creamy color under oil cap

[KKneipper]

i just opened my oil cap and found a milky cream colored fluid on the under side of the cap. its thick and looks like coffee does when you add a decent amount of creamer to it. i know that when coolant and oil mix it makes that color, but the head gasket was just replaced about 5000 miles ago, by a shop (not by myself in my garage). also, when i checked my dipstick all that showed up was clean oil. checked the coolant and it was green. the overflow bottle didn't have any oil in it either. this milky shit seems to be contained to the under side of the cap. the inside of the valve cover seems to be clean. i'm about due for an oil change, but i've never seen oil turn milky from just being 3000 miles old.

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any ideas?

 

[jjrock5]

It could be condensation. That happens a lot on Chrysler engines like Jeeps, and Dodges. Also in VW/Audi.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Most common cause is the seal on the cap is old and letting moisture past and it's turning the oil on the cap creamy. If you want to pull the valve cover to check the underside of it.

 

[KKneipper]

i just pulled the o-ring from my oil cap and applied rtv paste under it, then replaced the o ring. this was about 2000 miles ago. it seems like its getting a tight seal, mainly because the reason for me doing so was because oil was leaking out of the cap and building up on the valve cover. the valve cover is still dry. it has been extremely cold here lately (-12 last night)... could that maybe be a cause? i'm just really hoping that the shop that did the head gasket did it right and didn't skimp on it, because it was replaced with a previous owner and i'm pretty sure that they wouldn't warranty it after it's switched ownership twice.

 

[blackGSX2g]

This happens in the winter when you get more condensation in your oil. After you run it for awhile and fully warm it up, most of the moisture will be removed from your oil and it should go away.

Is your PCV system working properly?

 

[romeen]

I agree that it is most likely water/condensation and maybe some of the other products of blow-by mixing with the oil.

Are you using an unsealed oil catch can or a breather filter as part of your PCV system?

For a couple years I ran an unsealed can per the RRE instructions (PCV removed) and I would get that all the time. I switched back to the stock configuration and the problem immediately went away.

 

[KKneipper]

i noticed that there is a line of that shit all along the inside of valve cover gasket, so i'm going to order the new gasket and wait til monday when it comes in to pull the valve cover. just ordered a new gasket and it should be here on monday. i do not have a catch can, only because i've heard that the product code is for an old ford truck. if anyone has the product code for it, i would love to obtain it, because i've noticed that i have a little bit of oil in my air intake piping and that should fix it.

 

[romeen]

i noticed that there is a line of that shit all along the inside of valve cover gasket, so i'm going to order the new gasket and wait til monday when it comes in to pull the valve cover. just ordered a new gasket and it should be here on monday. i do not have a catch can, only because i've heard that the product code is for an old ford truck. if anyone has the product code for it, i would love to obtain it, because i've noticed that i have a little bit of oil in my air intake piping and that should fix it.

I'm not sure what you mean. No catch can is used from the factory.

Any container that has fittings for a hose coming in and another for a hose going out should work. Some are vented (mini air filter on top). For a daily driver I would recommend a sealed can. The container should have the air fittings near the top, a drain (usually a stopcock) at the bottom and, ideally, be loosely packed with some type of filtering media (copper pot scrubbers, etc) or have internal baffles. How fancy you want it to look and thus how much money you want to spend is up to you.

First, confirm that your PCV system is set up properly. The fitting on the passenger side of the valve cover should have a hose running to the air intake pipe (pre-turbo) and the PCV valve (rear side of valve cover) should have a hose running to the intake manifold.

 

[KKneipper]

I'm not sure what you mean. No catch can is used from the factory.

First, confirm that your PCV system is set up properly. The fitting on the passenger side of the valve cover should have a hose running to the air intake pipe (pre-turbo) and the PCV valve (rear side of valve cover) should have a hose running to the intake manifold.

what i mean is that, no, i'm not running a catch can. the pcv system is set up properly, and the only reason i was really going to put one on was because i've noticed a little bit of oil in my intake pipe. and i've heard that the one that works best is actually made for a ford truck, but i haven't really looked too hard for one.

