DSM said:
So a 10 micron is what is needed for our cars? If so here is a cheap route to go, its made my Edelbrock so i know its good. And its got barb fittings on it for the ease of installation. How do you think this would fair to the other high dollar versions ?


From your Summit Link:
Maximum Fuel Pressure (psi): 10

It would work great until you turned your key to ON ROFL

Seriously though, most of the low-cost filters you see in Summitt/JEGs are for carbourated cars. You need a high flow filter with 10micon filter that will support at least 80psi pressures :dsm:
 
[homer_voice] Do'h [/homer_voice]

Wow i totally missed that in the discription. ROFL That could be pretty darn bad eh, LOL.

But yeah i was just looking for something cheap. IMO i would only run the Aeromotive stuff, they are roughly 100 bucks for the filter.
 
DSM90AWD said:
The Braided SS lines are 2x the thickness of the metal equivelants, what makes you think it would be easier to route?

A $9 tubing bender can make 90* bends in the metal line all day. Try that on a braided line without kinking :dsm:

And if you don't like the way you routed it, you can move the braided line without rebending. If the solid line was so great, you'd see it used more. For the average guy, working with flexible line is going to make the job much easier.

But to each their own.
 
I created a steel 3/8" hardline from the tank to the firewall without too much trouble. My fuel filter is a $10 job from AutoZone that was made for a certain GM car (don't remember which) that has 3/8" 45* flare inlets and outlets. From there, I bought a 45* to -6 AN flare adapter, and ran braided SS hose to the rail using a fitting from SBR.

Total cost of the fuel lines and fittings from pump to rail was about $50-60.
 
ECLIPSE4x4 said:
Whats the cost of rigid line and where can you buy it?

In order to upgrade to an -8an hardline you would also have to buy a tube flarer(sp) and also the end fittings correct?
You can buy either Summit brand Stainless, Steel and Aluminum line up to 5/8" or Russell Aluminum line up to 1/2".

You would need the 37* flaring tool if using the tube nuts/sleeves (Summit has one for $29) or if using the Aluminum lines, Russell has special compression fittings which are much simpler to install (don't need to flare) :dsm:
 
Has anybody tried using the 5/8 hardline? I've been considering it because the cost is a lot less than stainless braided line. It seems like it would be hard to work with. It comes in a roll and I just can't imagine it being very flexible. I'd be afraid of kinking it.
 
5/8" line would be -10 AN. That is a lot of line. Most guys on here run the 3/8" (-6 AN) or 1/2" (-8 AN). The 3/8" line can run over 1 gal/min at pressure. What is your setup?
 
Did'nt see anyone else mention it, but in the past when trying to put say brand "A" fitting onto brand "B" braided hose fitment issues would come up. I was told that there are slight differences in each brand. Anyone else have this problem?

5/8 line is overkill and you'll be pushing the limits of the pump to keep pressure up at high demand.
 
GVR4592 said:
It seems like it would be hard to work with. It comes in a roll and I just can't imagine it being very flexible. I'd be afraid of kinking it.
The 5/8" line woudl be wayyy overkill. Dont' think Shepherd uses more than -8AN (1/2") lines and he's over 1000whp.

Aluminum lines can be bent easily with your hands, though Summit sells a $9 bending tool .

The other nice think about the hardlines is they give you enough (25ft) for the return, or to do multiple cars (hell split the cost with a friend). I'm definitely going to go this route once my other "projects" are paid off ;) :dsm:
 
gixrman said:
Did'nt see anyone else mention it, but in the past when trying to put say brand "A" fitting onto brand "B" braided hose fitment issues would come up. I was told that there are slight differences in each brand. Anyone else have this problem?
I've been mixing Aeroquip, Earls, and XRP brand fittings and hose for years, and I've never had any problems. I usually only use Aeroquip hose and fittings, but I have mixed and matched all brands in the past.

Some fittings are only made for certain kinds of hose. If you are having problems with fitment, my guess is that the hose that you're using, is not made for the fittings that you're using. Judging from experience, I highly doubt that the problem lies within mixing brands/manufacturers.
 
99gst_racer said:
I've been mixing Aeroquip, Earls, and XRP brand fittings and hose for years, and I've never had any problems. I usually only use Aeroquip hose and fittings, but I have mixed and matched all brands in the past.

Some fittings are only made for certain kinds of hose. If you are having problems with fitment, my guess is that the hose that you're using, is not made for the fittings that you're using. Judging from experience, I highly doubt that the problem lies within mixing brands/manufacturers.

True, I believe I was using Russell fittings with Earl's hose and it was just way to tight (its just what I had at the time) since then been using the same brand for both.

When I ran my fuel lines I used the Summit 1/2" aluminum line and used a alternator pulley to form the bends, then used tube nuts and sleeves to make the connections to the briaded hose. The hardest part was fishing the braided hose down the firewall past the cross member.
 
gixrman said:
True, I believe I was using Russell fittings with Earl's hose and it was just way to tight (its just what I had at the time) since then been using the same brand for both.
Come to think of it, I have never used any Russell products. I sell it, but I don't stock much, and I believe they are a little more expensive than the competition. So, I guess I cannot comment on the fitment of Russell being used with other brands.

gixrman said:
.....and used a alternator pulley to form the bends.....
That's McGyver! :D :rocks:
 
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