 

[romeen]

I've never heard of the Ford part. I'll have to keep an eye out at the U-Pull.

My sealed catch can between the VC and intake pipe completely eliminated the oily residue I was getting in the LICP and inlet of the intercooler.

 

[xhackerekx]

It could be condensation. That happens a lot on Chrysler engines like Jeeps, and Dodges. Also in VW/Audi.

i have 2 audis with 2 different engine and never have "cream" under oil cap just my dsm have when i blow engine

 

[4g63Turtle]

I also had yellow gunk around my oil cap, and found out it was from coolant leaking into my oil.

 

[rdejardin777]

condensation happens with ALOT of different engines. if its not on the dipstick dont worry about it at all ifs its only on the bottom of the cap. i am a car dealer and see this quite often actually.

 

[debbie]

I’ve heard that if you only do short journeys this can happen? Also i have a DD that’s had this for 2 years now and its still going strong so I wouldn’t worry about it Oh and i recently changed the oil and it had now creamy substance in it at all.

 

[blackGSX2g]

I’ve heard that if you only do short journeys this can happen?

True, because the oil never gets a chance to warm up and allow the moisture to fully evaporate.

 

[Boiler2]

I have this same issue and have not seen any problems arising from it. It is condensation and the same creamy stuff comes out of my catch can. It is worse without a PCV as stated. For those of you with leaking or old oil caps without proper seal, you can run 2 rubber seals under the cap for a tighter fit.

 

[KKneipper]

I also had yellow gunk around my oil cap, and found out it was from coolant leaking into my oil.

if coolant is leaking into your oil, i'm pretty sure its caused by a blown head gasket. my car doesn't overheat and i'm not having any of it show up on my dipstick, so i think im safe as far as the head gasket goes. i do only work about a mile from my house, so i really only make short trips. but i do let my car warm up for 5-10 minutes before i leave, so i would think that the oil should get warmed up enough to solve that, but it doesn't.

 

[KKneipper]

I pulled my valve cover off last night, and there was no sign of that creamy shit. yay! i replaced the whole gasket set, and upon putting the valve cover back on, i managed to crack the top of it. i'm pissed. i didn't over tighten the bolts, so i'm wondering if it might have been the fact that it was cold outside.

i don't have the money for a new valve cover at the moment, so is there a sealant i can buy that will hold me over until i get the money?

 

[willydsm]

JB weld is the only thing i can think of for a temp fix. as for cracking cause it was cold doubt it , it would have had to been in the negitive like -20 for something like that to happen.

 

[KKneipper]

jb weld it is then. thanks man. it was only about 25 deg. last night, but i don't know why else it would have cracked. any idea what the actual torque specs on those 10mm bolts should be? i only tightened em to about 50 ft. lbs. i found a new valve cover on ebay for 100 bucks, so i'm gonna order one.

 

[blackGSX2g]

i only tightened em to about 50 ft. lbs.

Wow Hulk, take it easy there. I'm suprised you only cracked one corner and didn't strip any threads doing that. Torque specs are 2-3 ft/lbs for those. Most ft/lb torque wrenches won't be accurate that low on the scale, so it would be best to get one made for in/lbs.

 

[KKneipper]

well, 50 ft lbs is just an estimate. i would imagine it was about that much... probably wrong though. i just got em down finger tight, then about a 1/4 past that on a 10 in. socket handle.

 

[willydsm]

remember to start in the middle of the cover and work your way out in a cross pattern.

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

totally normal.

 

[KKneipper]

i just borrowed my neighbor's torque wrench, and all of my bolts are steady at 11 ft. lbs... looks like i wrenched em too tight. and thanks for the tip to start in the middle of the cover. i just started on one side and worked them around a little at a time. so when i get my new cover, i'll know what to do... wish me luck.